How to replace an old one-peice interior door frame?

Question

Sorry in advance if i use the wrong construction/hardware terms! My house is old, 1959, and the interior bedroom doorway frame thingee's (door jambs?) are solid wood, all one peice which are different than what you woould see in a more modern home, and very damaged. Do i remove the entire frame (i dont see another way to do it)....there is no way to pry off just the damaged area without damaging the entire frame....If I gut the doorway will it be ready for a pre-hung door in its new "raw" state? I dont want to cause anymore damage than is already there. Ive attached photos...thanks...

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c142/velvetskies_/doorframeone.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c142/velvetskies_/doorframetwo.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c142/velvetskies_/doorframe3.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c142/velvetskies_/doorframe4.jpg

Answer 1

Yes it looks pretty rough.

Ir you pry the casings off (the trim that covers the joint between the door frame and wall) The nails holding the door frame in the opening will be visible in the gap. I have a flat pry bar I use for this job. Here we call them wonderbars.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-515-12-...

You just put one end against the nails in the gap and give the other a good hit with a hammer. it will cut the nail for you.

It is best to used the bar from the door side when taking the casing off too, that way you do less damage to the wall around the frame.

If you want to used the trim again pull the finish nails out from the back and you can avoid damaging the face of it.

The cut off ends of nails in the wall framing that are left can be just driven in with the hammer.

Sometimes the very bottom of the door frame is trapped by the flooring. If it is a problem cut the door jambs about half way up.

A door's rough opening size is usually 2 inches wider than the door's finish size and an inch taller.

When installing the new door you might want some shim shingles to pack the gap full where you drive the nails to fasten it in the opening.

On the lock side I shim at the top bottom and at the lock.

On the hinge side I shim at the hinges, half way between them if there are only two and at the very top and bottom.

The only other thing I can think of is to check the wall thickness. Some of the older houses used lumber that is a bit larger than what we have now and you might have to add a strip of wood to the edge of a new frame to match the wall thickness.

good luck, wear your safety glasses.