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How is steel stud framing done? May I know procedures?

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How is steel stud framing done? May I know procedures?

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  1. Short answer-Lay out the wall line, shoot a piece of track down (most metal stud framing is done on concrete floors), plumb a point up at each end, snap another line, attach the top track, and fill in with studs.  Stop the track short of all door openings, unlike wood framing where you run the plate through and cut it out later.  Corners are made by overlapping the track and cutting one side back to allow the drywall to slip through.  Fill in the wall with studs at 16" on center.  Your cuts do not have to be terribly precise, since you have 1-1/4" of play in the top track.  There are several ways to treat door openings, depending on the type of door being used.  If one wall intersects another, leave the track of the wall that butts in 3/4" short of the other wall.  This allows the drywall again to run through.  After the first wall is rocked, a stud called a slip stud is pushed tight against it, then a few screws are run through the back side of the drywall to hold it in place.  There is a lot more to this, but this gives you an idea how it's done.


  2. They use a 3 sided sheet metal "stud". They seem flimsy at first but are quite ridgid once the drywall is installed. Problem is after construction. Trying to hang items is a hassle. You also need to install wooden backerboards for things like bath sinks to be hung on.

  3. I'd give the 10 to Sensible, no offense to any others. I work at what seems to be a never ending task, remediating a 40,000 sq. ft. building with steel studding.

      To more directly answer the Q as posted, I might suggest that the base support stud is shot into a concrete floor, OR on any wood based sustrate can be Screwed in, even with drywall screws, or self threading. Certainly in wall studs and drywall you could tap an area more resistent, creating a sloppy s***w, driving hole.

      I encounter them installed with just POP rivets in the verticals, though that would would likely be less substantial than I'd advise, and s***w heads are impressed from behind into secured drywall anyway.

      UMMMMMM,,, backing up. I/ we, all have assumed so far you mean Studding. I, nor anyone else considered (with your lack of detail, STEEL used in framing out a structure using anything relating to "I" beams, etc.

    Steven Wolf

    Just my two "sense"

  4. First you need to know 6"wide studs or 25/8' thick! Then you need to lay out your bttm. track where you want your wall then put in the two end studs fasten them to the top track then level the studs so wall is level and fasten the top track ! then fill in every 2' or 16"!!

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