I need help surfing?

Question

i have a 7"8 board and i just started surfing a month ago. i now get up on most waves i try, but the wave just takes me straight into shore. how can i ride in front of the wave as it is breaking like they do in the movies? do i need a shorter board or what. any tips would be nice, thank you.

also the waves are usually around 4 feet.

Answer 1

Paddle out past the breaking waves, sit on your board, when you see the wave you want spin around and start paddling to shore. As you catch the wave stand up and turn towards the un-broken part of the wave.

The Surfboard Man

http://www.thesurfboardman.com/

Answer 2

you are learning and that all comes down to aptitude and the understanding of waves shapes and formations you are riding the wash (the white water) and you are heading into shore because you aren't being critical with your ability and taking the time to be very critical with nyourself and your ability. you have to turn the board with your feet and stance and posture and make the board go right or left and then you need to take off on the face of the wave be it a right or a left and it doesn't matter if you are a reg or goofy foot just that you always expand the limitations and increase your abilities by doin something extra more better on each wave and as you paddle back out you critique your last wave understanding what you did right and what to improve on what it was you did wrong.

Answer 3

quit riding the whitewater and ride the face of the wave

Answer 4

if ur just startin out riding a long board or almost like a long board is good and smaller waves are good too it just takes practice it took me a couple months till i got a hang of it and know im sponsored

Answer 5

Do you know how to turn yet?  Riding the face of the wave takes experience and the ability to "feel" the wave.  Honestly, I figured out how to do it myself.

Also, are you catching "real" waves or just whitewater?  If you are catching waves (sitting in the line-up, seeing a wave, paddling, and catching it) then you are very close to riding the face.

Just keep surfing.  I remember the day I figured out how to turn and I was like: "Hey! I can do something with this!"

P.S. You can ride the face with any length surfboard silly!

P.S.S I don't really say "silly"

Answer 6

when the wave starts pushing you, get up and turn to the part of the wave that isnt breaking. it will be a much better and longer ride. but make sure not to hit other surfers and swimmers because that tends to happen when riding the face of the wave