How do ocean waves get big?

Question

How do ocean waves get big?

Answer 1

with increase in velocity, the wave amplitude rises.

thnks

Answer 2

The factors that determine the size of a wave are:

speed of wind

the length of time the wind blows

the fetch (distance the wave travels)

The water molecules in a wave move in a circular motion.  As the wave approaches the shore.  The bottom of the circular wave motion touches the ocean floor, and the wave begins to "rise".  The bottom of the wave will drag on the ocean floor causing the bottom part of the wave to slow down due to friction.  Eventually, the top part of the wave gets far enough ahead of the bottom part, that the top part topples over forming a breaker.

Answer 3

the energy that is in the water is caused, by tidal forces from the moon, temperature diffrehnces casued by uneven heating by the sun, the earths rotation and the wind.

When a wave is out in middle of the ocean the energy is spread out and the wave while powerful has a lot of depth to work in, so most waves stay small.

When a wave comes on shore the land rises giving no place for the energy to go, so the water rides up high and comes crashing down on shore