Question:

Is it possible to install laminate "hardwood" flooring in a basement?

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Currently having an argument w/my new father-in-law about this :( My husband & I want to install laminate "hardwood" in our basement. It is a finished walkout basement. So the whole thing truly isn't underground anyway.

This is the house I grew up in, so I know from 35yrs experience that the basement has *never* experienced any sort of flooding or other water/moisture damage. In our remodeling, we had to remove/replace a lot of the drywall ~ so we were able to view the foundation & it is very secure & sound ~no signs of water damage.

Yet father-in-law keeps insisting that moisture would be a problem w/the sort of floor we want to install. He also insists that humidity would be a problem ~ siting the fact that ever since we bought a dehumidifier for the basement, we have to empty it at least once a day. However, we live in the midwest & it is summertime! Humidity is a problem *everywhere* not just down in the basement ~ but he didn't think this was a valid point :(

So ~ does anyone have experience w/laminate "hardwood" flooring in a basement? Advice?

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  1. I get asked this question all the time. Basements are notorious for collecting water. Before you purchase and install basement flooring, put a large tarp or several trash bags on your basement floor in the center of the room and in the corners. Tape them down tightly so no air gets in. After 24 hours, look underneath the bags and see if any moisture has collected. If it's wet, you have moisture seeping through the concrete. You need to get this fixed before you buy flooring. If you don't, the moisture will destroy your flooring and mold or mildew will collect underneath your new flooring. Once you have a dry basement, you can proceed. The main cause of warping is moisture weakens the adhesive and causes it to buckle.

         Engineered flooring is made of high-density fiberboard core and several different layers of hardwood. The thickness of this flooring keeps it from warping. Laminate flooring looks like hardwood, but it's made of moisture resistant materials. It's also sturdier than hardwood and won't knick or ding as easily as hardwood.

        climates, such as the Midwest, East and South, are susceptible to high humidity contents. This means that no matter what you do, there will be some moisture in your basement. In these climates, the homeowner should use porcelain or ceramic tile flooring. These materials are more water resistant and work well in areas with high water content. That's why you see them in bathrooms. Make sure to either use a water resistant adhesive or sub floor when installing this basement floor. These two products will help protect your basement flooring from coming loose. For added protection you can install duocore plywood, its basicly plywood over a plastic grid that allows air/water movement.  

      Sump pump with backup is always a good idea, because if you have a high water table or that one bad storm your going to have an issue.  I remodel basements all the time because of this.  


  2. If the floor is dry and level, you can do it.

    I recommend a "floating" hardwood laminate floor... it's easy to install, just snaps together (basically) and looks great. No nailing! (except perimeter moldings). Buy the thicker than standard undercushion.

  3. With the proper underlayment, you should have no problems.

    Ask an Expert at the Hardware Store, which product would be suited well for you.

    Have fun doing it. We have done it and absolutely love it.

    Ingrid


  4. For use in a basement, the flooring used must be engineered hardwood flooring. Engineered hardwood flooring is made of 3-5 layers of different hardwoods. Each layer is oriented 900 to the surrounding layers. This prevents expansion, contraction, warping and cupping from moisture. The layers are glued together and laminated under high heat and pressure to bond them together.

    Engineered basement hardwood flooring can be glued to the substrate or "float" over it. Since the engineered hardwood is going over a concrete slab, nailing is not an option. What type of system used is up to the homeowner and how large of a budget they may have.




  5. Sorry but daddy in law is right on this one. To prove my point look at the warranty sheet on any wood flooring engineered or solid. Read it and you will see a disclaimer about *sub-grade applications.

    Wood flooring is like a dry sponge. It soaks up water vapor in the air, and this floor will also.

    We had a customer who insisted on doing this in her basement. I refused to have my sub install it, she found someone who did. Her basement looked dry, no water marks on walls or floor, not even a dehumidifier. Within 6 months she called me asking what to do with this floor as it was creaking when walked on. Her original installer would not call her back.

    Here is what happened.

    The glue had failed and was no longer sticking to the concrete. We pulled up a small section of the flooring. The glue was adhered well to the flooring but over time it was not sticking to the concrete. There was a strong musty smell as we pulled the floor up.

    If you must go ahead, try this proven test for moisture.

    Take 4 pcs.of aluminum foil about 12" long by roll size. Tape all edges down to concrete floor in 4 different locations. Use duct tape.

    Wait 2 days and then pull up foil. look for moisture on concrete or on underside of foil test pcs. Any - Any moisture tells you not to install this floor. Even a floating non-glue application of laminate flooring needs this test.

    Your Father in law may seem intrusive , but he knows what moisture can do to these types of floor.

  6. Engineered or laminate flooring is recommended over "real" wood flooring for basements. You will need to install the proper moisture barrier under it. One way to check the moisture level in the floor is to tape a one foot square of plastic or aluminum foil to the floor making sure all sides are sealed. Wait 24 hours and then remove it. If the side on the floor is wet, you will know there is moisture in the concrete. Most basements have high humidity due to limited air flow.

  7. I don't have experience with it but I know it can be done.  There is some kind of underlay that you put down first  

  8. Laminate hardwood flooring is mostly plastic resin,which would not be affected by moisture or humidity...

    If you were using straight hardwood flooring , you might need a vapor barrier between the flooring and concrete floor.....

  9. To help find out if  unseen moisture is a potential problem , tape down some alum foil w/ duct tape.. Leave for a minimum 24 hours.. Lift and check you ll see if theres moisture.. If not , any type of flooring can be used..The foam pad , though used to let the floor  float, will aid in your moisture arguement.. Don t rely on this as a moisture barrier it s not ment to be. I ve installed many a basement laminate floors   GL

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