Is the rating of indoor rock climbing the same as sport climbing?

Question

I mean for example, if I am a level 5.8 in indoor climbing, am I the same level outdoors?

Answer 1

The ratings should be close but, it depends entirely on the route setter.  Some indoor route setters will rate to be comparable to the outdoors.

I've saw others rate indoor routes higher than they should be so that climbers climb who can in reality only climb a 5.9 appear to be climbing a 5.10.  It has to do with marketing, and keeping people interested in the "business" of climbing.  

If it appears that you're climbing a 5.10 you will feel like you're accomplishing something more than if you climb a 5.9 (therefore you'll more likely climb at that wall vs. the competitors).  Marketing has proven that this technique brings in more business.  Some may think that this is unethical, but it happens.

The other part to this, is that route ratings are completely subjective and are based upon the route setters climbing skill and route scoring skill/experience.

Likewise, a climbers skill with certain rock types, features, skills, practice, etc. can affect what you would score a route.  A good example of this is comparing a normal 5.10 route to a 5.10 slab.  I bet alot a great climbers would not like a 5.10 slab if they weren't skilled with slab.

I hope this has answered your questions!

Have fun1

Answer 2

Theoretically, yes they should be the same. Of course, there is a lot of subjective opinion when rating a climb.

Indoor climbing is very constant and controlled which should make a 5.8 route in the gym easier to climb, but gym climbers don't give as much credit for overhang and small holds as they do outdoors.

The reasons that some outdoor climbs may be harder than rates is that they have varied type (part crack, part face, part slab, etc) and also some climbs were rated many years ago when 5.10 was the hardest. I've been on a very old 5.8 route that will make your teeth chatter, but at the time 5.9 was the hardest route ever rated. Sometimes these ratings are updated, sometimes they are not.

Good Luck

Answer 3

Climbing grades are often subjective and relative, especially the Yosemite decimal grading system. Which is what we use here in the US

Indoor ratings may be a good indicator as the what you can climb in the outdoors but typically Outside grades are or seemingly harder because of many factors i.e. exposure, natural features, your ability to read real rock rather then look for obvious hand holds. And if your a lead climber you can amplify all of those differences even more.

Answer 4

it should be about the some but it depends on the person wha set the route and the person who  graded it.