I am stripping and re-finishing a solid maple coffee table from the 1950's and it will not take the stain!

Question

I used 0000 steel wool with the stripper, sanded it (don't remember the grit) and prepped with minwax wood conditioner. Followed directions on all containers and after 5+ hours the stain comes right off as if it sat on the surface. I used an oil based stain and allowed an entire day/night between stripping and staining. Help!

Answer 1

Yea wood conditioner is more is a way to treat wood so it can be left in its natural state.  It is basically a sealer.  You need to sand everything down.  Then wipe it clean.  Then stain it.  Then finish it.  You dont need to wait in between sanding and staining.  All you need is a clean surface.  I would recomend Minwax stain and use polyurethane in the yellow can.  Just apply the stain with a rag and whipe dry. Then once that is dry start your finishing.  Pluss you never use steel wool directly on wood.  You only use it on a polyurethaned surface to smooth it out.  Steel wool works a bit better than sand paper on a polyurethaned surface.

Answer 2

Your suppose to wipe it off with a rag moist with mineral spirits then let it dry. If you don't wipe it down  it will never dry.

Answer 3

It's the Maple.....common problem.

Very hard & does not absorb stain well.

The stain "is" sitting on the surface & will soften & smear when you apply the finish even if well dried.

To try again, wipe everything off w/ a liquid stripper until rags

do not show any color.

Another very light sanding ...then try again w/ a water or alcohol soluble powder stain.

Best chance for getting color into the wood....even a lighter shade.

Staining may not be the way to go unless you want to give it another try.

Maple furniture of the time  most likely had the color  in the top finish.( little light patches showing where the finish chipped off?)

Might as well do the same & visit some finishing sites that sell tinted lacquers in spraycans & offer other tips.

(Would avoid things like Minwax polyshades...very unforgiving.)

You can start w/ a light color & blend a darker or warmer shade over it & then a clear finish when you get the shade you want....probably easiest way out & still get good results.

Est. less than $30 for everything .

Best regards

Answer 4

I believe the wood conditioner is acting as a repellent so the stain will not adhere.

If I was you I would start the whole process again making sure there's no oily residue whatsoever, get it "squeekie clean", SKIP the wood conditioner, and stain.

When I strip a piece of furniture I make super sure the piece of furniture is clean, devoid of any stripper. If it's not properly cleaned whatever you brush or spray on will not adhere properly. Once I'm positive the piece of furniture is clean I wait about a week to allow for any straggling solvent to evaporate from the wood. The weather and temperature should be dry, not humid or damp.

Once the stain has "cured", to me that means a week of air drying if the temperature where the desk is stored is not damp or humid, you can use a wood conditioner if you like.

I refrain from using any additives to the wood prior to staining because I don't know what the chemical reaction will be with combined chemicals. There's been times (after my hard work and staining) I begin to see splotches and it just drives me up the wall, so no more wood additives prior to staining for me.