I have a 4.3 i/o what is the best way to winterize it?

Question

I have a 4.3 i/o what is the best way to winterize it?

Answer 1

Top off your fuel tank and add Stabil (fuel stabilizer). Flush your engine with fresh water, and then flush with marine antifreeze. Fog your carburator and cylinders, make sure you replace spark plugs after fogging. Drain crankcase oil and replace with new oil. Drain lower unit oil and replace with new. Remove batteries and store in dry place. Loosen tension on belts. Tarp the boat like a tent, so rain/snow runs off.

Answer 2

http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/...

Now, what I do are two fold, and I have never had a problem.

#1 If, my boat in the slip/water in winter. I just run some fuel stabilizer in the fuel and put a small watt light bulb in the engine compartment. 10-20 watts more than enough for my area and on nice days I can still go on the water for riding around, keeping my battery charged.

#2 If, the boat will be stored in winter on trailer. Run fuel stabilizer in fuel. Change oil in fall. I usually store with a full tank of fuel. There are about 2-3 plugs to drain the block and manifold, I remove and lay by the engine. I remove the water hoses so any water in them is out and spray "ALL" rubber, inside and out, with silicon spray. Lower the lower until to down position so water not get behind the prop and freeze. I disconnect the battery and I remove and wash the outside with a Baking Soda and water to neutralize acid on the case. This makes it nice and clean. Once a month I connect a 2 AMP battery charger for 24 hours.

In spring I replace the drain plugs and hoses. Check water level in battery (Add Distilled if needed) connect the battery, cleaning the posts first. Raise the lower unit. Take to the lake and put the drain plug in and go.

I never had a problem starting and never even test start at home. My boat always cranks.

There many ways and these the two I do depending if the boat in a slip or on a trailer.

Answer 3

Snaggles is right on, but here is an article that I printed and keep in my manual so I can revert back to it each year, it's good reading too.

The home page of I Boats also has a forum you can get a lot of good info there too. I did, I have, I will again.

Answer 4

The 4.3 V-6 is a nice engine.... well there are two different systems, a closed fresh water cooled system....and a Raw Water cooling system...

The process would depend on which one you have...

The Closed, fresh water cooled system is rather simple, you make sure your anti-freeze is of proper concentration, usually 50/50, also only use distilled water for the 50% of water and you will dramatically reduce corrosion...

If you have a Raw Water system, you should never run the motor without a supply of water going into the intake, even for a few seconds as this will destroy the impellors in your raw water pump... You should hook up your ear muffs to the outdrive and cut a length of hose about 4-5 feet long and attach it to the ear muffs and then attach a funnel to the other end, pour anti-freeze into the funnel and have someone start the engine, after the engine is started, keep pouring anti-freeze into the funnel as needed...run the engine until you see the anti-freeze in your discharge...

As soon as you see anti freeze appear out of the exhaust, pour a small amount of transmission fluid into the carbeurator until the engine stalls....Make sure you continue to pour anti-freeze into the funnel until the engine stalls or you turn it off..

Your Winterized....

When your ready to get her back in service next season, hook up the ear muffs and the hose and turn the water on, pump the accelerator several times and start it up, you may have to hit the carb with some carb cleaner to get it going...It will smoke until the transmission fluid burns off, nothing to worry about.... after it runs and burns off the tranny fluid and is running fresh clear water... Your ready for another season.... Change the oil and have fun..

Answer 5

The "best" way is to have the dealer do it...because they will typically stabilize the fuel, fog the cylinders, drain water and fill with antifreeze, remove your outdrive & lube the ujoints, etc., and just give it a thorough once-over to make sure you are set for the next season.

The cost usually isnt too bad for the peace of mind that it gives you.  

I do mine by myself...but i have been a mechanic for may years...