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I just got a new kitten from a litter found in my shed in the backyard. Any tips on training or feeding.?

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we can tell if it is a boy or a girl the boy name will be Dongwa the girl Sagwa. which is better? and how can i tell if it is a boy or a girl? any tips on training it or sorts like that? also this is the first time ive ever had a kitten my dad and mom have owned one as kids as well.......

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  1. I like Sagwa. Anyway, I couldn't tell which s*x my kitten Daisy was until the fourth week. If your kitten is not around it's mother you will have to make it pee and p**p by rubbing its genitils with a warm wet tissue or towel. Feed it kitten formula with a bottle or medicine dropper. Keep it warm, and show it lots of love! Goodluck!!!


  2. idk

  3. How old is it, what you should feed it depends on the age.  What happened to the rest of the kittens???

    Kitten Care Guides:

    http://www.paw-rescue.org/CATS/kitten_ca...

    http://cats.about.com/cs/kittencare/a/ki...

  4. make sure its old enough to be seperated from its mother (more then 8 weeks atleast) then take it to the vet :) she/he will tell u what you needa know, plus she will check if theirs anything wrong with it and give it shots for stuff like rabies and stuff .. peace ;D

  5. Where are the other babies? Cats are easy to litter train. Put them in the box. They usually get it.It may take a couple of times. How old is this kitten? I worry about it being pulled from its mother to young.

  6. I would make my first trip to the vet to find out how old it is.  It will need mothers kitten replacement milk, a small bottle to feed it from (you can get this stuff at your local pet store or Walmart).  You also need to wipe it's bottom with a wet cloth shortly after feeding to stimulate it to go to the bathroom.  They need to eat and use the bathroom every 4 hours.

  7. Definitely take it for shots -- you can find out then if it's a girl or boy. But especially when a kitten is in the first year it is most susceptible to diseases. You should get it fixed ASAP if you don't want more kittens (and you don't). You may find a good clinic that offers good deals -- even humane societies will do it cheaply. Expect to pay $60 or so for the shots a couple of times in the first year. It's worth it. I don't know how much for spay/neuter

    Feeding: stick to DRY food only (wet food or a mix of wet/dry poses digestive problems). Pick one feed and stick with it, don't switch brands. Vets recommend a nice expensive natural food but I raise several cats to around 20 yrs old on Friskies. For the first year keep the bowl full -- usually a cup or so a day of food. Clean the bowls often (their saliva brings germs)

    Litterbox: Put it someplace where it isn't miserable to scoop. If your cat can go outside (safe from predators) then that helps -- though you want to be sure to keep the claws on it so it can escape from a dog or whatever if it needs to. Otherwise, if it's an indoor cat keep the claws trimmed and the litterbox scooped. Using a litterbox comes so naturally to them. Just make sure the cat knows where it is. You can even put it someplace prominent at first and then move it to a more hidden place (we used to keep ours in the downstairs bathtub which no one ever used -- easy to scoop if you get flushable litter, and easy to keep the area around it clean); also it's hidden behind the curtain and the bathroom fan keeps the odor at bay. With more than one cat that is harder. If the cat poops outside the box, pick it up and put it in the box then show it to the cat. Or if you see the cat squatting, bring it to the box!

    For discipline get a good spray bottle. you shouldn't teach the kids to hit the cat -- that can really hurt the animal. But a bottle of water (or a few around the house) will be a good deterrent to climbers. Be patient, remember that it's a baby.

    Once they are a year old you start to monitor the food so the cat doesn't get fat (about 10 lbs is average at that age).

    And play with them -- they love a good feather at the end of a piece of string or ribbon.

    Good luck!

  8. Check for testicles. If they are present, it's a boy! Please get him/her fixed regardless of gender. He/she will need to go in for shots anyway :).

    As for food, not all pet food is made equally. A lot of it is full of corn, by-products, dyes, unhealthy preservatives, filler grains and all sorts of nasty stuff. A lot of pet food companies are perfectly happy to dump cheap leftovers in. Will it kill your cat? No, it has to be nutritionally complete and safe to even be marketed. Is it healthy? Not by a long shot.

    Corn is a low quality ingredient you never want to see in your pet food. Corn and low quality grains are two of the biggest culprits when it comes to food allergies in our pets.

