Question:

Hurricane Bertha swells?

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Did anyone on surf any good swell from Hurricane Bertha? How was it?

I surfed some waist+ sets at Tower Rd in the delaware seashore state park on saturday (closeout city), then on sunday i was in the water at the ocean city (md) inlet around 7 am. the tides and heavy boat traffic were making the waves really hard to read and the mixed up swells were odd, waves breaking on top of each other, etc, so i went to assateague island - beautiful. shoulder to head high sets, nicely rolling in over the sandbar.

best of the trip - biggest of my life at assateague (been surfing for about a month) head high+ right. I take off right at the peak, beautiful drop. The wave catches up to a smaller one ahead of it, and I'm looking down a 4 ft face, surfing on the ledge in the double up. I throw caution to the wind and go for the drop...as the smaller wave curls over. my board drops out from under me - my shin found it at the bottom.

i had to get my toothbrush out, cuz i just ate S*!

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  1. surfed the cocoa beach pier saturday and the wave were head high with some bigger sets but it was sloppy and closing out


  2. The waves got pretty big (waist to head high) over at Wrightsville beach, NC.  The first day of swell was the best but the wind got to it the next 2 days chopping it up (it was also onshore) but this morning they were pretty glassy and nice but pretty steep (for me).   I've only been surfing for about a month too, and Bertha's swell has definitely raised my "comfort zone."

  3. whats the question

  4. Friday was pretty epic here in va beach there were some chest+ sets that were coming in with clean faces I checked Croatan(KOOKATAN) at like 6 in the AM the winds were just right and i stayed till I was dead tired which was around noon

    saturday did the same thing but it was nothing but shoulder high close outs the winds were on it all day there were some good rights to be had only if you can catch the shoulder, but with the current being ridiculously strong it was pretty hard to stay at a single spot without burning yourself out

  5. oh i'm sorry.

    I posted a "bertha waves" question right after you. I didn't know anyone posted one yet.

    Florida is flat. VERY disappointing! I was looking forward to the hurricanes here!!!

    : (

  6. I started at 7 AM on saturday. It wasn't really huge, but big sets would roll in every ten/fifteen minutes. There were some neat rides in those big sets. I was all psyched, and fresh, and I had a great session. I was riding my fish, and I went in about 10:30 for a break, and lunch.

    By 1 PM it was bigger, and I went to a different break, because of time (and parking) and it was big, but way too steep for an old guy. It was also closing out, big time. But it was fun while it lasted, but I got slammed a couple times with wicked wipe outs. (I have to admit, even they were fun, in a way). I quit at 4, it was just closing out too bad at that spot.

    I went out a third time at a great break that is only surf 'legal' after hours, at 5:45 PM, and took out my 7'8" Lost. I don't ride that board that often, but it was easier to get outside with than my big fat 7'8" custom fish. I got one decent ride and then got knocked around a little, and I figured out that 6 or 7 hours of surfing was too much for an old dude, so I went in.

    On Sunday I wasn't out until 9 AM, and the same place I left off. It was firing pretty good, and I got a couple clean rides. There was only one guy out near me, and he got caught in a rip, and looked panicky when he paddled past me heading for the beach. I watched, and saw he made it, thank goodness. I would have hated to mess up my session trying to rescue him. It's just a perfect example of people who don't know and understand the water getting in a jam. The rip was not that bad, and it gave me a hand getting out, but he obviously had never surfed in bigger stuff before. I had to quit that spot after an hour, because it's a swimming only beach during beach hours.

    I was out again by 1 pm and it was really off! It was beautiful, but I was surrounded by about forty really good surfers, and being a little older (and slower) I kept pulling out of waves so I wouldn't drop in on anybody. And a couple little kids (really good surfers, but young) snaked me a half dozen times. I got a couple okay rides and then I wiped out (a really bad 'kook' wipeout) and when I started to paddle back out (I was on the fish), i just started to get knocked around. I stopped and realized that I am almost 56. I had a GREAT weekend surfing, so i turned around, paddled back to the beach. I packed up and went had a couple cold beers to celebrate.

  7. I'm right there with RVCA.  Got great waves Friday am at Croatan.  It was still pretty good Saturday for dawn patrol but winds picked up throughout the morning and there was an increasing NE swell mixing it up.  By Sunday it still had good size but the swell was so disorganized that it was pretty much drop in, bottom turn, take it on the head.  Still fun but frustrating.

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