I have2 dragons and for the past week their eyes are closed and not eating,help!?

Question

Now they not as active as before and even trying to feed them by hand which they love... they rejecting the food, any suggestions?And the eyes are shoot close

Answer 1

Hi,

Where do you live, and what is the temp that you have your dragons at?

Like another responder said, it sounds like they've gone into hibernation.  I live in the US and it is very hot in my area, so this is my dragon's most active time.  So that's why I asked what your temps are.  Hibernation would be strange at this time of year.

Had you fed your dragons anything different before they started acting this way.  It is interesting that they both have the same symptoms.  Maybe something in their salad or their live food was contaminated.  

If the temps are high, I would think that  they shouldn't be hibernating right now and I would say get them to a vet ASAP!

Answer 2

maybe their dead genius

Answer 3

Are you housing your beardies together? If you are, that is a problem. Beardies should NEVER be housed together, regardless of age, size, or gender. They are NOT social, and prefer to be housed alone.

What size tank are you using? If they are babies, each should have their own 20 gallon long tank. If they are adults, each should have their own tank too; a minimum of a 40 gallon breeder tank.

Bearded dragons only Brumate (hibernate) if they are 1+ years, and even then, only during the winter. What are your temps? Bearded dragons need basking temps of 105-110 degrees, and cool side temps of 75-80 degrees. Check these temps with a digital thermometer with probe. Do NOT use the stick on ones, they can be up to 20 degrees off! For checking basking site temps, put the probe directly on the basking surface, and let it sit for 30-40 minutes to get an accurate reading. Keep in mind that if the beardie is sitting on/touching the probe, the temps won't be accurate.

What type of basking light are you using? It should give off white light, not blue/red/black.

What UVB light are you using. UV lights are different then basking lights, and are 2 seperate things; unless you have a MVB bulb like a MegaRay. The best UV light available in a petstore is the ReptiSUN 10.0 flourescent TUBE. It must be 6-8 inches away from your beardie. Do NOT get the ReptiGLO 10.0, or any compact or coil bulbs, those cause blindness, conjectivitis, seizure, and death. The symptoms include beardies squinting/closing eyes while in the cage.

What supplements are you putting on the food? A beardie needs Repcal calcium powder+D3, and Herptivite multi-vitamin. A baby needs their food dusted with repcal+D3 one feeding a day 5 days a week, and Herptivite one feeding a day 2 days a week. An adult needs Repcal+D3 2 days a week, and Herptivite 1 day a week.

What insects are you feeding? They can have insects that are no longer or wider the the space between their eyes. They can eat silkworms, butterworms, crickets, tomato horn worms, pheonix worms, dubia roaches, discoid roaches (neither one of the roaches can fly or climb glass), waxworms, and superworms. Wax worms should only be offered very occasionally as they're very fatty and highly addictive. Superworms should only be given to beardies 14+ inches long and 1+ years old, because they are so big. NO mealworms; they have no nutritional value, and cause impaction.

What substrate are you using? If you're using sand, calci-sand, vita-sand, crushed-walnut, or any other loose particle substrate, remove it. All those substrates cause impaction, which can be fatal, even if the package says it's digestable. Also, thay are very unsanitary, especially the sands, and they can get into bearide's eyes, scratching them, and causing blindness. The best substrates to use are paper towel, newspaper, slate or ceramic tile, and non-stick shelf liner. They are safe, sanitary, cheap, and easy for every-day cleaning. For either of the papers, you can easily replace the soiled section, and for the liner or tile, you can remove it and easily wash it with reptile safe disinfectant (diluted Nolvasan is good). That is not possible with sands, as even if you sift daily, all you do is remove the p**p, but the germs stay behind in the sand.

WHhat greens are you offering? They should get Dandelion greens, Turnip greens, Mustard greens, Collard greens, Endive, Escarole, Cilantro, Kale, Yellow squash, and Butternut squash. Do NOT feed lettuces, spinach, or cabbage; they are not healthy. Here is a list of all the things beardies can and can't eat http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.co...  

I also suggest you visit http://www.beardeddragon.org/bjive/ for additional advice if you need it.

You can find a vet off of http://herpvetconnection.com if you ever need one

Good Luck!

Answer 4

Their either dead or they are hibernaiting which is when they stay asleep for a couple of weeks.

Answer 5

there dead dumb @$$