I am thinking about travelling to Buenos Aires, what is it like? Do they like us?

Question

What barrios are best? Where would you stay?

Answer 1

Hi there!  I am from http://www.buenosairesstay.com.  

I am British and own a number of web brands and properties in Buenos Aires:

BAStay ® your key to an amazing city!

Buenos Aires Stay Apartment, hotel, travel and tour guide to Buenos Aires.

If you are visiting Buenos Aires for a holiday, business or to Buenos Aires Stay for a while, then you are in for a real treat.  There is so much to tell you, I am not sure where to start.  This one of the most impressive cities I have had the privilege to visit. Its unique character is built on Spanish colonialism, smuggling and p****y, political and social upheaval and mass European immigration, all of which contributed and to some extent still flourish in this multi-cultural melting pot. Its diversity, tolerance, history and eclectic nature give rise to an energy, passion, elegance and romance; it is said, ‘when you watch the tango, you watch the very essence of Buenos Aires.’

The immigrant populations have signposted their arrivals with amazing avenues and boulevards that offer some of the most inspired and diverse architecture I have seen anywhere.  Its grandeur and underlying poverty; its love affair with good honest beef and potatoes gastronomy; the fine Argentinean wines; its very distinctive districts (barrios) all make this one of the most fantastic cities for the inspired holidaymaker.

If you are not too interested in reading more on this great lumbering old monster, you can navigate to my favourite barrios detailed below, where you will find a detailed guide to the best and safest neighbourhoods and some great low-cost or luxury apartments, accommodation and hotels in Buenos Aires (BAires, Bs.As., Capital Federal or BA, not to confuse you, but to avoid being penalised for word spamming by Google).  I list hundreds of furnished apartments in Buenos Aires in ascending price order in the best known barrios and their many neighbourhoods:

Abasto, Belgrano, Caballito, Centro, Downtown, Las Canitas, Palermo, Plaza San Martin, Puerto Madero, Recoleta, San Telmo, Zona Norte.

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To rent apartments in Buenos Aires is still good value for money, especially when compared to four or five star hotels in Buenos Aires hotel or suites, where you will pay upwards of US$400 each night in hotels in Buenos Aires like the Four Seasons.  The apartments for rent through Buenos Aires Stay are usually fully furnished and inclusive of all costs apart from the use of telephone; some rents even include a maid. They are priced according to market forces and when considering the rents you must realise that landlords expect only 6 to 8 month income each year.  Short term rentals in Buenos Aires have many additional risks and costs not associated with renting unfurnished apartments and long-term rentals in Buenos Aires.  If you want to rent an apartment in Buenos Aires over 6 months to two years, you need collateral in BA to sign a contract (a guarantee); the rents you pay are up to 60% cheaper than vacation apartments in Buenos Aires. I often hear portenos (people of the port) tell jolly foreigner that they have been charged an extortionate rent. They enjoy seeing your shock and horror. This is simply not true, and our many Argentinean clients pay exactly the same rates for their vacation apartments in Buenos Aires.

I am often asked to list the barrios in order of safe to dangerous.  It makes me giggle when our American clients ask how many serious crimes are committed in each barrio. I promise that BA is not like being in war-torn Basra, far from it. My British counterparts often want me to help them navigate Buenos Aires’ cafes, pubs and restaurants that have English beer and food. I will try and answer many of the questions raised by travellers, but for greater insights you must read more on each barrio or speak to my staff that have heaps of great local knowledge and offer free, no obligation advice.  

The barrios dealt with on this site are generally safe, I feel safer in Bs.As. than I do in many American cities or parts of London late at night.

But! People this is a capital city in South America that is home to some of the poorest and richest people in the world and like any city, even in the developed world, if you advertise your wealth or compromise yourself then someone is going to take a lot more interest in you and your property. I am afraid to say that 90% of people, who tell me that they were robbed or conned, on interrogation, turn out to have done something really stupid.  It is never nice when you suffer crime and I do not mean to be flippant, but please do not be a victim of your own stupidity.

