I need berded dragon help?

Question

i need like a sight with forurms and im getting a bearded dragon thats a new born baby how do i take care of it what should i put in its cage i herd Vita-sand was not good for a baby? and what is the common care how often should i feed it ? what should i put in its cage?PS LIKE I SAID DONT HAVE IT YET!

Answer 1

Put like astroturf in it and you feed it small pieces of vegetables and you could put rocks and little logs in it,

Answer 2

I have crushed walnut pieces in my tank...which is supposed to be ok for bearded dragons.

Here's some good sites that I went to before getting my baby:

http://www.dachiu.com/care/abeard.html

http://www.beardeddragoncare.net/

http://www.sundialreptile.com/care%20she...

Answer 3

DO NOT PUT CRUSHED WALNUT SHELLS IN YOUR CAGE!!!!!!!!! I SHOULD KNOW MY BEARDIE DIED FROM IT.

Answer 4

Keep in mind that Bearded dragons are *very* expensive, especially the babies. Baby dragons can eat up to 100 crickets a day. Make sure you have the money to pay for the cage (they need a large one), the heat light, the fixture, the UVB light, the fixture, live insects, greens&veggies, calcium powder, multi-vitamin powder, something to bask on, a water dish, a hide, things to climb on, etc. It is also better to get beardies from a professional and reputable breeder, not from a petstore. Pet store beardies are usually sickly, or have parasites, even if you can't tell when you first get them. You have a better chance of getting a healthy one from a breeder.

Here is a great site with all the foods that Beardies can and can't eat. Also, remember that a prey item or piece of fruit/veggie should be no longer or wider then the space between your beardie's eyes.  http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.co...

Here is a site that I reccomend to new beardie owners; it has all the information you will need, and you can ask questions and recieve answers from people who have delt with beardies for years.  http://www.beardeddragon.org/bjive/

NO, vita/calci-sand is NOT good for a beardie of ANY age. It causes impaction, which can be fatal. All types of sand cause impaction, and are breeding grounds for bacteria. Even after you "scoop" the p**p, the germs are still left behind in the sand. ALL loose partical substrates: sand, crushed walnut, bed-a-beast, coconut fiber, etc are dangerous, and can cause impaction. Substrates (what you put in the bottom of the cage) that are safe, sanitary, and easy to clean daily are newspaper, paper towel, slate or ceramic tile, and non-stick shelf liner. Those can not cause impaction, and if soiled, it is easy to remove the whole mess and the germs, and if its paper towel/newspaper, it can be thrown away, and new paper put in it's place; or if it's tile or shelf liner, it can be taken out, and easily washed off.

A baby beardie will need basking temps of 100-105 degrees, and a cool side with temps of 75-80 degrees. An adult needs basking temps of 105-110, and a cool side with temps around 75-80. These temps should be measured with a digital thermometer with a probe. Do NOT use those cheap stick on thermometers; they can be off up to 20 degrees! The basking light need to be WHITE light, not red/blue/black. You will NOT need any night time heat, unless the temps drop below 70 degrees. The beardies need a drop in temp at night.

A beardie should always live ALONE. They do NOT like cage-mates! They will fight, even two females. An adult will NEED a MINIMUM of a 40 gallon breeder enclosure. Bigger is always better. A baby can live in a minimum of a 20 gallon long tank, but only for a few months.

Beardies NEED good UVB to prevent getting MBD (Metabolic bone disease), which can be fatal. The best UVB is the ReptiSun 10.0 TUBE. Do NOT use the compact or coil bulbs, they cause blindness, seizure, and sometimes death. Also, do NOT use the ReptiGlo 10.0. If they do not have ReptiSUN 10.0, then get ReptiSUN 5.0. If they don't have either of those, ReptiGlo 8.0 can be used until you find ReptiSun. The ReptiSun 10.0 should be a minimum of 6-8 inches away from the beardie. The only bulb that is heat and UV in one, is a MVB bulb. The best MVB you can get is the MegaRay off of http://www.reptileuv.com/ . You MUST have a 40 gallon breeder to use MVB bulbs, and they have to be a minimum of 12 inches away from the beardie.

