I have a few questions about corn snakes?

Question

i may be given a corn snake which is mature and settled in its ways. at the moment its in a cage to small for it, to hot, and with no-where for it to hide. it has just a few basics i'm told. i have done some research as i have considered getting a corn snake before but still have a few questions. if you could help i would be very grateful :-)

1. what substrate would you recommend? wood chippings, aspen shavings or something else?

2. what temperature should it be above the heat mat? iv read about

85 F but when i asked a shopkeeper he said 90.

3. do i lower the temperature at night and by how much?

4. for a corn snake do i need a light as well as a heat mat, or is this not necessary for this species.

5. is a basking rock needed with a light over the top? if so does this go in the middle of the cage or on top of the heat map?

6. does the snake need humidity? how much?

7. when the snake sheds should i put a box of damp moss in?

8. does a snake need treating for parasites etc? if so what do i use? and what disinfectant would you recommend? i use dettol for my other pets but i hear that white solutions are toxic to reptiles

9. is it true snakes can only have bottled water?

i have researched my answers but i find places give me different answers so i am trying to get an overall opinion so that i can provide the best for the snake. thank you for help :-) x*x

Answer 1

1)If you are going to feed in the same enclosure do not use a loose substrate it can get into the mouth causing mouth rot . I alway feed in the same enclosure so a good reptile carpet or plain news paper is best. Its best to get it on a feeding schedual if possible.

2) You should have a cage large enough for a temp. gradient  One end at 90*F and the other at 80-85*. You should lower the temp. slightly at night about 7o*-75* . A corn snake can go down to 60-65  at night with no ill effects.

3)Yes see above

4) No you do not need a UVB light or heat light . You do not want to dry out the snake . Just day light is fine but not in the direct sunlight .you can use a heating pad or UTH under half of the cage to keep the cage at the proper temps.

5)No they do not need a basking rock . I would advise against any heat light at all.

6)A humidity level of around 20-40 % is fine . They do not need a great deal of humidity like a Python would .

7) See how he does . He should shed in one piece. If he does not then you can put him in a pillow slip with a warm wet towels and a rock , tie shut and put the entire thing in his cage for one hour. That should help him remove the skin. Never pull on the shedding skin. If hes healthy and you have the cage set up properly he should shed without any help.Always have a large enough water bowl that he can soak in with out it over flowing in the cage . This should also keep you humidity level at the right level.

9)Look closely at the snake especially around the vent area. If you see tiny spots moving then yes he needs to be treated for mites. Check the cage closley also. It may need to be disinfected with bleach water and rince it well.The best thing to use on the snake is dawn dish soap in warm water for a few minutes .You may need to repeat this in a few days .Using reptile carpet or news paper will be much easier to see any mites .

I alway use tap water but I have it set for 24 hours or more to remove the chlorine from it . I use two two liter pop bottles so I have plenty for all of my snakes. I just fill them and rotate them so they have set for at least 24 hours .

I wanted to add that I have always feed my snakes in their same enclosures .But I do not use a loose substrate because of this . I find that they eat much better this way especially picky eaters.They will not associate your hand with food . This is false.

Check out the Corn Snake forum at www.repticzone.com

You can also e mail me if you need more help. Corn snakes are pretty easy to care for . Enjoy !

Answer 2

1. Aspen bedding is a substrate for snakes.

2. Put a heating pad on one side and leave it on all the time, and on the other side put a heat lamp for about 12 hours a day.

3. At night just leave the heating pad on.

4. I use a light, as well as a had pad, although this is not required.

5. Never use a rock. If you get the ones that are electric heat rocks, it will burn your snake. If you get a real rock, the light will warm it up and it could burn your snake, and if you don't have a light, but still have the rock, it may get really cold.

6. Yes. I just mist the cage really good about once a week. If you don't have a light just mist it lightly.

7. I've never heard of this. If you can tell he's getting ready to shed just mist the cage a little to increase the himidity. Once he's shed just let him go back to what he does.

8. No. If he gets parasites however, you need to take him to a reptile vet.

9. I give mine regular tap water. The only reason some people say bottled water is because of the chlorine. You may just want to get some tap water de-chlorinator, which instantly de-chlorinates water.

(And when you re-size your cage get a 40 gallon or 55 gallon tank)

I hope this helps you to create a better home for your snake.

