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How do you airbrush a helmet?

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  1. If the helmet (motorcycle helmet for example) already has a smooth finish, then the only thing you will need to do is tape off any exposed rubber or metal fitting using a quality masking tape.  Once you've taped off any parts you don't want painted, use a solvent such as lacquer thinner and a soft cotton diaper to "tack" off any dust, fingerprints or grease.  Do this in a well-ventilated area, as the fumes from lacquer thinner are not only flammable, but harmful to your lungs.

    Obtain a high-quality spray primer (one can should do) and shake it well.  Set the helmet on a small table, covered with newspaper.  Using broad, even strokes, apply the primer to the helmet in a thin coat.  Keep the can about 8 inches from the work surface.  Allow this coat to dry for about 10 minutes.
    Then apply successive coats until the entire helmet is covered evenly.  Don't hold the primer can in one place to long, as this may cause a paint-run.  Allow the primer to dry and cure overnight.  Try to paint on a warm day as cold surfaces don't allow the primer to adhere well.

    If you have a design in mind (such as flames), try to sketch your design out first.  Use colored pencils or colored markers on the sketch to help you determine the best color scheme.

    Obtain a roll of "clear" vinyl shelf liner.  Many airbrush artists use "frisket", which is a thin vinyl film.  I use shelf liner because it works just like frisket and is a lot cheaper.  A 25 foot roll is only about $3.00.

    Obtain two rolls of 1-inch masking tape.

    The clear vinyl shelf liner and the masking tape will be used to "mask off" your design onto the helmet.

    If you want a "base color" then a good acrylic enamel will work.  The best finish would be obtained by used an automotive spray gun, such as a Devilbiss, but these are very expensive and require alot of practice in order to apply the paint evenly.  So, back to the spray cans.  Purchase a high-quality aerosol paint (such as Krylon).  Use whatever color you would like -- they even sell a few metallics.  Apply the base color on top of your primed helmet using the same spraying technique.  Several coats work best.  Allow the coats to harden.

    Apply the masking tape to define the areas you want to "block off" that will create your design.  You can cut the masking tape after you've applied it with an XActo knife.  The blades are very sharp, so be careful.  Only apply light pressure so as to not cut into your base color.  Once you've completed cutting an area and are ready to airbrush it, take the very tip of the blade and begin peeling off the cut areas to expose the design element or shape.

    For the airbrush colors, purchase a beginners set of Createx airbrush inks.  The best airbrush to use for a beginner would be a Paache AB double action airbrush with a syphon cup.  Select your overspray color from the set and load your airbrush cup (about halfway) and set your air pressure at about 20-30 psi.  Make sure the needle is clean and unbent.  Test your airbrush spray pattern on a piece of blank cardstock.  Once you've adjusted your pressure and are comfortable, begin applying your overspray color onto the area you've just removed from the helmet.  Work carefully and use your arm to apply the overspray color.  You can "feather" the color by simply moving away from the helmet.  This will create a "gradient" effect.

    To add more interest, clean out the syphon cup and load a second color.  Now you can experiment with "color transition".  This takes practice.  Start the second overspray color at the opposite side of your design shape.  Spray rather solidly, then taper off to a feather into the other color.  Allow these coats to dry and carefully remove the masking tape.  If you've color coordinated correctly, your design element will contrast nicely against the base color you've selected.  As long as you allow the coats to harden, you can always tape over an existing shape or up next to it to create other elements.

    You could also attempt "freehand" airbrushing onto the base color, but this is an acquired skill that takes a steady hand and keen eye.  Practice makes perfect.

    After you have airbrushed your design onto the helmet and are satistfied with the results, allow a day or two for all the paint to harden and cure, then "clear coat" the entire helmet with a high-quality clear enamel, allow to cure, remove all masking tape from the unpainted helmet parts and hit the road.

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