I have found a surprise!!

Question

While cleaning out the neighbors barn I found a "curb bit", little bit or surface rust but In great shape.

I do know my horses and horse related things, except for my bits..

what is this bit *normally* used for

what type of horse should it be used on

anything else would be nice...

http://www.moonrakerqh.com/tack/gfx/bit-25-208.jpg

THANKS

Answer 1

This is a bit that comes with a bridle package.  Most people take them off and throw them away.  I have seen them best used as cute toilet paper holders.  Galloppal is way off in leading you to believe that they are reserved for upper level horseman - no professional would be caught dead with such a piece of junk hanging in their tackroom.  They are poorly balanced and serve no place in the training program of anyone I know.  You have some really good answers here about bits and bitting, with nothing I can add.

Answer 2

That's a "grazing bit". I've seen them used commonly with pleasure or trail type horses. Here are a few reviews and descriptions on grazing bits.

http://horses.about.com/od/bitsexplained...

http://www.rods.com/p/502,233_Sweet-Iron...

The Curb bit is one of the major type of bits. It is considered a leverage bit because of the action of the curb chain. When the reins are pulled and the curb chain engaged, it applies pressure to the chin groove. The tern "grazing bit" is commonly referred to as a curb bit with shanks that sweep backward to allow the horse to graze. The more the shanks sweep back, the more your leverage decreases. A grazing bit is considered a good bit for BROKE horses and also for novice riders because it can be pulled on with less affect than a loose shanked bit. A horse MUST be trained to use a curb bit. Curbs do not provide separate lateral control. Used in neck reining.

Answer 3

It looks like the cheap bits that come with headstalls which are sold as ''complete bridle packages'' in tack shops & online sometimes....prolly nickel plated...if its rusty, just recycle it...you can buy a new one for like 5 or 6 dollars...

Answer 4

That's pretty much the exact same bit I use on my mare. I use it on her for pretty much everything I do. I ride western, and use it on trails, and for cattle drives, parades, ect.

Answer 5

A curb bit to some is the answer for a fractious horse, but to others it is a sure recipe for disaster. While some agree that if used in small quantities it does have its merits, they are also quick to point out that a curb bit should be used on a horse only when working in a collected mode.



The goal is to have the animal’s entire body respond, even though you have more pressure in its mouth than if you were using a snaffle bit. In order to ascertain this heightened power, it is advisable to experience it yourself first hand. To this end, relieve your horse of its bridle and place your fist directly between the curb chain and the mouthpiece.

The pressure this will put on your fist may surprise you. This is a good illustration for the fact that while a snaffle bit two ounces of pressure on the bit itself will give you an equal force of pressure on the



mouth, the curb bit will actually multiply your two ounces by as much as four times! Thus, it is wise to know the kind of pressure your horse will feel before actually applying it to the animal.

It is not surprising that horse enthusiasts eye the curb bit with a bit of trepidation. The tool itself consists of a mouthpiece which as a shank located on either side. You will be able to attach a bridle or curb chain to the upper shank, while the reins can be attached to the lower shank. What makes this devise so functional is the fact that it gains its power from rotation, allowing one shank to go back and the top to go forward. The chain will squeeze the jaw, subsequently letting the bridle apply pressure to the poll.

Considering the kind of power you will be able to exercise with the curb bit, you will need to be wise in selecting the right kind of bit for you. There is the Pelham which is nothing more than a curb bit with a curb rein as well as a snaffle rein, thus being useful as either bit. Of course to fully use it to your advantage you will need to refrain from pulling on both reins simultaneously. The other device on the market is the Kimberwicke which is considered a gentle kind of curb. Last but not least is the full bridle which is simply a combination of a snaffle and a curb bit. The goal of this setting permits the snaffle to exercise control of the animal while the curb portion permits the horse to remain collected. This latter implement is perhaps the hardest kind to use and should only be done by someone well trained in using such instruments of control. Of course, if applied incorrectly, even the mildest kind of curb can be harsh!

When you are ready to pick out a curb, keep in mind the size and shaping of the mouthpiece; for example a smooth port that angles backward a little is more easily accepted by a horse than other kinds, including a straight bar. Similarly, if it is too large it will rock from side to side, creating a possibility for injury and lack of control. It may take a bit of tinkering to figure out just which mouthpiece will work best for your animal. By way of suggestion, a curb bit should have a somewhat thick mouthpiece but it should not be overly. Additionally, stay away from the bits that exert pressure downward, since it will injure the animal’s tongue. Even the selection of material is important. Aluminum – although cost effective – should be avoided because of the bad taste it will leave in the animal’s mouth.

Once you have selected the appropriate curb bit that will work for your horse, take some time to properly fit the curb chain. This fitting should permit the bit to rate back 45 degrees; while there is no hard and fast rule of thumb, there is the general suggestion that two fingers between the curb chain and the animal’s chin are a good place to start. Additionally, make sure that there are no knotted or twisted materials underneath the animal’s jaw.

To gage your success with this bit, you will want to observe the animal when you are stopping: if it is throwing back its head, the bit may need to be adjusted or replaced with one that fits better.



The curb bit

The curb bit consists of a mouthpiece, curb chain, and a shank, with one ring per side on the top of the shank, and one ring on the bottom of the shank. Pelham bits also have a ring next to the mouthpiece.

The action of the curb bit

A curb bit works on several parts of a horse's head and mouth. The bit mouthpiece acts on the bars, tongue and roof of the mouth. The shanks add leverage and place pressure on the poll via the crownpiece of the bridle, to the chin groove via the curb chain, and, especially with a "loose jaw" shank, may act on the sides of the mouth and jaw.