Answer 3

1) Aspen's good. Wood shavings are fine so long as you avoid ceder. Newspaper is excellent as it is cheap and easy to use.

2) So long as the heat mat is only over 1/3 of the vivarium and there is a temperature gradient, it really doesn't matter. The snake will choose which temperature it wants. Just make sure the cold end is around room temperature.

3) Don't bother. Like I say, if the snake is too hot it can move to the cooler end.

4) No, lights aren't needed for corns because they are nocturnal.

5) No, not needed. Corns do not bask in sunlight but rather take heat from the rocks below (nocturnal).

6) Only during preshed. No exact measurement is needed, just mist the viv twice a day during this time. At other times the snake should not have any extra humidity (water dish should be on the cold side) to prevent infection.

7) Yes, it would be nice to the snake to have somewhere very wet to help shed. It's not essential, though. Provided you are misting it twice a day during this time.

8) Don't worry about deworming or other preventitive treatment. There's no such thing for snakes. If you do discover parasites such as mites or ticks, consult a reptile vet. If you but from a reputable source (captive bred, please) you shouldn't encounter these problems.

As to disinfectants, there are numerous reptile-friendly ones you can buy. Get them from a pet shop or online. "www.livefoods.co.uk" has all sorts of supplies like this.

9) No, not at all. They are fine with tap-water. If you are worried, give your snake tap water that's been aired for 12 hours or so, although this really isn't necessary.

Hope this helped

Answer 4

1.i would recommend beech, defo not ceder as it is harmfull to snakes, make sure any p**p is cleaned out as soon as you see it and change the substrate every month or so,

2 & 3as an adult dont use a heat mat use a bulb with a themostat (the habistat 1s are good)my temp is about 83 degrees give or take.

the temp doesnt have to be changed at night, make sure you have a warm and a cold side.as a baby but a small heat mat under the plastic tank at one side, the temp should be around 80

4.all you need is a heat bulb at 1 end, not both.or a mat for a baby snake

5. no rocks needed, they need a hide, 1 at each end

6.you could spray the tank a littyle when the snake is shedding but its not a jungle snake so usually any water evaportated from the water bowel is fine (make sure the water is on the cool side)

7. you can put a little moss in although i never have and have had no probs, jus make sure the eye cases have come off and the end of the tail has too.

8.your snake should not have parasites if you have bought him frm a pet shop, i would consult a vet on this and do not use any product without tlking to a vet 1st.you can buy reptile disinfectant but this is for cleanin purpose only

9.i have always  used tap water but i think it may be best to use bottled if you are in a hrad water area.

google corn snake care and there are some very good caresheets out there.

good luck and email if you need anything further

also never feed your snake in his tank, take him out and put him in a cardboard box or somthing to that effect. this is because 1, wood chips can be eaten with the mouse, 2. the snake will asscociate you r hand entering the tank with food and therefore may bite you when yu are  justgetting him out for a play as he will think foods arriving.

i say him it could be her lol :)

Answer 5

1.A variety of materials can be used for substrate. Newspaper is the utilitarian choice - it is very easy to clean up, but the appearance in the cage leaves a little to be desired. Indoor/outdoor carpeting ("Astroturf") can be used, and if you cut two pieces you can rotate them by swapping the clean one for the dirty one at cleaning time, and thoroughly washing and drying the soiled one. Pine bark chips are another good choice - the chips soiled with f***s can simple be scooped out, and a thorough cleaning done as needed. Aspen shaving can be used in a similar manner, although it is probably a good idea to move the snake to a separate container for feeding so that the shavings are not inadvertently ingested. Sand, soil, corncob, pine shavings and cedar shavings are not good choices.

2.A temperature gradient of about 70-85 F (21-29 C)

3.yes u can aslong as your house doesnt go below 70 u can juts turn off the heat source

4lights arent necessary

5.do u mean like a plug in hot rock because they shouldnt be used they burn and kil pets

6. humidity should be kept fairly low but not desert like most people dont have to worry about humidity

7.yep but always have a water dish big enough to soak in

8.U dont have to unless the snake has parasites. when u get it take it to a reptile vet and have it given a check up if your worried. also u can get snake/reptile stuff dont use anything else.

9.Some people use tap water but bottled water is better for them less chemicals. i use bottled