Hydraulic Lifters and Valve Adjustment When The Motor Isn't Running... Check It Out?

Question

On my Chevelle, I did this according to the GM method of #1 at TDC compression stroke and adjust half the valves and then #6 at TDC compression stoke and adjust the other half. However, I did that and now, when I try and start the car, it won't start. It gets close but won't. So I checked compression. The compression in cylinders 1, 2, and 3 are about 140 which is normal (stock cam, pistons, crank, heads) for the car. Numbers 4-8 are really low. They range from 60-90 psi. Well... let me explain. Before I checked the compression, my friend and I replaced the head gaskets because it was blown. So in order to do that, we had to remove the intake, carb, distributor, push rods, rocker arms etc... The number 7 and 8 cylinders before were low but the others were fine (due to coolant in oil -burning). Before, it was around 140 for all except the 2. And now, a lot of them are low but there is no coolant in the cylinder (no white smoke, no coolant in oil, etc...) So, I take it that we must have

Answer 1

Sounds like one of more of the hydraulic lifters has collapsed. Collapsed meaning that the oil has been forced out of the lifter and now the lifter is not allowing the valve to close all the way. Hence the low compression. You need to back off the adjustment and adjust them with the engine running. It is real messy and you will need to make some 1/2 valve covers (lower half) and get some valve adjusting clips that keep the oil from squirting the oil out onto the fenderwells.

Answer 2

are you sure the distriburator is in time?, usually the engine will start even if the lifters are a little tight. If you get it running you need to adjust them while it's running one at a time, back the lifter off until it's ticking then tighten until the ticking is just gone or 0 lash and then tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn.