How to I stop fearing big waves? (for surfers)?

Question

I bodyboard, and surf regularly. I'm comfortable with waves 4 foot and under (4 foot back), but if it gets much past that I can't seem to catch anything. Its not the power or danger, just size. Anyone got ideas?

Answer 1

If your saying 4 foot back (or swell), then your talking about a 12-15 foot face, that's pretty big.

Catching bigger waves is about putting yourself in the impact zone waiting for the waves, taking off later, and most of all enjoying it. I've known pro-surfers that aren't good big wave riders.

Essentially Hughes.yordadi below got it right. go out there and be ready to take the beating if you don't make it. Big waves in not as technically difficult as riding smaller waves but it does take a different level of commitment. You've got to want it till it hurts, cause it will. I don't think you've got that yet.  Slater as a kid going to the North Shore used to say "Every year he went up a foot in size" Thats a good way to look at it. But be smart, stupid and brave doesn't lend itself to a long life.

Answer 2

Max, there's lots more information that would make this easier to answer. How long have you been surfing? If you are pretty new, I guess I can understand the fear the thing. Yes you can get hurt, but get over it. Spend some more time in the water without ANY kind of board. Body surf, get slammed around by the waves on a big day, and you'll be surprised. It isn't that bad.

Your age could also be a factor. Like one of the other answerers said, you aren't afraid of the waves, your afraid of wiping out and getting slammed. Just try it, you'll survive.

Where do you surf? If there are only two or three days a years with big waves, just forget it and go fishing those day.

I guess I am the wrong kind of guy to answer this question, sorry.

Suck it up and go for it! You will never be able to ride big waves if you don't wipe out on big waves, every now and then. I know it looks scary looking off the top of the mountain of water, but paddle hard and stand up fast before you and your board aim for the bottom like a bullet. I know, I don't sound very sympathetic. Just remember many more people die every year from skiing than die from surfing. The odds are in your favor.

Answer 3

What are you afraid of then? Your question seems retarted.

Anyway, fear is a good thing. I'm afraid a lot out there, usually not in anything so small, but it only pushes me to go farther, to catch that wave and make it. My suggestion is use your fear to work for you.

Answer 4

Former World Champion CJ Hobgood said that to ride big waves, all you have to do is throw your balls over the lip and hope they're big enough to pull you down the face.

Answer 5

think. it's not the fear of the wave, it's the fear of getting hurt by the wave. but it's water. the worst that can happen is falling under for 5 seconds. and being jostled and flipped over a bit. and if you are still to scared to catch the wave, duck under it. no prob. lots of ppl are like you

Answer 6

look fear in the face and say "P***k you." that'll get you on a bigger wave.

Answer 7

It depends. Are you a long board sufer or short board surfer?

If you are a long boarder, you don't need to worry about big waves because most longs boards are meant for what you are most comfortable with.

If you are a short board surfer. All I can tell you is if you like 4 foot waves, don't worry. When I started surfin' back in the day. I started out short boarding on waves like 4 ft. It just takes some time to get used to. If you think you are man enough to try a big wave. Then go for it. If not, don't worry. Just do what you like to do.

Enjoy.

Answer 8

if you dont like big waves..then trust your instincts!!

Answer 9

John said it well,  and remember fear can be a rush when you can control the environment,  you can always get out of the water.  Surf with friends and you should be able to hold your breath for a solid minute or 1 1/2 before trying to handle the bigger waves.  The reason the pro's talk about big waves as harry,  is because the break they surf is on a reef with  only  6" of water covering razor sharp coral.   If there isn't a reef your pretty safe.

Answer 10

big waves scare everybody its how you handle the fear don't try to shoot down the face and rip a bottom turn pick a less aggressive line try to get to the middle of the face and fine a speedy line to keep you out in front of the juice get the feel then when your ready rip the **** out of it and don't forget to exit don't be greedy on big surf  and the other answer about instinct is a wise answer

Answer 11

keep calm dont worry