I have decided to write about BAires under separate headings, so you can read all my ramblings or pick parts of my review and my many insights that best suit your stay in Buenos Aires.  When you read my information please remember that I am a better sportsman than academic, and I also have to pack in my keywords and phrases to rank this page, or you may never find me at http://www.buenosairesstay.com.

Buenos Aires city, Federal District is the capital of Argentina. Buenos Aires city situated on the shore of the Río de la Plata (River Plate), 150 miles (240 kilometres) from the Atlantic Ocean. It is one of the world's most important ports and most populous cities. The city and some of its barrios described on the website covers an area of only 77 square miles (200 square kilometres). The total metropolitan area, however, occupies some 1,500 square miles.

According to tradition, 16th-century Spanish sailors named the port after their patron saint, Santa María del Buen Aire (St. Mary of the Good Air).  

The city is the national centre of commerce, industry, politics, and culture. The Argentine poet and philosopher Ezequiel Martínez Estrada has called the city ‘The Head of Goliath’, a metaphor that illustrates Buenos Aires imbalance in relation to the rest of Argentina, much like a large-headed monster with a feeble body.  This imbalance has been reason for much political intrigue and war since the city was settled permanently in 1580. You really should read my short history of Buenos Aires to get the best out of your trip.  

]In my mind, this city has always been Argentina, although the future bodes well for many other amazing cities reviewed on this website.  I have complaints from some who come from cities I tell you to miss unless you really have to go like Rosario, but we promise on the website to tell it like it is.

Buenos Aires city that will never bore you, but it will not give up its secrets easily, you have to take your time folks and really explore. When I say take your time, you will also have to be tolerant of our much loved portenos who make taking their time an art form. Just accept it. You have to wait for everything and its all part of BAires charm.  So slow down, take a deep breath and remember you are on holiday.

The many wonderful sites and tourist attractions are surrounded by elegant shopping, with lots of local produce and great ‘one-offs’ from Buenos Aires’ designers.  Ã¢Â€Â˜Shopperholics’ will enjoy the wealth of goods on sale, as well as the suave and stylish portenos; world-class leather goods and woollen clothing are great buys, they are especially cheap if you are good at barter (even if you cannot speak Spanish) ask for a calculator and ‘bid the tango Buenos Aires tango.’ Much face pulling and huffing and puffing is required to get your prize at the right price. Portenos love to barter and you will not hurt their feelings - go in for the kill.  Those who live-to-shop must not miss Palermo Soho.

Shopping done? Good!  You are now in for a gastronomic treat (vegans beware you may starve), the steak and barbecue (Parrillas) lunches and suppers available in numerous restaurants, for considerably less than in the United States or in Europe, make great eating. The famous parillas (pronounced pa-ree-sha) are fantastic barbecues of steak, sausage and bits of animals I will let you taste first and question later. It is true, the steak here is exquisite. My local butcher on Rodriguez Pena/Santa Fe has filet steak that will send your taste buds to carnivore heaven.  The caveat to great meat is trying to find decent fruit and vegetables (poor veggies). Bars and restaurants in Buenos Aires are numerous and all the barrios have their share of great international food and first-class cuisine that fits every budget.  Puerto Madero (pricy) gets my vote for a whole day’s excursion, walking around the ecological reserve to build your appetite and then relaxing in one of the many waterside restaurants.  Walking along the diques (docks) after lunch is very pleasant – remember to dress for the other pesky local diners (mosquitoes) or Deet!  Mosquitoes are another big problem this year.  

At night, and I do mean night; not early evening; you eat at 22h00+, relax and then prepare for a night at a boite (pub/nightclub) or for an evening of tango in Buenos Aires, there are lots of great bars and restaurants to venture out and something for every taste and pocket.  If you book mark this page I will be reviewing restaurants, bars and clubs later in the year. What a life?  I will have to try them all!  To go for dinner at a civilised hour is uncivilised in Buenos Aires.  You are likely to be on your own in a soulless empty room with over attentive waiters, or worse still, sat with one of your own countrymen whose ‘excitement’ you came to tango in Buenos Aires to escape.  Recoleta has some early bars on Vincente Lopez around Recoleta Cemetery, these bars tend to be crammed with tourists and get busy around 18h00. Smokers should call the office for some hot tips on seeking out ones vice. Recoleta Cemetery should not be missed and you really would benefit from a guided tour. The amazing Recoleta cemetery tells the history of Buenos Aires, Argentina. Eva Peron (Evita) rests in Recoleta Cemetery.

