How would i paint a varnished desk?

Question

I have a desk that i want to paint to match my bedroom furniture; it is one of those cheap partical board desks that has been varnished, my dad told me he wasn't sure there was a way to make it paintable but i am determined... please help!

Answer 1

Could you use paint with sand in it???? Like what is used

on some steps to keep us from hiking our heels over our

head when the weather is slick outside????

Kinda of a "Beachy" feel to it too.

Use a beautiful  deck paint color and add your own sand.

There is also a liquid stripper available you might look into.

Love it Good! GirL

Answer 2

You could give it a really good sanding down, wipe it over with a cloth to get the last of the dust off and then paint it?

Answer 3

Everything Cdog said is good info, but I wouldn't stop at 100-grit. The finer the better. Go to at least 220.

Answer 4

Anything can be painted if is properly prepared for the new coating.

1.   If the surface is tightly intact (i.e. not loose or flaking, etc.), start by simply "scuff" sanding all surface areas to dull the gloss of the varnish. Use a "medium fine grit" sandpaper (80 or 100),  or even a flexible sanding sponge to get the contours. The idea is just to lightly "etch" the previous finish so the new stuff can achieve a good grip. It will be easier if you can remove all the drawers and k***s, etc first.

2.  Wipe down to clean & remove any dust, etc., using a soft solvent dampened cloth - wear appropriate rubber gloves to protect your hands. I might suggest denatured alcohol. because the "primer" coat of paint will stick well if it is solvent based. White pigmented shelac is "thinned" with this, and will dry quickly and smoothly if it is mixed "50-50" or more with the denatured alcohol to a very thin consistancy. brush it on very thin, and don't worry about trying to cover the color on the first coat. At this point, you're just trying to seal the surface and provide a good foundation for your finnish coat.

3.  When the primer is dry, you may want to lightly sand again and lightly brush another coat of primer. Two very thin coats are always better than one thick one. Thinned coatings "lay down" really smoothly, and you don't end up with ropey looking brush marks. Watch for drips and runs as you go, and brush them out.

4.  Any surface defects such as pin holes can be filled between primer coats with spackle or putty, or even latex caulking. Smooth out as you apply annd spot prime as necessary.

5.  After a final light sand, you're ready for your finish color!

Apply in same manner as the primer, take your time and have fun.

6.  As an alternative to brush work, you can try your hand with spray cans. Shake well and often, keep it moving as you spray, lightly but evenly, and at a proper distance. With a lttle practice, you'll be a pro in no time. Remember not to try and put it on too thick at once. Let it dry and hit it again is better than chunky drips! Mask stuff you don't want to wipe out, and pull the spray tip off and throw it in a little solvent right away to avoid clogs, or have spare spray tips!

Good LucK!