I want to get a gecko, heating problems!!??

Question

i really want to get a leopard gecko, i have a 20 gal tank but i am worried about the heating, (i live in uk btw,) i have a red bulb bourght from woolies, and a heat pad but no thermostat, i will put my heat pad under my tank and my tanks about a cm thick but i am worried about how to keep temp high in day and a little lower in the night but if i get a normal thermostat it will always be like high in night and day! i dunno wat to do how do people keep there temps in there tanks???!! how do you heat your tanks usually??!! thermostats are so expensive help anyone??!!!

Answer 1

You mentioned you already had an infrared bulb, you could turn it on in the day and turn it off at night. That creates a few degree difference in the daytime and nighttime temperatures. That's what I do for my leopard gecko's tank. You should get a digital thermometer if you don't already have one to monitor the temps in the tank.

Answer 2

First off, I'm supplying a link here which is very informative, but like all links - it contains information I don't agree with, as well.  Using play sand for Leos is just a bad idea, at any age.  Other than that one little fact - the rest is good information, especially the general care and cricket gut loading information.

Yes, thermostats are pricey.   Most of us breeders get away from that sort of thing, and instead use a thermometer (therm. gun is the most accurate/best investment... it reads the temp. where the animal actually IS/lives) to establish a warm corner/area with an under the tank heater You may have to adjust the distance from the bottom of the tank, to obtain the temp. you desire) or heat wire.  The gun is very helpful to determine the placement of basking lights, as well.  These tend to produce a lot of heat, and shouldn't be permitted to heat the floor to an unsafe temp.

From there, we simplify things by putting UVB and basking lights on timers (like you would use for a lamp when you're away.  'Much cheaper than thermostats).

All these things can be googled, and ordered on line.

Thus, when the lights go out - the substrate/under tank heater or heat tape provides a warm spot, while permitting the basking area to cool down, and lights go out to provide a night cycle.  With one additional setting - the basking light and UVB light come on again in the morning.  Voila~!

Since you are talking about a 20 gal. aquarium, I strongly recommend that you obtain only ONE Leopard Gecko.  And though it's maybe not what you envisioned; simple/plain is the safest/best.  Just aged newspaper for the floor, a small bowl w/lid and hole cut as an entrance for a moisture hide (be sure to burn the edges with a lighter, so the area you cut isn't jagged and won't injure your gecko's delicate skin).  A water bowl; a calcium bowl, a small paper towel lined box as a litter box (geckos tend to relieve themselves in just one area of the tank), and a small grotto/commercial hide (or make one from a small plastic box) is all your gecko needs.

The more cluttered the tank is; the harder it will be for your gecko to find his food, etc.

Be informed.  These adorable creatures can live 20 yr. and older, so educate yourself in order to provide him what he needs, and to simplify things for you as you care for him.

Enjoy your pet, and congrats on becoming a Leo owner.

I hope this has been helpful.

Answer 3

Unless the house temperature is very cold, you don't need a light of any kind.  Just use an under tank heat mat.  Plug it into a simple dimmer switch and adjust the temp that way.  Definitely use a digital probe thermometer to measure temps.  Here is a copy of my caresheet:

Minimum size tank for one leopard gecko is 10 gallons, but an adult will benefit from a 20 gallon or larger.  

A heat mat (under tank heater or UTH) needs to be attached under one end of the tank.  Leos warm up through belly heat, not heat from a lamp above (which is not recommended or needed).  The mat should be plugged into a thermostat (made for this) or a dimmer switch in order to adjust the temperature.  UTH mats often get over 100F, which is too hot.  A good temperature is 88-91F.  Use a digital probe thermometer to measure the basking temp.  These are sold as indoor/outdoor thermometers in most garden departments.  Set it to “outdoor” and place the probe on the inside bottom surface of the tank over the UTH mat end. You cannot use stick on or dial thermometers, as these only measure air temps and not basking temps.  They can be off by more than 20F!  Leos do not need UVB lighting.

Do NOT use sand or other loose substrate in the bottom of the tank!  Leos often eat this and can become fatally impacted in their intestines.  It is not natural for them to live in and be forced to eat in a small sand-filled environment which can harbor bacteria and parasites.



Provide a small dish of calcium powder which the gecko will l**k as needed.  A small bowl of water is also necessary.  

Leos need 3 hide boxes.  One should be placed over the warm end of the tank, one on the cool end, and the third should be a humid hide.  This is very important to help prevent shedding problems.  It can be as simple as a margarine container with a hole cut in the side (leave the lid on).  Fold a couple of paper towels in the bottom and keep them misted with water.  Your Leo will go into this as needed.  Keep the humid hide on the warm end of the tank.  Shedding problems include shed skin left on toes.  If this happens, the dead skin will constrict the blood flow, often leading to loss of toes.  

Feeding a variety of insects is always best.  In the wild they will many different types of insects.  Good choices include crickets, superworms, phoenix worms, silkworms, hornworms and occasionally wax worms (high in fat).  Mealworms may also be used for leopard geckos.  All insects must be properly “gutloaded” before being used as food.  This means providing correct food and water or moisture for them.  

For more info on care, health, and feeding of Leopard Geckos please check out http://www.drgecko.com/index.html.  It is my favorite web site and is very complete!  Also good is http://www.thegeckospot.com/shortleocare...

Answer 4

just use the heat pad. you really don't need the thermostat . and  all lighting is useless to leopard geckos.