If I use 10%ethanol will my o2 sensors see cleaner exhaust and up my gas ratio ?

Question

Just started seeing 10% stickers on gas pumps. Wont it burn cleaner with more 02 and increase fuel to air ratio messing with my gas milage.I know ethanol is 30% less efficiant than gasoloine which will lower my milage considerably.The ethanol is 10%.I dont want gas with ethanol im not a corn farmer. What a scam !05 silverado 5.3

Answer 1

All modern gas cars are compatible with 10% ethanol. You're right, ethanol contains less energy per gallon, so you're burning fuel with 3% less energy than normal.  (which would reduce your economy 3% obviously.)  

You're also right that unless the computer compensates for this, it will put your engine 3% lean which will make it pollute less HC/CO and more NOx.  However just about any engine with a computer is capable of making this small correction, including the early 1980's cars with computer controlled carburetors.  As long as they have an oxygen sensor and an M/C solenoid (that work), they'll do it.  

They won't work with 85% ethanol because that's around 25% less energy volume, and that's just too big a correction for the computer to make, it will interpret this as a broken sensor.  There, you have the secret of flex-fuel E85 cars - they simply are more tolerant.

I agree ethanol is pretty worthless as a fuel.  However one thing I'll say for it, it's being used as an additive to replace MBTE which was quite toxic, so good riddance.  Ethanol also attacks the older style of rubber fuel lines, so if your car's fuel lines are over 15 years old, get under there and replace them as a precaution.

Answer 2

I currently run ethanol (corn alcohol) in a 1999 Dodge 3500 truck. But all Cummins engines were modified from the factory to run on BioD since around 1992 without any modification.

Most vehicles are already equipped to run on Alternative Energy. In fact you’re probably even driving one right now and didn’t even know it. Go to www agua-luna com for a list of this vehicles

The following are a couple types of products to make ethanol easily. There are however many materials one can use including sugar cane, corn, wood, etc. The information was cut directly from a guide I offer at www agua-luna com, it is complete but if anyone’s interested in other types of foods to use or a more specific step by step of the process, including building your own still legally, visit www agua-luna com

"THE usual sources of raw material for alcohol Ethanol production from starch are cereal grains such as corn, wheat, rye, barley, milo (sorghum grains), rice, etc. Other types of starch are available from potatoes of all kinds, Jerusalem artichokes, and other high-starch vegetables. Starch conversion is the standard method of production and the one we will discuss here.

It is possible, however, to make alcohol from sugar-producing plants (saccharine material) such as sugar beets, sugarcane, fruits, and others. These substances need no milling (as do grains), but they do require some kind of grinding or squeezing process. Rapid, efficient fermentation of these sugars has not been as well explored as the process using starch.

A third source of fermentables is cellulose, as found in wood and waste sulphite liquor. This more complex process requires the use of acids to reduce the material to wood sugars. Consequently, most do-it-yourselfers should stick to either starch or sugar.

MILLING

All grains must be ground before mashing to expose the starch granules and help them remain in suspension in a water solution. The grain should be ground into a meal -- not a flour! -- that will pass a 20-mesh screen. On a hammermill, however, a 3/16" screen will suffice.

Potatoes and similar high-moisture starch crops should be sliced or finely chopped. Since potato starch granules are large and easily ruptured, it isn't necessary to maintain the hard rapid boil which is required of the tougher, dryer "flinty" starches found in grains.

CONVERSION WITH ENZYMES

For small batches (5 bushels or less), fill the cooker with water (30 gallons per bushel), and add the meal slowly, to prevent lumps from forming. (When, cooking with steam, or at higher temperatures, it is possible to save energy by using less water at the beginning. But for the "small batcher" with an ordinary cooking apparatus, the most complete conversion is obtained by using the full amount of water right from the start to encourage a rapid rolling boil.)

Next, add 3 measuring spoons -- as provided -- per bushel of Alpha Amylase Enzyme (mixed in water) to the mixture and raise the temperature of the mash to 170 deg F (77 deg C), the optimum working environment for the enzyme. Hold the solution at that temperature for 15 minutes while agitating it vigorously.

At this point all the starch available at 170 deg F has been converted to dextrins, so it's time to raise the temperature of the mash to the boiling point. The concoction should be liquid enough to roll at its own rate -- if not, add 2 to 3 gallons of water. Hold the boil for 30 minutes to complete the liquefaction stage. All the starches are now in solution.

Now reduce the temperature to 170 deg F, using the cooling coil, and add 3 more measuring spoons per bushel of Alpha Amylase Enzyme (mixed in water). After 30 minutes of agitation at this temperature, all the previously released starches will have been reduced to dextrins, thereby completing primary conversion.

During secondary conversion the dextrins are further reduced to simple sugars (maltose and glucose) by the beta, or -- to be more exact -- glucoamylase enzymes. You need Alpha Amylase Enzyme and the yeast necessary to carry out secondary conversion and proper fermentation simultaneously, you can add 6 measuring spoons per bushel of the fermentation powder (mixed in water) as soon as you've brought the temperature down to 85 deg F (29 deg C) using the cooling coils."

Hope this helped, feel free to contact me personally if you have any questions if you’d like assistance in making your first self sufficient steps, I’m willing to walk you step by step threw the process. I’ve written several how-to DIY guides available at  www agua-luna com on the subject. I also offer online and on-site workshops, seminars and internships to help others help the environment.

Dan Martin

Alterative Energy / Sustainable Consultant, Living 100% on Alternative & Author of How One Simple Yet Incredibly Powerful Resource Is Transforming The Lives of Regular People From All Over The World... Instantly Elevating Their Income & Lowering Their Debt, While Saving The Environment by Using FREE ENERGY... All With Just One Click of A Mouse...For more info Visit:  

www AGUA-LUNA com

Stop Global Warming, Receive a FREE Solar Panels Now!!!

Answer 3

You shouldn't have to worry since 'cleaner' exhaust doesn't contain more oxygen, it just contains less of certain exhaust compounds with a little more water vapor.

Your oxygen sensors won't know the difference.

And, actually despite ethanol's lower energy concentration, a small amount doesn't effect mileage at all.  Having ethanol in your gas helps the gas to vaporize a little easier, as well as keeping it from absorbing a lot of water - both of which can also rob mileage.