Info from experienced pepl on rats!?

Question

need info on rats, im getting 2 and i want info from experienced pepl! ex:) info on the cage accesories, on rat behavior and do's and dont's plz!

thanks =)

Answer 1

well i am a rodentologist so i am pretty fit to help you all i can say is that you need to get two, until you say your getting two then i won't help you

Answer 2

Myth #1: Rats are dirty, disease carriers

Not at all. In fact, rats are the cleanest of all the rodents. They clean themselves head to toe on average of about 6 times a day. They do this by l*****g their paws and then running it through their fur. Often times they will help clean their cage mates as well. It’s also not unusual for rats to want to clean themselves after you’ve held them so that they can get your “grime” off of themselves. Rats are also very meticulous housekeepers. They will arrange their toys just the way they like it and only do their “business” on one side of their cage, so they don’t get the rest of it dirty. This is part of why they are so easy to litter box train. They do need an occasional bath, but all animals do. Disease should not be a problem if you buy your rat from a pet store or a rat breeder. Sometimes they can get illnesses, but in most cases they are not contagious.

Myth #2: Rats are not social animals

This myth is 100% false. Rats are very social creatures, which is why it is recommended to buy two. When a person first gets a rat, they need to spend at least 2 hours with the rat(s) daily. After the first 2-4 weeks, this time can be reduced to about 1 hour a day, unless you only have one rat. In this case, it is recommended to spend 2-4 hours with it daily. If you do not spend time with your rat(s), it can become depressed, which can be fatal. If you spend time with your rat(s) daily, it will form a bond with you. Whenever it sees you coming, it will run to the cage door to greet you. They will always want to play with you, and love being around you. Some people even compare their relationships with rats to that of a dog. Most rats also adjust to change quite well and are good around other people because of their personalities.

Myth #3: Rats are not intelligent

Yes, rats are very clever. They are actually the smartest of all the rodents (along with cleanliness). Most rats learn their names and how to come when called within days. Several can learn basic tricks, such as jumping through a hoop or going through a maze. In fact, rats can be trained how to use a litter box, like a cat. Most rats are actually happy to use a litter box to keep their homes clean. Because rats are so smart, it is why they are used many times in science experiments.

Myth #4: Rats bite a lot

This myth can vary, depending on the rat, but for the most part, rats do not bite. It is not in their nature. Some will if they feel pressured, insecure, frightened, stressed, etc. You usually have to just relax the rat and it should be fine. Fight or Flight. If this behavior continues, it is advised to see a veterinary professional. Now, biting should not be confused with nibbling/nipping. Often times a rat will nibble at your palm or finger. This can be for a variety of reasons. It could be just simply trying to get your attention, or it may be a bit nervous. If you are handling a rat that you’ve bonded with, it can be the ultimate rat compliment. When a rat grooms itself, it will often nip at its coat, or that of another cage mate. This is basically what it is doing to you. If your rat is doing this, it means that it accepts you as an equal. They could also be “exploring” you to get used to you, since they have such poor eyesight. This can also become a problem if you start feeding your rat through the bars of its cage. It will start to recognize your fingers as food, and may begin to get the two mixed up, resulting in it trying to “eat” your finger.

Myth #5: Rats are nocturnal, and noisy at night

This is only a half true myth. Yes, rats are in fact nocturnal, which is why they can be great family pets. They will sleep during the day while the family is away at work and school. But, rats can also change their sleeping habits to suit yours. They will be up and willing to play when they know you are. For example, if you wake up at 6:30 and leave for work at 7:30, they will be up during that time to see you. Depending on the rat, they can be noisy, but are relatively quiet. This can be fixed by placing them in another room, getting them a new wheel that doesn’t squeak, switching their toys, etc.

Rats don’t need much, but here is a list of the necessary equipment when owning one.

•A cage

•Food, including: a staple diet (dry food), lab blocks, and fresh fruits & veggies

•Bedding

•Water Bottle and Food dishes

•Litter Pan

•Litter

•Several toys (these need to be switched often to keep the rat stimulated)

•Things to chew on (to keep their teeth at the appropriate length)

•A vet that treats pocket pets

There are also several things that are not necessary, but are nice to have for your rat.

•A nesting box/“hideaway”

•A wheel

•A roaming ball

•Treats (these help when training your rat)

•Vitamins

•Cage cleaner

•Shampoo/wipes for your rat

•A leash/harness

•An extra mini cage (while their cage is being cleaned)

•A travel cage/bag (for trips to the vet - this can also be the same as your mini cage)

Basic Rat Information

• Life Expectancy: 2-5 years

• Size: 6-10 inches (with the tail being 6-8 inches)

• Experience Level: Beginner

• Ages 8+

Housing

Because of rats’ active, curious, and playful nature, they need a large cage that will keep them entertained. It is advised to get them a cage with at least one extra floor or balcony.  A minimum of 2 cubic feet per rat is suggested. Some people tend to use aquariums, but this is not the way to go. When aquariums are used to house rats, they do not get the proper ventilation, resulting in respiratory disease. A wire cage is recommended to house your ratties. The bars of its cage should be about ½” apart, because otherwise your rat could escape. Its cage should not have a wire bottom or wire balconies. This is hard on rats’ feet, and they can become stuck. They can obtain a condition on their paws called bumblefoot if they walk on wire surfaces. The cage shown here can house up to four rats.

