Information on surfing!?

Question

Normally if a person just hit a wave, they would bob up and down.

How can surfers ride the waves then?

Answer 1

Not true! Wave action is capable of moving all sorts of things. That's why bodies wash ashore. I won't go into a big deal on the physics of wave action, but that info is available on line. Also, surfers are sliding across the face of the wave, taking advantage of the kinetic energy generated by the the wave action. You can "surf" a wave by body surfing, or on a surfboard, or on a surfboat, or hanging onto an inner tube. The physics is all the same, the wave riding vehicle is all that's diff rent.

I have been surfing since '66, but I was body surfing since about '58, when I was in first grade. I didn't know what physics meant.

Answer 2

you have to paddle to almost the speed of the wave, and catch it in the right place and it carries you with it. you have to be on the steeper part of the wave.

Answer 3

We watch the ocean, once the waves break, you start paddling along , then the wave will rise taking you with it along to ride.

Answer 4

You paddle with the wave going towards the shore, then when you don't need to paddle any longer the wave will take you.  The wave will then start to retract, you stand and you are actually going against the power of the wave.  Then you need to move your body around to make the board move.

Answer 5

because we paddle into it! if you are paddleing at a speed close the the waves speed that you pop up right before it breaks and can surf it. if you don't have a board you can still swim surf it. just swim really hard and the wave will take you in!