    Thankfully, there are some excellent cat foods being made these days that include organic, human grade ingredients rather than trash not fit for human consumption.

    Examples of low quality foods to avoid: Anything you can find in a grocery store will be low end, Purina, Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, Royal Canin, Whiskas, Fancy Feast, Friskies, Meow Mix.

    Examples of high quality foods to look for: Innova, Wellness, Solid Gold, Felidae, Fromm Four Star, Merrick, GO Natural, Nature's Variety Prairie, Nature's Logic, Artemis Fresh Mix, Timber Wolf Organics.

    Although the high quality foods are more expensive, you're getting what you're paying for. Less filler material means more concentrated nutrients... this means you typically need to feed far less of the high quality food than you would of the low quality one. Which also means less p**p!

    A great option is to go with an entirely grainless diet. Diets high in grain have been attributed to problems with diabetes in cats. Cats are obligate carnivores, so why should there be grain in their diet? Many of the high quality foods now put out grainless formulas. Some good grainless diet's include: Innova EVO, Wellness CORE, Blue Wilderness, Nature's Variety Instinct, Orijen, Fromm Surf & Turf, Now!, and Sold Gold Indigo Moon, Taste of the Wild.

    Some of the high end foods can be found in common pet stores. Petsmart carries Blue Buffalo products (such as the excellent grain free diet Blue Wilderness). Petco carries Wellness and Solid Gold. If you can't find a food, most of the high quality food brands have websites with store locators on them.

    Remember that foods should be switched gradually, especially when switching to a higher quality one, so as not to upset tummies.

    Another option for feeding cats is to feed raw. This is something that should be thoroughly researched before being attempted:

    http://www.barfworld.com/

    http://www.rawfedcats.org/

    http://www.rawfed.com/

    Now the question is, do you feed wet or dry? Wet is the correct answer. The reason is, in the wild, cats normally get most of their water content directly from their prey items and drink very little. Domestic cats are no different, and because of the fact that they are designed to take in water with their meal, they have a very low thirst drive. Cats often just don't drink enough. This leads to urinary tract infections and crystals. The bit about dry food being better for teeth is a myth and has not been proven in the least. Canned/wet food is better because it more closely mimics the cat's natural diet. More on why canned food is best:

    http://www.catinfo.org/  (Excellent cat nutrition information by a vet)

    http://cats.about.com/cs/catfood/a/canne...

    http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?ac...

    Another option to get cats to drink more would be a cat fountain. Cats tend to like to drink from running water and cat fountains see to that need, encouraging cats to take in more water.

    More:

    http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_... (Dog food reviews. It's for dogs, but most of the high quality brands also put out excellent cat foods. Anything with five or six stars is a great food.)

    I'd advise keeping him/her as an indoor cat. It'll be much healthier for your cat to be indoors where it's safe from poisons, loose dogs, other cats, cars, malicious people... and so on (the list of dangers is quite long). Indoor cats live much longer, healthier lives than outdoor or indoor/outdoor cats and it's very possible to have a happy, well entertained indoor cat. Read more on why indoor is better and how to convert an outdoor or indoor/outdoor cat to indoor only as well as how to make a safe outdoor enclosure for indoor cats:

    http://www.geocities.com/heartland/point...

    http://home.hiwaay.net/~keiper/indoors.h...

    http://www.cat-world.com.au/cat-worldenc...


  9. Take the kitten to a vet and give it shots.

    YOU ALSO NEED TO HAVE IT SPAYED/ NEUTERED so there are no more unwanted kittens around.

    Training is easy... the cat will do what IT wants to do.

    spray bottle to keep from doing something like scratching on furniture.  

    Get it a scratching post.  sand box  and make sure it doesn't have fleas...

    if it does get a flea comb and comb out the fleas and dip them in soap or alcohol.

    I am sure we will hear from you again... especially if you don't have the cat neutered/ spayed!

    good luck  

  10. very easy to train and feed, but first, vet. strays are always sick. they need to be , at least dewormed.

    second, get mom spayed and find a home for the rest, or call a shelter to take them

    two kittens, siblings that like each other are easier to care for. they amuse and comfort each other.

    training is easy, just takes time. get a litter box, keep putting kitty in it, he will figure it out. vet will recommend food. usually a canned food.

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