How to power this setup?

Question

I have 2 alpine type s components, 80w RMS 240peak. (currently being power by a 4 x 60 amp.)

I want to put in 2 10's (Pioneer TS-W257D2, 350w RMS-1000w max).

I'm thinking of powering the subs at around 500-600 rms mono amp.

1) I'm hoping someone can tell me how much power I can push without needing a cap or HO alt. (i have a 97 neon)

2) Give me some suggestion on how to power this system. I already have a 4x60 amp (if I am only using 2 channels will it draw 120 or 240 watts?) Is there a better option than 2 amps, 1 for the sub and 1 for the comps?

Answer 1

A cap doesn't provide more power so that's out anyway.

A capacitor is only good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nothing else. If the current isn't there, a cap won't help.

The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient.

If your alternator pushes around 75 amperes, you'll be fine.

Answer 2

1. As a General rule, for every 500 or so watts, you need about .5 farads  of capacitance, although in reality people usually use more. For example, Im pushing 320 watts to a signle 10 in my daily driver with no cap, and I feel like I could still use a small cap. When I crank it up to the "safe" limit with a song that has some hard hitting bass, I can see a slight dimming in my rear tail light and trunk lights.

2. Unless your amps channels are bridged, you are only using the power from one channel to each speaker. So even though your amp is 60x4, your only pushing 60 watts to each component set.

3. For subs, your best bet is a Class D amp. Your 4 channel is a class A/B. Class D amps do not produce signals quite as clean as a Class A/B, however they have the advantage to class A/B amps in that they convert a higher percentage of the power coming in into signal coming out, whereas a class A/B converts a lot of it into heat. The slightly deteriorated signal quality of a class D amp is ok for subs because the slight distortion is near impossible to detect, even by the most experienced of audiophiles. Most of the distortion will be noticed due to crappy components and other factors.

Why 2 10s? I run a single Jl 10w3 in in a sealed box in my DD with a JL amp pushing 320 watts @ 4 ohms RMS and it has plenty of bass. If you want bass in your car, a single high end 10 will be more then enough. If you want the wow factor to get people you drive by to stare, then go for 2 10's like you planned.

Jim