I'm learing how to surf from my friend and he good but I'm a little scared.?

Question

I'm scared to get in the wave usally i get white wash(right after it crashes )i feel once and i broke my foot now I'm back surfing but not the way i want.How do I get on the wave not after it

Answer 1

a longer board will help you to catch waves long before they actually break.  once you feel more comfortable catching the wave just as it is about to break then you can switch to something shorter.

Answer 2

It sounds like the waves are getting past you or you are inside too far to catch them properly.  You need to get the speed of your board closer to the speed of the approaching wave, then as the wave reaches you, put your head down and give a hard paddle.  Don't paddle straight down the face unless the wave is larger as you will go to the bottom and stall out.  Angle you paddle slight towards the peak on a slower wave, or slightly towards the shoulder on a fast wave.  Also, the point where you give the hard paddle is just before the wave jacks up and breaks.  When you are comfortable, you can go for later take-offs with less paddling.

Answer 3

get towed in at maverick's

Answer 4

Try paddling out farther. Then the wave wont crash on you, but you will have to paddle harder for it.