Diet

Rats are pretty flexible when it comes to their diet, however there are certain things that they need and certain things to look out for. They need a staple diet, which is the main thing that they eat. It’s mainly just small, dry pellets mixed with dry corn, seeds, oats, alfalfa, etc. You do need to watch what parts of the dry food your rat eats to make sure they aren’t picking and choosing certain ingredients. If so, they could be skipping out on certain vitamins and minerals that they require. Some people feed their rat cat food, which is not good. It is too high in protein for them. Then they need what are called lab blocks. These are thick, hard pellets. These are essential because they help keep their ever-growing teeth to the length they should be.

Rats daily need fresh fruits and veggies as well. Although they cannot be given too much, or it can result in diarrhea. About 1 teaspoon, or one ½” block should be enough. Fruits should only be given as treats about 1-2 times a week. Veggies (esp. leafy greens) should be given about 4-6 times a week. Always remove uneaten fruits and veggies that have been there for at least 12 hours to avoid tummy aches.



Here’s a list of safe foods for your rat:

• Fruit: apples, cherries, grapes, bananas, strawberries, other berries, melons, plums

• Veggies: broccoli, potatoes, peas, carrots, cooked sweet potato, kale, parsley, bok choy, squash, yams, leafy greens, carrots

• Cooked lean meats

• Whole wheat pasta and bread

• Cheese

• Cooked beans

• Yogurt (esp. w/ live cultures)

• Brown rice

• Unsweetened breakfast cereals

• Mealworms

• Treats: nuts, sunflower seeds (very fatty though), carob chips, unsalted/unbuttered popcorn, pizza crust, etc.

There are also several foods that can be lethal to your pet rat. These include:

• Chocolate

• Raw beans

• Raw sweet potato

• Cabbage

• Brussel Sprouts

• Green Potatoes

• Green Beans

• Oranges

• Sweet sugary treats and any other kinds of junk food

• Caffeinated or carbonated beverages

Potty Time

Rats can be potty trained, sometimes in a matter of days. When you decide to potty train your rat, keep a close eye on it first for a couple of days. Usually rats will choose a certain area/corner of its cage to eliminate waste in. Once a general area is located, place a litter pan there (of course with litter in it). It is very important that you use separate litter and bedding, to establish what is the bathroom and what is living space for your rat. So they recognize it’s the toilet, put their droppings and wet bedding in the litter box, then also place your rat in the box.  Whenever you catch you rat using it as an actual litter pan, reward it with treats and extra petting. When you catch it going elsewhere, say “No” in a firm voice, then place it in the litter box. Eventually, it will catch on.

Cleaning

Rats’ cages need to be cleaned every 5-9 days, or else they can begin to smell. First, all of the toys and accessories need to be removed and individually wiped down with warm soapy water. Then, remove the rats and place them in another cage, or other contained area. Throw out all of the bedding (which needs to be changed every 2-3 days, along with litter) and wipe down all of the surfaces of the cage, including the shelves. You can buy cleaner especially for this purpose. Then you can return the cage back to normal and place your rats back in it. You don’t need to clean the actual rats often. Males do tend to acquire an orange-ish discharge on their skin, which can be avoided if you use fur cleaning wipes on them once every 1-2 weeks. These are available at PetSmart.

Answer 3

http://www.dapper.com.au/

This site should help you.

Answer 4

I use to have a rat. I kept her in a glass cage with wood shavings. She would eat rat food and occasional fruit. They love yogurt treats. Rats like those shelter in thier cages where they can hide. I tried to use the huge rat ball for her to walk around but she wasn't liking it haha. My rat was very smart she would come when she was called. If you spend alot of time with your new rats they will become attached to you too.

Answer 5

I have a website on rat care?: http://www.petinfopackets.com/rats/ratin...

Answer 6

rats are awesome pets.  i would recommend getting them from an animal shelter because pet stores are not often adequate caregivers to their animals.  if you are getting two males make sure they are neutered.  if you don't want babies get same s*x pairs.  i would recommend wire cages because they are More ventilated.  make sure their is a food bowl, a water bottle, a hidey safe place, and lots of toys!  get the biggest cage you can afford and put it somewhere away from draft and direct sunlight.  rats are very affectionate and rarely bite.  they will groom you with love and you will be pleasantly surprised.  good Luck!

Answer 7

Two rats are always best!! Always remember that. If you want two boys then expect a typical lazy boy who loves a cuddle or three, if you choose two girls then expect cheeky girls with only jumping and chasing in mind. When getting either boy/girl you need toys and wooden chews. Dog ropes are great and rats Will play with almost anything. Most rats dont bite and most are tame, but you should get them out everyday for at least 30mins in a confined  space to give them room to exercise.