I need to know how to install a GFCI outlet with switch to run my pool motor?

Question

It is a 15amp switch/outlet. I bought a new one, (same exact as old) and made all the connections the same as the old one and it is not working at all. I can't figure it out. Also, the circuit breaker inside the garage is also tripping when i turn on the juice.(electric)

Answer 1

NEC Article 680 gives all of the requirements for pool wiring; one of which is that all pool pumps must run on a 20 Ampere circuit with a minimum of #12 AWG copper conductors, in an approved raceway (not Type UF Cable, or EMT, for example) with a green insulated copper equipment grounding conductor that is at least #12 AWG. All pool pumps, heaters, any metallic pool parts and accessories, and any metal within 5 feet of the pool must also be bonded together with a minimum #8 AWG SOLID copper bonding conductor, using listed clamps, lugs, or exothermic welding (this includes any reinforcing steel in the pool, or in any surrounding patio or walking surface). Under the 2008 NEC, a bond must be provided to the pool water itself, & beneath a paver, stone, and even earthen walking surface to a point at least 3 feet away from the pool.

Besides having NEC requirements to comply with, pool pumps must comply with UL Standard 1081, which, sadly, a lot do not. That alone is worth the price of a service call to an electrician who is familiar with Article 680.

A GFCI receptacle, or dead-front GFCI device cannot be used as a pool control for motors over 1 H.P., those must be protected by a GFCI Circuit Breaker.

If the pool was installed in the 1960s, your installation may have been correct at the time, but the GFCI is a "Type-B". The pump will keep tripping a "Type-A" GFCI device because it allows far less "leakage current" than the "Type-B". The GFCI is allowed by Code to be replaced with the "Type-B" GFCI if that is the case; you will probably have to special order one. If the pump has been replaced, then the entire installation should be made to comply with current Code requirements.

What you really should do, is hire a qualified, licensed electrician to check out the pool installation and be sure it is done correctly and is Code compliant. That means, check out ALL pool related equipment, and replace it or install it correctly. This is not a "knock" on you, I fail pool inspections everyday that have been done by "Pros", they just don't follow the instructions, or don't know that part of the Code, or both.

Water, pool chemicals, children, and electricity are not a good combination under the best of circumstances; why take the risk when you obviously have a problem now that is beyond your means to diagnose and repair?

Even Temporary Pools (the NEC refers to them as "Storable Pools") have to meet their own set of Code requirements. Don't take chances with the lives or safety of others. NEC Article 90.1 (C) states that the Code is not intended as a "Do-it-Yourself" book.

Please, hire a qualified pro, and have the local Inspector check out the repairs before allowing anyone into your pool.

Answer 2

No offense but this sounds like a seasonal pool with a smallish motor?

   I've had pool homes for 36 years and every one had the pool pump motor directly tied to its own dedicated breaker, which was the "switch"

  You say the new was re-installed exactly the same, yet trips the breaker. Again with no offense, it sounds like it was not installed the same and it's shorting somewhere. You state it isn't working at all, but it certainly seems it is making some connections, even if the wrong ones.

  I've also never owned a home in those 36 years that didn't have all the GFCI receptacles or switches on their own dedicated breaker/breakers.

Just my two "sense"

Added note: Love the user name "Al" almost as much as Pope SiCola

Answer 3

I've had good luck with Bob Villa's website, give it a shot: http://www.bobvila.com/AskaQuestion/

Here is a thing from the goverment too: http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5039.ht...

Answer 4

Compare the old and new switches, they are different. You will need to know which wires are power and which are ground. The new switch should have a diagram in the box.

Answer 5

Disconnect it, then insulate the wire ends and turn the power on. If it still trips, it is time to call a qualified professional electrician. If the circuit is now energized and holding power, turn it back off and then reinstall the switch/outlet and try it again. The wire in the box may have been shorted or the installation of the outlet may have been reversed.  By removing and reinstalling it you have a clean starting point.   Why did you need to replace the old one?  If the circuit was tripping before, you will need to make the repairs before the circuit can be put back in service.