The portenos are moderate drinkers and great lovers of music and dance, so be ready to shake away those inhibitions and join the fun.  If you start your alcohol consumption too early you will be floored by the generous measures and frowned upon by your fancy – it is not good form to fall around drunk in BA. Good grief, I sound like my mother.

When navigating the City of Buenos Aires, broad avenues define the limits between different barrios in Centro or Downtown. The city is set out in a grid system that still manages to baffle me. It is easy they tell me. I have been lost when only five minutes from home on more than one occasion.  For my countrymen, downtown means the city centre, my parents had visions of a more dangerous district with bandidos, pistolas and rough looking gauchos on every corner, as it is not a term used much in Great Britain.

On writing this review, I am nursing a very sore right foot, which brings me to another important piece of information – look down! This city is still hampered by poor infrastructure and needs lots of investment and tender loving care.  The electioneering Kirchners have achieved much in the last 12-months and some of the parks and Avenues look truly fabulous, but  the streets are an assault course of ‘doggy pooh’ left by an army of dog-walkers who control packs of up to 20 pooches (portenos do not p**p-scoop) and pavements are broken, rising up and sometimes dangerously potholed. I am sure that many a broken ankle finds its way back home.

During rush hours the avenues are clogged with traffic, most of which is created by buses called the colectiva, an Argentine invention that is one of the city's more distinctive and interesting forms of travel. Smaller than a typical city bus, the colectiva is usually crammed with people and barely stops as passengers leap on and then off to freedom. The drivers, usually one of the socios, or owners, of the cooperative that operates the line, are often colourful characters who provide some shocking commentary on everything from the weather to politics and their taxi driving counterparts to Argentinean football (soccer). Their ‘assertiveness’ is legendary and they are fast but competent. The colectivo driver has become a symbol of the frantic pace of city life. At first, I thought I might die on one of these marvels of modern transport or choke to death on the fumes, but one does get used to them, I think.  Hold on tight, remember that a pinched bottom might be the removal of your wallet in the squeeze and do not play chicken with these ‘babies’ as they take no prisoners!

The cabs are cheap in Buenos Aires and you round up or down the final fare, according to your budget. Drivers do not carry much change and will not change a $100.00 bills. Plan, get a map of Buenos Aires and tell the driver the direction you wish to go and the road, intersection and a house number you must reach.  Planning stops drivers taking you on an unofficial sightseeing tour.  A good map of Buenos Aires is essential.  From Centro, I never pay more than US$2-6.00 to go anywhere in the barrios I write about on this website. Be prepared, as cabbies race-drive the streets, bob and weave and corner their cars with great speed but competence.  It is an experience.

Downtown, the old city centre, which occupies only a fraction of Bs.As and houses almost all the tourist attractions, is found in a relatively compact area making your days of sightseeing relatively pain free if you are not a happy walker.  In addition to the fancy shops, Centro Buenos Aires is the site of virtually all of the major financial institutions and corporate headquarters.  Picture houses and theatres are clustered within a four or five-block stretch on the Avenida Corrientes and Calle Lavalle, which form the centre of a crowded entertainment district ablaze with billboards you will recognise from New York or London theatre lands.

I have described each barrio recommended for your stay in Buenos Aires and I also provide a history of Buenos Aires that I intend to expand into historical walks – do not leave without going to historic San Telmo.  Walks, I must add, much needed after my many planned food and wine critiques, which will be found on these pages after November 2007.

Abasto, Belgrano, Caballito, Centro, Downtown, Las Canitas, Palermo, Plaza San Martin, Puerto Madero, Recoleta, San Telmo, Zona Norte.

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