A baby beardie needs to be fed as many insects as it will eat in a period of 15 minutes 3 times a day; don't limit the amount they get. When they get older, they only need to be fed 2 times a day, and an adult (1+ years) should only be fed a few insects a day; or about 30-50 per week. If you offer an adult beardie too many insects, they will become obese, and can get fatty liver disese; because they're done growing, they don't need the protein that a baby/juvie does. Beardies of ALL ages need to be offered greens DAILY, whether they eat them or not.

A baby beardie should have Repcal calcium powder+D3 put on their insects 5 times a week, but only one feeding a day. (So if you feed insects 3x a day, only put calcium on the insects the first time you feed that day) and they should get Herptivite multi-vitamin 2 times a week (only on one feeding). If you have the MVB instead of a regular flourescent tube, then use calcium NO D3, and Herptivite.

A beardie can eat pheonix worms, butter worms, crickets, silkworms, tomato horn worms, dubia roaches, discoid roaches, waxworms, and superworms. Waxworms should be fed rarely, as they have no nutritional value, and are highly addictive. Superworms should be fed to beardies that are 1 year old, and 14+ inches.   A good site for ordering insects is http://www.mulberryfarms.com/  They are cheaper then the petstore. The insects (no matter where you get them) must be gutloaded with fresh fruits&veggies and/or commercial insect diets so they are more healthy for your beardie. Do NOT feed mealworms, they cause impaction.

The greens&fruits&veggies they can have are: Dandelion greens, Collard greens, Mustard greens, Turnip greens, Kale, Carrot tops (the green part), Endive, Cilantro, Escarole, Butternut squash, Yellow squash, mango, strawberry, blueberry, raspberry, and watermelon. Do NOT feed any lettuces or cabbage; these are bad for beardies. Also, fruits should only be offered once a week, because of the sugars in them.

Also, it is a good idea to give your beardie a bath at least once a week. More often is okay too. Place your beardie in a rubbermade container with lukewarm, shoulder deep water for 15-20 minutes. If your beardie poops, take him out right away, even if he's only been in there for a few minutes. If he panics, place your hand in the water for him to rest his front feet on. Test the temps of the water with the inside of your wrist; if it is too warm for a (human) baby, it is too warm for your beardie. Soaking at least once a week helps keep your beardie hydrated (they dehydrate rather easily), keeps him clean, and encourages regular bowel movements (they like to p**p in water.) It is also okay to keep a dish of water in the cage with your beardie, as long as it does not raise humidity too much (keep it on the cool side of the tank), and your beardie can get out of it easily without help. Change the water at least every other day, or sooner if it is pooped in. It is still a good idea to soak them in a tub though.

Good disinfectant for cages is diluted Nolvasan, which can be ordered off of http://www.proexotics.com/store/product....

Good Luck

Answer 5

Dont use sand at all, no matter what age! The beardie can injest it and it will clog the digestive tract. Use paper towels or clean dish towels on the bottom of the terrarium.

Beardie babys should be fed small crickets (that should be removed from the tank once it is done) and Kale, Romane

lettus, and other dark greens, along with fruit, (chopped up really small)

You should put a basking log and something to give it shade in its tank.

I highly reccomend doing online reasearch, then coming back and asking questions if you need further help.

There are websites that hold a lot of info and you wont get all the information you need in forums and answer boxes.

Answer 6

go to google and type in caring for bearded dragons- it will give you a nice selection to choose from- pet smart sells a book strictly on caring for bearded dragons and it is excellent- steer clear of the sand for a baby beardie dragon- you can use lizard litter, shredded news papers, felt mats-but do not use sand unless the package is marked nontoxic- safe for baby beardies- as far as caring for them they need 2 different types of light- a basking for the daytime and a infrared lamp for nights- you need to keep fresh water in the cage, and offer a variety of food such as lettuce, carrots, cucumbers, squash, cabbage (limit the amount fof iceberg lettuce because it is hard on the digestion system) and I would offer them crickets one to two times daily-count how many you feed the baby so you know how its eating habits are. You can also feed them mealworms but I would limit this to every other week- I have 3 types of cages- a huge terrarium and two 50 gal tanks. For a baby you can start off with a 10 gal tank. You need a fixture in which the lizard can lay on to bask and food/water dishes- I would stay away from the heating mats that go underneath the litter, sand, as these are known to cause burns to a baby lizard. You need to also purchase some cricket dust to dust the crickets in before you feed your baby at least one-two times a week as this provides essential nutrients, and finally you can also purchase beardie food that is prepackaged morsels.