Just bought my first inboard/outboard 6 cyl 5.0 mercruiser. Not sure about winterizing?

Question

All boats I've previously owned were outboards,when season ended we forced grease thru foot for winterizing. This mercruiser seems basically the same. Is the winterizing the same? Can you connect the heater wire wraps to the foot for even more peace of mind? Heater wire wraps are simply a wire running thru an insulater that gives off a nominal amount of heat,mostly used on outside water pipes.

Answer 1

i think a5.0 is 1 v8

Answer 2

its called heat tape from were I come from. I/O are alot more to Winterize you have to drain the water jakets its a great time to change the oil. drain all water out of engine and out drive run the motor out of gas, add satbil to gas tank,cover and put everything away. grease the hubs on the trailer.Its a good idea to put a battery tender in or on the bat. never put a battery on concrete if you take out of boat.

Answer 3

It's a very easy process! Usually takes about an hour and you save around $100 doing it yourself! I have a Merc 4.3LX V-6, the most difficult part is changing the oil filter as there is little room to work with. You will need a special pump that hooks up to your dip-stick tube, this will suck all the oil out of the engine, can pick this up at a boating supply store or auto store

any where from $20-200, depends on the style you like(it should last for as long as you own your boat, if not for ever).

If you don't have a owners manual, get one, it gives you step by step instructions, and is easy to understand.

Answer 4

Start the engine and allow it to warm to normal operating temperature.

CAUTION: Water must circulate through the stern drive to the engine any time the engine is run to prevent damage to the water pump in the stern drive. Just a short while without water can damage the pump.

If the engine is equipped with a closed or fresh-water cooling system, check the anti- freeze.

Add rust inhibitor if the anti-freeze has been used for more than one season.

If the solution is contaminated; flush and re- place with a new mixture of 50/50 ethylene glycol and water.

Stop the engine, drain the oil in the crankcase, and remove the oil filter.

Install a NEW filter element; and then fill the crankcase with the prescribed weight and amount of oil.

Start the engine and allow it to run at a high idle for a few minutes.

Stop the engine and check the oil level as indicated on the dip stick.

Some amount of oil may remain in the engine without draining down into the crankcase.

A slightly lower reading may be indicated on the dip stick.

Add only enough oil to bring the reading into the safe running range above the ADD mark to allow for the amount of oil still in various areas of the engine.

Add the recommended amount of 2+4 Fuel stabilizer to fuel tank and fill tank with fuel to prevent condensation build-up over winter.

Start the engine and run it at a fast idle.

Remove the flame arrestor and SLOWLY pour about a pint of 20-20W SAE oil into the carburetor air intake while running the engine at a fast idle.

Pour the last 4 or so ounces in fast enough to shut motor down or turn it off immediately.

Order storage and fogging spray or it can be purchased at your local Boat shop to spray in carburetor and in spark plug holes instead of 20-20W oil.

Clean the fuel filter and sediment bowl. Install the bowl with a NEW gasket.

Clean the flame arrestor in solvent, and then blow it dry with compressed air.

Lubricate the steering, throttle, and shift control linkage.

Remove all of the spark plugs and squirt about a teaspoonful of 20-20 oil or spray Fogging oil into each cylinder.

Crank the engine over several times to allow the oil to coat the cylinders.

Remove any excess oil from around the spark plug holes, and then install the spark plugs.

If the engine is equipped with a raw-water cooling system, open all of the engine and manifold water jacket drains.

Allow the water to drain completely.

ALWAYS have the stern drive in a horizontal position when draining the system to ensure all of the water is able to leave the system.

If the stern drive is not horizontal, water will be trapped inside.

Leave all of the drains open.

Disconnect the water hoses at the lowest end and allow them to drain.

Loosen adjustment bolts to relax tension on fan belts as needed.

Hit all the grease fitting with your grease gun and apply some lube to moving parts,linkages, etc.

Clean any rusted areas on engine and touch up with paint or primer.

After that dries wipe entire motor down with an oily rag or spray with a good corrosion and rust preventive.

You're about done in the boat; cover the engine; disconnect the batteries and remove them to a cool dry area inside your garage for the winter.

Answer 5

First change the engine oil and filter and the lower unit oil.

Hook up the engine to a winterizing container that holds anti-freeze and muffs that supplly antifreeze to the lower unit from that container. You want the non toxic antifreeze. These are available at any good marine store. Top off the gas tank and add Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer. Run the engine(with the water supply on) to allow the antifreeze to circulate in the engine and the Stabil to get to the carb. Run the engine and spray fogging spray into carb as its running. When you have antifreeze coming out of the exhaust you are good to go. Spray the engine with silicone spray, remove the spark plugs and give a shot of fogging spray if you couldn't do it thru the carbs. Put the lower unit in the down position so water drains out, remove batteries and store in a cool dry spot(just not on concrete, wood is good) top them off with distilled water and charge them once a month over the winter. Cover the boat and keep it bow high to allow for drainage. If you do this you will not need heat tape as there is nothing that can freeze in the engine/outdrive.