How to replace putty around windows?

Question

does anyone know of a good website that would detail how to replace the putty around windows. the old putty is cracked and falling out, do i replace the whole lot or only the missing portions

Answer 1

GEt a 2 1/2 " putty knife, scrape out all the old putty and replace it all.   The other is drying up and the window will leak.     Then after the putty job, give it awhile(a week or month) and then paint over the frame with oil based paint.   It must be oil because the putty is oil based.  Use alkyd primer.  And let that dry for 2-4 days and then go over again with a second coat of enamel paint (primer will not stand up for years) but it has to go down before the enamel second coat.  The enamel second coat can be oil based or latex based.

Answer 2

You'll always be much better off replacing all of it.

If its already cracked and falling out in places, and once you're able to get rid of the rest of it, I'm sure you'll find that the wood of the muntins has become exposed to a bit of weather. Give it some new primer, if you can afford the time. The primer will need to dry before you can proceed with glazing. If the glass was rattling in the sash before you started working on it, you would really be doing the right thing to remove the glass, re-prime the sash and then lay the glass in the sash in a very thin bead of glazing putty with the glass held in place with glazier's points.

Get a can of "Dap 33" or similar glazing putty. Dig out a ball of it and either work it in your hands, or find a convenient place to warm it up to ninety-five to one hundred degrees so that it will work more smoothly. Roll a ball of putty out into a rope-like section, maybe a half inch in diameter and then take your putty knife in one hand, the rope of putty in the other and lay the putty along the rabbet for the glass and press it in there with the putty knife. You'll get better results if you roll it out into a long rope, instead of applying dabs of putty with the knife. The fact that you've already rolled it out will make it better able to form a continuous bead of putty which is important to seal out the weather.

So, get a continuous bead of putty going all the way around a pane of glass and then move on to the next one, and repeat the process until the window is "glazed" - i.e., it has glass all around and the glass is sealed in place with putty.

Now comes the finesse part. Have a rag, dampened with mineral spirits, on hand and wipe down the putty knife with it to lubricate the knife. Now work along the length of each side of the pane of glass and smooth your bead of putty so that it fills the relief for the filister, or rabbet - the cut-out relief where the glass fits, but do not put in too much putty so that you will see putty when you look outside through the window.

Continue this smoothing and make sure you don't have ragged edges in the putty where the putty meets the glass. A well lubricated knife will ensure a nice edge there, but don't put on too much mineral spirits or it will dissolve the putty. Work the corners until they look sharp right angles for a first-class job.

Once you're satisfied with your glazing, leave it alone for a a few days before painting.

Skip using latex glazing putty as you won't have the same working life and you won't be able to work the same finish or edges. If you use Dap 33, you'll want to paint with oil based paint.

*Edit/Update: pcbeachrat is quite mistaken. The word, "glazing" refers to the fitting out of something with glass. "Glazing" does not refer to the putty used to hold glass in a window frame, that is patently wrong. See definition: http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/g...

Glazing compound, such as Dap's "33", is very much a putty, but a particular putty formulated for the glazier's trade. Before there were commercially made glazing compounds, glaziers would make putty from linseed oil, calcium carbonate (gypsum, talc) and lead.

In the article pcbeachrat linked to, http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detai... mid-way down the page, in the "First Steps" section, it reads, "Putty - also known as glazing compound - is then used to seal the joint between glass and wood. It keeps the rain and drafts out."

Answer 3

The right way is to take all the old stuff off ant put new putty on it

Answer 4

It's best to go ahead and remove all the old putty otherwise you'll just have to do it again later when the older stuff starts falling out. The job looks cleaner when you use all new  'glazing putty' as it's called. I have just used Linseed oil ( brushing it on ) on the wood window frames after removing the old putty. The oil soaks in good and allows the glazing putty to stick better.

Answer 5

First of all you do not use putty..It is called.."Glazing'... Two totally different products even though they look similar...They now sell glazing in a tube just like caulking  for the inexperienced people to use....But yes the old should be dug out..and they have small metal "push points" that help hold the glass in..make sure to buy a small box of them to replace any rusted ones..They also make a "glazing tool to help with the application of the new glazing...The instructions will be on it.. This is what they look like..available at all hardware stores..

http://www.nextag.com/543926364p/zz2zB4z...

Heres an instructional with pictures on how to repair..notice at bottom on the material list..it says "glazing compound'...

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detai...

Heres pictures of different glazing compounds..they also have the stuff in the tube in this picture..

http://www.nextag.com/window-glazing-com...

Heres a picture of "push Points"

http://www.shop.com/+-a-buy+push+points-...

Answer 6

You have to chip off all putty and old paint as the new or old glass needs max. sticking power and then ,with fingers paste the new putty around window face and press firmly with glass.

Answer 7

hey--it s no easy task,,time consuming,,because you don't want to break the glass pane,,  or damage the frame,,,,  tools  needed --- small can of paint thinner,,,utility knife,,1 inch glazing knife,,hammer and small  chisel,,,remove as much old glazing as possible with utility knife,,,then chisel out the remainder  ,,being very careful,,,while doing this  you 'll find some star points,, they are bout 1 /8 inch long,,,,this holds the pane in,,,save em or buy  new ones,,, after this is done ,,  clean the frame really good,,,directions on glazing putty can,,,says to prime  frame with oil base primer,  before applying putty,,,,,let it dry,, insert points back in using glazing knife,,,then take a small amount of putty,,,bout size of golf ball,,,roll it out to make a  string bout 3/4 inch  diameter,,,lay the string next to pane and  frame,,, dip glazing knife in paint thinner,,,and smooth out the putty,,  let putty  dry at least  24  to 48 hours,,,,apply oil base primer,,,and  2 coats  of latex paint,,, its best to replace all the putty at one time,,,easier  also,,,,