How to remove govner off yamaha pw 50?

Question

govner or restricter

Answer 1

Here's some stuff You can do,,it's all pretty easy.

Here's a PW50 Owners Manual--Free Download from Yamaha.

It explains/Shows you about some of the things to Derestrict.

http://www.yamaha-motor-europe.com/commu...

Use the pull down menu to select proper year model for your PW

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Here's the 2007 version,,,For Example---so we're on "same page"

http://ymenvom.nl/manuals/U5PG86E0.PDF

Ok,,,in That Particular manual on the Table of Contents page under Section "Instruments & Controls",

it lists "Speed Reduction and Power Limiter Plate"

Scroll to Section 3-1 and it shows about the "Speed Reduction"

Thats just a Throttle Stop s***w which is very easy to adjust.

It allows Throttle to be opened fully.

Here's a little better picture of what ya hafta fool with.

Item #11

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fic...

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Then back to the Manual,,,scroll to section 6-6

There you'll find "Removing the Power Reduction Plate".

Here's another Picture that may help

It's Item #2.

Be aware that Item # 2 in this view is shown as 1 single piece.

It's Actually 2 Pieces as shown in the Manual

You only remove the "Washer" with the Small Center Hole.

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fic...

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Ok,,,those 2 operations are the extent of the "OFFICIAL"

Restrictions.

2 More Simple things can be done.

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Under the Seat are 2 "black boxes"

One of those is the Ignition CDI Unit--it must stay in place.

The OTHER one is some kinda DooDad they call a "Control Unit".

It's part of the handlebar switch that does the OFF/Start/Run function.

Start & Run,,,both "run",,but are 2 different power levels

You can simply Unplug the Control Unit.

A Better plan is to Remove it & store it for safe-keeping until Resale/Trade-in time.

Pack some light grease or Vaseline in the Wiring Harness Plug to preserve it.

Here's more Artwork to ponder.

Item # 5 is the Control Unit>>REMOVE or just Unplug

Item #1 is the Ign CDI>>MUST REMAIN

Make Certain Ya get 'hold of the right one---Note the differences in Mounting,,Wiring connections etc.

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fic...

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Another thing to mess with is the Air Filter/Air Intake.

The Box itself is Constricted---it has too small an airflow entry.

Perhaps Easiest approach is the Replace the Entire original Air Box with an aftermarket unit.

Unipod or K&N Universal type slip-on filter

They are Cheap and Easy---$20 or less

Or,,,use a "hi-performance" Replacement filter element and Modify the Box's Inlet to allow more airflow.

The Original Filter Box has an unusual airflow path,,,it sorta makes a U-Turn.

You can simply add a few small holes.

They must be added to the "rear-half" of the Box

Here's a Picture of the Box

http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_image_popu...

Looking at Item #11--the "Front Cover",,,,Fresh Air Enters thru the Rectangle Snorkel at the Upper end of the Box.

It then Passes Straight thru the Rectangle Hole in the Filter element #13..

Once the Fresh Air is Thru that Pass-Thru Entry Hole,,,it Fills the Rear Cover #12.

The Engine/carb Then suck thru the Hose #16 and draws air Thru the Filter Media #13 from the Volume in the Rear Case.

Probably makes more sense to Look at the Parts than I'm able to explain it here.

The Idea is to get More Air INTO the Rear Cover 's Volume Area# 12,,,,,unhindered by the Snorkel and Pass-Thru Hole in the Filter Element.

A Couple 3/8"~1/2" Holes in the Upper SIDES of the Rear Cover#12 are Plenty of AirFlow.

(The Carb itself is only about a 1/2" bore)

Extra Intake Air makes a BIG difference,,,sounds like a lot more trouble to do than it really is.

It's well worth the small effort.

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ADD-ONS/ MODS beyond simply Derestricting

There are a gazillion Posibilities----all at Several $$$ Each.

So ya COULD spend Several Gazillion $$$.

Frankly,,it's NOT WORTH the expense.

NOT WORTH>>

a $150 Exhaust

a $150~250 Re-Gearing

a $100~200 Top End Modification

a $200~300 "Big Bore Kit"

Etc and so On.

PW's are marvelous lil' bikes.

But they are Very Highly Specialized as Beginner/Starter bikes.

They aren't adaptations of anything,,,but Originals designed specifically for their own niche.

No matter What,,,they will never be " YZ-80's"

Some folks DO take them to extremes,,,but Really its like trying to make a "Silk Purse from a Sow's Ear"

2 things that are Fairly Inexpensive,Easy,,,and dont turn the bike into a Frankenstein Machine are

1)Hi Performance Reed Valves,,,about $20 and You should be able to install them yourself

2)MAYBE,,,an increase in compression.

An Aftermarket Cyl Head to raise compression is $75~100 range.

To Have Your Existing Head Machined,,,$30~50

OR,,ya can do like we used to do in the early/mid 60's on small 2-Stroke Single's Cylinder Heads.

Surface them By Hand using wet/dry sandpaper taped to a flat surface.

they only need .010"~.020" material removed.

1/4~1/2mm.

Takes about 15~20 Minutes,,and less than $5 worth of sandpaper.

It REALLY peps-up the engine overall.

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Quick Recap,,in case You got lost in all the babbling spam

#1)Official De-Restriction

-a)Adjust Throttle Stop s***w

-b)Remove Washer from Exhaust

#2) UN-official De-Restriction

-a) Unplug the Control Box under the seat

-b) Upgrade and/or Modify the AirFilter Box

#3) Optional Performance Boosters

-a)Install some Hi-Performance Reeds,,like Boyesen,etc

-b)Raise the Compression---- a shade-tree Kitchen Countertop re-surfacing to remove a a Little bit of metal does plenty good enough & is almost "free"

Group # 1 & 2 are "Must Do",,,Free or Cheap and Very simple & Easy.

#3 is well worthwhile,,,but Optional

Good Luck,,hope that helps.

***CAUTION----All that stuff may not Sound or Seem very Dramatic,,,

But it DOES GREATLY Increase the Bike's Power and Speed compared to Fully Restricted Mode.

It WILL Surprise a Young Rider who is not expecting it,,,,it's like a whole 'nother bike.

Point A -to-B Time is shortened,,it's Lots Quicker.

And Stopping Distance is Lengthed substantially from the Speed Increase.

Not trying to be Scary,,it's NOT a Monster Beast---just making sure you're Aware it Will be Lots Different than a restricted one.

OK?

Have Fun!

Answer 2

Remove the exhaust pipe.

The restrictor is between the pipe and cylinder - remove it.

Answer 3

theres a chip that has to be removed