I adjusted my motorbike chain, but as i was testing it before i finished i found a tight spot on the chain ??

Question

I done all the usual, opened the axel nuts on both sides then adjusted the small nuts on the back that move the axel or tighten the chain, i adjusted the two nuts the same amount, checked the slack it seemed fine with a little play, i tightened the nuts on the axel and when i was checking the wheel by moving it with my hand while the bike was in neutral and on the stand i found a tight spot on the chain...once the wheel got to a certain position the chain locked up or got really tight...i pushed the wheel on and it got slack again, what is this,it just happens once on the way round,its like a tight spot on the chain, is this ok or could it be dangerous ????

Answer 1

turn the wheel to the tight spot & adjust the chain at this point,

if when you turn the wheel to the slack point you can  lift the chain off the sprocket you need a new chain,

Answer 2

find the yight link,put it on the rear sprocket and coat it in penertrating oil for a couple of hours...then move the tight link to the bottom and constantly wiggle it with a adjustable spanners...it should work loose..

Answer 3

IF IT IS TO TIGHT, JUST SLACKEN IT. THE TIGHT SPOT IN THE CHAIN IS THERE FOR A REASON. When you tighten the chain, the screws need to be turned exactly the same.

Answer 4

Listen to guardrailjim.  Also check for two links that are binding and not straightening out like they should after going around the sprocket (usually the front).  It doesn't take much kink to tighten things up.  Kinks are usually the result of a rusty chain or a VERY dry (no oil) worn out chain that's gotten hot.

If the difference is only slight, sometimes the sprockets are not machined exactly on center.  If it tightens up with each revolution of the rear wheel, then it's the rear sprocket.  If the sprocket isn't excessively worn, it's just out of round and there's nothing you can do except change sprockets if you so desire.

If it tightens up about 2.5-3 times for every rear wheel revolution, then it's the front sprocket.

To check the rear sprockets for wear, wipe away any dirt and grease and look at the individual teeth.  They should have the same shape and curve on both the front and back side of the tooth.  In addition, the tip of the tooth should have a flat section.  If the tooth has the flat curve shape kind of like those ski jumps on one side and a sharper, more rounded curve like a skate boarders playground, the sprocket is worn.  If the tip of the tooth has a sharp edge with no flat area, then it's plumb worn out.

To check the chain for wear, grasp the chain on the back (rear of bike) side of the sprocket and pull it away from the sprocket.  If you can see more that half of the tooth when you do so, the chain is worn out and should be replaced.

Just remember that you can have a worn out chain but the sprockets are ok and all that's needed is a new chain.  But when the sprockets are worn out,  the chain was probably worn out many thousands of miles ago and both the chain and sprockets need to be replaced.  NEVER put a new chain on worn out sprockets because you'll wear out the new chain pronto.

Answer 5

What guardrail said.

It's normal to have spots on the chain that are tighter or looser.  When you adjust the chain, you're supposed to dial in the recommended amount of play with the chain at its tightest.  

BTW, I see lots of bikes out there with chains that are waaaay too tight.  Better to have a chain on the loose side of spec than the tight side;  tight chains can lead to bad countershaft sprocket bearings.  That requires splitting the cases to fix.

Answer 6

hi there ,i think were it was adjusted be for was out of lineament now you have done it correct ,it is getting tight were their is not so much wear,,there are many tricks that people will tell you how to get round chain and sprockets to make do ,BUT IT BETTER TO REPLACE BOTH OF THEM NEW not second hand ,for your own safety Fred

Answer 7

Should be OK: Give the chain a thorough clean with a good cleaner & toothbrush and then relube it & recheck for the stiff link. If it's still stiff, go for a blast, relube & recheck. If it's still stiff, I'd think about a new chain.

Answer 8

The axle is on the p**s

Answer 9

It is simple, the chain is worn out. The only solution is to replace the chain before it needle points the sprockets. Good luck.

Answer 10

The reason for tight spots on a chain -

There are no tight spots, only loose spots.

The "tight" spot is actually the part of the chain with the least amount of ware.

The rest of the chain, or the "loose" spots, are where the chain is worn the most.

Always adjust the chain, using the "tight" spot as the measuring point for chain slack.

If the "loose" spot/s are excessive, compared to the "tight" spot, the chain should be replaced.

The chain gets "loose" spots (they're actually stretched parts of the chain) when the chain has been neglected and has to much slack..

The chain is "yanked" to take up the slack when accelerating

Answer 11

may be your chain is on the way out or your sproket  or even both,

what are the teeth like on your sprokets both front and back,

would be a bit better if we knew which bike we are talking about

kind regards x kitti x