Question:

I'm new to plastic modeling kits. Any tips on techniques or methodology?

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- Do I paint on the 'tree' or after the model is glued together?

- Brushes or airbrushing? Can you paint using brushes alone and still achieve a smooth paint finish? I'm using Aquieous Hobby Color paints.

- What is meant by 'priming' the plastic prior to painting with acrylics?

- What is meant by 'sealing' the paint after painting?

- Is it better to 'wash' the model with paint in thin layers or do I paint all in one go?

- How do I make the model shiny after painting? What mediums can I use over acrylic paints?

- When diluting acrylics, do I just use water or some other solvent?

I know this will become more evident to me the more I practice, but I think some help initially will clear some concerns for me before I begin.

Many, many thanks in advance.

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  1. built many models as well over the years, won my share of 6 ft tall trophies...

    I prefer to put all the small parts off the tree(sprue) on toothpicks with wax on them to hold the part, that way once you do all your filing and sanding to get rid of the area where you remove it from the tree, you can paint it and be done, no touch ups. There is a paint called metallizer, it works wonders for making parts look like they are really metal, like engines that look like aluminum, exhaust that looks like stainless steel, ect...

    I always used testors enamel paint, never liked acrylics. so not much help there, also I used an airbrush, so I mixed my own paint, much more color variety that way.

    Always wash and sand a body and all parts in order to remove all molding lines, and imperfections from the casting.

    Find a Hobbytown USA near you or online, they carry the best supplies for modeling you will ever find.

    Paint in layers, you get better depth and finish this way. You can also do some sanding between coats to help smooth it out, I can read the newspaper in my paint jobs. (backwards of course)

    there is Bare metal foil you can buy to simulate the chrome on the body like door handles, window trim ect, its self adhesive, and looks great for a couple of years. there is also flocking you can buy to make the seats look like they are made of velour, cloth, very realistic.

    For your first few models I recommend you do spray paint in the can, as a brush will always leave brush marks, and the paint will be very thick. Or get an airbrush, I always used the spare tire adapter to run the airbrush as its mucho cheaper than buying the propel or compressor, all you need is the largest spare tire you can find, and pump it up to about 50 lbs. Airbrush takes practice, as does the spray can, but in time you will figure it out.

    There is a magazine called scale modeler, look it up on line, its full of helpful tips and tricks, and highlites the best of the modeling worlds work in it.

    A set of jewelers files is very helpful for getting rid of casting lines and flash. and you sand paper grits should go from 400 to 1400 grit for final polishing. I always did the final rubout with jewelers rouge for that oh so smooth finish.

    But bear in mind it usually took me months to finish even a basic model. There are even parts for like carb linkages, and wire looms available, all in how realistic you want them to look. I have fun building mine, and enjoy showing them off.

    Revell makes the best kits BTW

    And never throw away your left over parts, you can use them on another project.


  2. I've been doing this for a few decades and have won a trophy or two so I'll give it a go.

    Paint small parts on the tree when at all possible,  when you cut them off you may have to file them a little and retouch them but it's a lot easier to do while on the tree and you're less likely to lose parts.

    Air brushing is the ultimate for painting models.  Pratice with one a little before you start on a model.  Brushes will almost always show marks and it's hard to have an even finish.  Spray paint is also an option.  Here's another tip, wash your model with some mild soap, rinse and then let it dry before painting.  It removes release agents that may be on the plastic and mess up the paint.  I'm not familiar with brand of paint you are using so I'm  not sure of its performance features.

    Priming isn't always needed but it's a good idea particularly if the model is molded in a color other than white.  A light grey is a great primer because it covers darker colors and you paint a lighter color over it and it wont bleed through.  

    For sealing,see making the model shiny.

    You probably won't be able to cover a model in one spray attempt with a can or airbrush due to odd shapes and handling characteristics of a model.  Several light coats will give you much better results.  This also makes runs in the paint less likely to occur.  Dont get in a hurry painting a model,  wait for each coat to dry before the next one.  Inspect the model for places where you need more coverage and try to avoid handling with your fingers to keep body oils off the model.  A coat hanger is a great tool for holding a model during painting.

    There are gloss coat paints that can be applied to a completed paint job to make if more shiny,  Testors makes one and there are others.  These also will seal decals which helps to hide the decal film.  Most of these should be compatable with acylics but it should be on the label.

    With acrylics you can just use water but when I was airbrushing with them I use a 50/50 water rubbing alcohol solution.  Depending on the paint you're using you will most likely need to experiment.  

    If you make a mistake dont try to take paint off with a solvent like finger nail polish remover or anything with acetone in it because it will eat the plastic,  brake fluid will remove paint without causing damage.

    Good luck and have fun,  take your time and you should have it all figured out in no time.  You didnt say what you were specifically modeling so here are a couple of tools, items you may want have around.  A couple of different grits of sand paper,  different size paint brushes,  cuticle sissors and an emery board,  and a tackle box to keep it organized.  

    Hope this helps

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