In referense to surfing, can you define these breaks?

Question

What does it mean

Beach Break

Point Break

Reef Break

and if you can think of any other brreaks if you could define them that would help me a lot too

thanks a lot :)

Answer 1

Basically, the height of the wave will determine where it will "break," in reference to the depth of the water. As the wave approaches an area of decreasing depth, the bottom will create a "drag" on the wave, causing undertow and the breaking effect of the wave. Any area of decreased depth will cause this effect, whether natural or man-made. A reef, point, or beach are all areas where waves may break, because the bottom is a lot closer to the surface, disrupting the wave form. The only difference is the geographic structure that is causing the wave to break. As a surfer, you may know that different types of breaks behave differently: different shapes of shoreline, different incoming wave patterns, but it's all physics. The different names seem to be pretty straightforward. Beach break: caused by a gradual shoreline. Reef break: caused by a reef. Point break: caused by a point or jute of land.

Answer 2

A beach break is a place like Jalama beach. here's a link to look at that

http://www.jalamabeach.com/sitebuilder/i...

It's just a straight stretch of beach where the waves break. Watch out though, s lot beach breaks can be crappy like they close out (break in front of you and behind you) a bunch.

A point break is a point in the coast where the waves brake kind of perpendicular to the shore. Rincon is a prime example of that.

http://www.santabarbarasurfschool.com/im...

and a reef break just means that the waves break anywhere from a few inches to a few feet on top of a reef and that's partially because waves brake in shallow water where the momentum of the swell is forced up to form a bump, or what's known as a wave in the water.

technically, a reef break could be a beach break or a point break because there can be a reef at either one of those kinds of breaks... But there are surf spots way out in the ocean that are reef breaks like Shark Park off the coast of Santa Barbara, but you wouldnt want to surf there because that's a really gnarly big wave spot.

http://www.surfersvillage.com/gal/pictur...

yea... that's shark park. that guy is screwed.

Answer 3

Beach breaks are typically caused by shifting sand bars and lack defined take off areas.  They tend to move around alot and often times will break in both directions at once (an A-frame).   If they are adjacent to a structure such as a pier or jetty they can mimic a point break.

Reef breaks are exactly what they sound like.  Since the bottom is always in the same spot they tend to be more sensitive to what direction the swell is coming from but also tend to be fairly predictable.

Point breaks are off of outcroppings on the coast line.  They are very predictable with typically tight take off areas and usually only go in one direction.

Tidal bore - A wave which travels upstream from a river  mouth due to large fluctuations in tides.  Youtube "Pororoca"

Standing wave - A wave on a river which doesn't move, caused by backflow over a drop.  Youtube "Munich surfing"

Wavepool - sucky artificial wave

Answer 4

beach break is an area that is usually all sand on the bottom, as opposed to a reef break which may contain coral, and or rocks. A point break is a break that is usually at the top or point of any part of the land that juts out, like the top of a bay for example.