A curb bit is a leverage bit, meaning that it multiplies the pressure applied by the rider. Unlike a snaffle bit, which applies direct rein pressure from the rider's hand to the horse's mouth, the curb can amplify rein pressure several times over, depending on the length of the curb's bit shank. Shank sizes vary from the Tom Thumb (2 inches long) to more than 5 inches.

[edit] Leverage principles

Overall shank or cheek length, from the top of the cheek ring to the bottom of the rein ring, usually cannot exceed 8½ inches for most horse show disciplines. The relation of the upper shank (purchase)—the shank length from the mouthpiece to the cheekpiece rings—and the lower shank—the shank length from the mouthpiece to the lowest rein ring, is important in the severity of the bit. The standard curb bit has a 1½" cheek and a 4½" lower shank, thus producing a 1:3 ratio of cheek to shank, and producing 3 lbf of pressure on the horse's mouth for every 1 lbf placed on the reins (3 newtons for every newton).

Regardless of the ratio, the longer the shank, the less force is needed on the reins to provide a given amount of pressure on the mouth. So, if one were to apply 1 lbf of pressure on the horse's mouh, a 2" shank would need more rein pressure than an 8" shank to provide the same effect.

A long lower shank in relation to the upper shank (or purchase) increases the leverage, and thus the pressure, on the curb groove and the bars of the mouth. A long upper shank in relation to the lower shank increases the pressure on the poll, but does not apply as much pressure on the bars of the mouth.

However, longer-shanked bits must rotate back further before applying pressure on the horse's mouth than shorter-shanked bits. Therefore, the horse has more warning in a long-shanked bit, allowing it to respond before any significant pressure is applied to its mouth, than it would in a shorter-shanked bit. In this way, a longer shank can allow better communication between horse and rider, without increasing severity. This is also directly dependent on the tightness of the curb chain.

Type of shank

The curb chain or strap applies pressure to the curb groove under a horse's chin. When the shank of the bit rotates back (due to rein pressure), the cheek of the bit rotate forward since it is a lever arm. The curb chain is attached to the rings at the end of the cheek. So as the cheek moves forward, it pulls the curb chain, tightening in the curb groove. Once it comes in contact with the curb groove of the horse it acts as a fulcrum, causing the cannons of the bit mouthpiece to push down onto the horse's bars, thus amplifing the bit's pressure on the bars of the horse's mouth.

The action of the bit is therefore also dependent on the tightness of the curb chain. If the bit is used without a curb chain (very uncommon-- and dangerous), it loses its leverage action. If used with a loose curb chain, it allows the shanks to rotate more before the curb chain is tight enough to act as a fulcrum and exert pressure. This extra rotation can warn the horse before pressure is exerted on the mouth, so the well-trained horse may respond faster. If used with a very tight curb chain, the bit immediately exerts leverage and increased pressure on the bars as soon as pressure is applied to the reins. Therefore, a tight curb chain is harsher, and provides less finesse in signaling the horse than a looser curb chain would.

Fitting the curb bit

Curbs are generally placed lower down in a horse's mouth than snaffle bits, touching the corners of the mouth, or creating a single slight wrinkle in the lips. The lower the bit is placed, the more severe it is as the bars of the mouth get thinner and so pressure is more concentrated.

The curb chain should be adjusted correctly, lying flat against the chin groove and only coming into action against the jaw when the shank is rotated, but not so loose that the shank exceeds 45 degrees of rotation.

i ride with one on my 2 year old  

Answer 6

An old western  bit.   No, it's NOT a grazing bit....those shanks come straight down from that mouthpiece with very little angulation.  I'd take a pass IF this is aluminum..dries out a horses mouth.   I've seen a lot  of these used as pony bits and "first time horse bits" for a very novice rider.   This bit design was around many years ago before bit technology became the science that it is today with all the different port designs; I agree with the posters that said it looks like a bit that comes with the "bridle package"...

A "grazing bit" has a swept back shank.....for, grazing....there is no mistaking their design.   And the shanks aren't a little bit angled; there's a definite sweep to the shank.

http://www.rods.com/p/493,232_Reinsman-P...

http://www.chicksaddlery.com/page/CDS/PR...

http://lfssales.com/bits/254862.jpg

An Bob Avila designed  bit hand built by Tom Balding....for the advanced cow horse....nothing similar to the bit that you found.........it's NOT a grazing bit.

http://www.avilaproshop.com/index.php?p=...

Answer 7

Depending in the length of the shanks I use curb bits when working and showing my western pleasure horses. It depends on the port, No port (mullen mouth) to a medium port is good for horses that already know how to do lateral work, leg pressure and neck rein. A high port is just for show (to me at least) so you barely need to cue the horse to get a reaction. Figure out the port before you use it.  

Answer 8

i have the same bit at home and we used it for trail

Answer 9

This is the most common curb around.  This is the bit that comes on 'complete' headstalls.  You say this is heavy for it's size, you've got an old one, probably stainless steel.

Answer 10

This is a western bit used for advanced western riding and requiring years of horsemanship experience and training to use it correctly.  A straight shank would be used for work like dressage.  The much more angled shank of a grazing bit looks nothing like this.  A grazing bit had sharply angled shanks to accommodate allowing a horse to graze with the bit in place, as a cowboy would need....the angle moved the shank out of the way while the horse grazed without engaging the bit. This is a low port medium shank curb bit...it is used for all around work on a fully trained western horse, and in the hands of a fully trained western horseman. Curved shanks are always used in western performance where the head of the horse is positioned low.  The high head carriage of dressage dictates the use of straight shanks on a curb bit.