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How often shall i feed my leopard geckos?

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I have a pair of leopard geckos i feed them on crickets which i dust occassioanaly with with a vit and calcium powder they are both very healthy but i try to feed every night and sometimes they dont eat should i reduce this to every two days? x x

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  1. ask the pet store workers!


  2. http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-care...

    Leopard geckos are insectivores and the most common items used in captivity are crickets, mealworms, superworms, silkworms and small cockroaches as a staple diet. The occasional pinkie mouse (only a few days old) and waxworms can be given as a treat. Pinkie mice should only be given to full grown adults and are excellent for breeding females. Not all individuals will eat them but the majority prefer them live. Feed waxworms sparingly as they can become very addictive to geckos and not as healthy because they are very fattening. Only feed as much as the gecko will consume in a given feeding. Depending on the size of the gecko this can be anywhere from 4-8 crickets. Left over prey running in the cage can cause stress and the gecko might get nibbled on by hungry insects. Babies should be fed everyday with adults being fed every other day. If you’re feeding mealworms, superworms or anything else that can be contained in a dish they can be left with the animal 24/7 without harm. The gecko will only eat what it wants. As a general rule the prey item should be no larger than half the width of the geckos head to prevent choking.

    Gutloading - Make sure to gutload all food items for 24 hours prior to feeding. Gutloading is feeding very nutritious/high quality foods to prey prior to feeding to your animals. These can include but not limited to fruits, vegetables and grains. There are also many commercially available products that are in powder form. I make and use Pro Gutload for all my feeders. Gutloading will ensure a healthier insect and in the long run a healthier gecko. Remember your geckos are what they eat.

    Supplementation - Calcium and vitamins are essential for reptiles. There are many different products on the market but I use and recommend osteo-form, Rep Cal without vitamin D3 and vionate as my calcium/vitamin supplements. The most common way of offering this to them is by dusting the prey just before feeding. This can be done with the “shake and bake” method. Using a plastic bag or some type of container, add a small amount of calcium/vitamin supplement. Add a few food items and gently shake the bag until they are covered in calcium. When dusting crickets make sure to feed them right away because they clean the calcium off. They are now ready for your geckos to eat. If you are dish feeding mealworms and superworms you can add a small amount of vionate and calcium to the dish.

    Babies should get dusted prey items at least 4 times a week but preferably at every feeding and adults 2-3 times per week. Egg laying females should also get dusted food items at every feeding as they are absorbing large amounts of calcium to produce the egg shells. For all ages dust with calcium that contains vitamin D3 along with the vitamin supplement once a week. I also provide a dish of pure calcium (that contains no vitamin D3) that is left in the gecko cage 24/7. If the gecko wants more calcium they can l**k what they want. You may not see your geckos doing this but believe me they are. Lack of supplementation will eventually lead to MBD (Metabolic bone disease) and can cause serious problems with reptiles that can lead to death. Some symptoms include very weak and lethargic animals that will display soft limbs and bones.

    Water - Offer a dish of fresh water at all times. I use a 2oz or 4oz portion cup for my babies and adults. Keeping the water fresh is very important so it should be changed regularly. Water that is stagnant is a breeding ground for bacteria and can cause illness.

  3. Feed them 3-4 times a week.  They can have all they can eat in 15 minutes.  Dust the crickets before feeding with calcium, and once a week use a multivitamin powder instead.  More details here:

    http://www.drgecko.com/feed.htm

  4. try some wax worms too they like those. or millworms just leave it in there and they will eat it wen they are hungry.

  5. Yes, i think you should reduce it just to save yourself the effort.

    Due to them being cold blooded their metabolism is much much slower than mammals and therefore they eat less often and take longer to digest the food.

    My leo is a big guy and a good eater - but he tends to not eat for upto a week sometimes, longer when he's shedding, and then eats loads of bugs in one sitting. He still poops every night though.

    I suggest that you reduce it to every other day, feeding as much as they will eat. If they still aren't very interested then increase it to every three days...

    You need to give them time to get hungry and adults typically eat less often then babies.

  6. Hi :)

    I have always fed mine 2-3 crickets each (sometimes 4) usually every 3 days. Hope this helps

  7. no just keep feeding them like u r now if they dont eat the crikets jut take them out they will eat wen they are hungry

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