Im getting a turtle and i seem confused?

Question

i no tortoises can go on land for a long time but can turtles do the same because i looked on google and some people did let there turtle go on land the walk around ?

Answer 1

are you talking about the little water turtles?

You should leave it in a tank (or pond) that has space for it to be in water and a dry area. They like going on both.

They also like walking around in land.

I have one now, and I let it walk around in my patio.

But you have to be very careful! They walk fast and could get lost. You have to constantly be watching them.

And don't let it stay out too long!

have fun =)

Answer 2

All turtles can walk on land, but to what degree varies by species.  All Turtles lay their eggs on land.  Most can be out of water for hours, but will need to be returned to water at some point.  Ask the pet storeowner or research the species before you buy.  One good way to tell how adepted a turtle is to walking on land is to look at its feet.  If they look claw like then the Turtle can maneuver on land with more ease.  If they look like flippers then chances are they do not get out of the water much.  Many Turtles can be tamed and handled easily, Sliders, Read ears ect.  Many cannot, Snappers, Musk, and Soft Shelled.  You must always wash hands thoroughly after handling because of risk salmonella infection.

Answer 3

First off, many kuddos for doing your research BEFORE you get the reptile.

I prefer to never have my turtles on land outdoors.  All my pet turtles are captive bred (and parasite/disease free).  

My rescue turtles are removed from the wild for care (mostly wild - sometimes I get pet ones), and kept quarantined and well away from my pet turtles.  They are returned to the wild when healed, or placed in educational programs to teach the young, if the turtle is too damaged to live in the wild again.

You will need to continue your research on this topic, before you decide if you want a tortoise (land) or water turtle for a pet.  Especially research the diseases which can be in the ground where a cat has eliminated.  Exposure to contaminated ground can kill your turtle (lizards and snakes, too).  Even bird dropping can introduce parasites into the pen.  So, do some research and make an informed decision.

If you choose to take your turtle outside; I recommend that you hold them, or provide an enclosed pen which animals can't get in, and be sure to treat the soil, or even replace it with baked soil (consult your vet on this topic).  Wire pens can be covered with tarps when not in use, to prevent contamination from birds.  There are many ways to provide a safe outside enclosure for your pet, and you can google for the information, and safely expose your pet to a few hours of nature's sunshine, providing it's not too hot for the reptile.

As for water turtles on the land for a long time?  Well, that depends.  In the wild, water turtles sometimes have to cover a lot of ground.  A male will leave one pond where all the females are mated, and search for another with receptive females.  Or, if the food supply dwindles, or the water source is drying up - then the turtles will travel over land to another water source.

But, in general, water turtles do not feel secure unless they are very close to water.  They might climb onto a limb in the early summer morning or evening, and bask for hours.  But, the slightest sound/movement, and they dive for safety!  Also, if they over-heat, they will slide into the water to drop their temperature again, before returning to basking.  They must be able to regulate their temperatures.

So, if you are asking if you can keep a water turtle outside in the sun without cool water?  The answer is no.  He would need an outside pond which isn't too shallow, and doesn't get too hot, if you want him to live outdoors.

Be sure you research the turtle/tortoise of your choice from hatching right on up to becoming an adult, so you know what you're getting into, and how much space it will eventually need.  Providing for the needs of a baby is different than the needs for adult.

Most turtles eat crickets, so just in case - I'll post a basic gut loading recipe here for you.  But, from there - diet will depend on the particular animal you select as your pet, and you will have to research it.

GUT LOADING CRICKETS for REPTILES:

The number one problem:

Dried up and malnourished pet store crickets and mealworms. These food items are essentially useless. A dehydrated and unfed cricket contains almost no nutrients at all; refrigerated mealworms are even worse. A lot of the variety in nutrients found in wild insects is actually in the stomach content - usually plant material. We need to duplicate this to provide the best for our reptiles; without the risk of illness/disease/parasites which can result from feeding our pets wild insects.

Please note that wax worms, while fattening, are not nutritious.

Basic Dry/Staple Cricket Food:

Equal amounts of dry Iguana food, dry dog food, chick starter mash, oatmeal (you can add dry baby food wheat/rye/barley, etc. as well; even shredded wheat - no sugar).

Grind these items together.  Place in a small lid/bowl for the crickets to eat.  Store the unused portion in the refrigerator or freezer, until needed.

Supplement daily with one of the following: sweet potato, bananas, zucchini, oranges, carrots, strawberries, assorted squashes (acorn, yellow, etc.), grapefruit, green beans, apples, kale, spinach, cactus pads, and just about any other nutritious item you can think of (do not use white/yellow potatoes - these are starchy and only good if used as a moisture source during shipping, and NEVER use Avocado - it's poisonous to most animals).

Provide the dry food and kale at all times (kale is readily available during the winter months, too), rotating the other food items through in succession. The key is variety, and to provide an assortment of varying nutrients. What you are trying to do is offer your reptiles crickets with guts 'loaded' with fresh foodstuffs.

The crickets should be gut loaded for 1-2 days prior to offering them to your reptiles.

Also, provide fresh clean water in a lid/bowl, adding a sponge or folded paper towel to prevent drowning.

  

Don't offer more crickets than the reptile(s) will consume within: 1.) a few hours if it’s a lizard, salamander, frog/toad, or 2.) a few minutes, if it’s a water turtle, so you know the crickets will still be full of the good stuff when eaten.

The crickets should be dusted (shaken in a plastic bag gently to coat them) with vitamins (keep these refrigerated) and calcium D3 powder 2-4 times a week, depending on the age of the reptile.

Be sure to remove any uneaten crickets so that they do not soil your pet's environment/water or bother your pet, once it is full.  Crickets CAN turn the table - and feast upon your pet! Or aggravate them, causing stress and even cessation of eating.

Also be sure the crickets are the correct size for the reptile.  The cricket should be the same size long as the reptile’s head is wide.

Any new animal should be checked by a vet for general health, parasites, and diseases (so you can take it back to the place of purchase while the guarantee is in effect, if there is a problem).  For a reptile vet in the city of your state, contact “herpetologicalsocieties.com“.

Again, kuddos on researching FIRST.  Enjoy your pet!

I hope this has been helpful.

Answer 4

It all depends on what species of turtle you're getting. Can't you ask the place where you're getting it from, just what you should do with it?