Just starting sewing/serging with lycra... any tips or pointers?

Question

I have experience sewing, but I have never sewn with lycra before. I have purchased meters and meters of colorful lycra in hopes of turning my sketches into colorful, beautiful, swimwear. I'm wondering if I should use a sewing machine, serger or both. I have ballpoint needles single and twin to use for my sewing machine. I will be taking a serger course this fall to learn various techniques, since I have minimal experience on one (used sewing machine lots though).

Who here has sewn swimwear? Sew or serge? Do I need a different foot or anything (have needles)? Things to keep in mind? Please help! I know it's a challenge, but I am very determined to learn!

If it matters I have an older Kenmore 30 Stitch sewing machine and an Elna serger.

Answer 1

Taking a course will help A LOT..

I didn't have a serger when I sewed my first several bathing suits (followed Stretch and Sew pattern meticulously, though), and I did just fine with the rather primitive machine set-up that I had. Perhaps if I were to make another now I would use the serger, but I suspect I would use the regular machine to get everything in place and then serge over it all (my major fear in serging is running over a pin and destroying my blades- I do a fair amount of precise pinning when I'm sewing a bathing suit).

One particular advice is: when you are cutting out your fabric, spread it out on a table so that none of it hangs over the edge and stretches out. In fact you might want to lay it out  and let it sit over night before cutting.

Also, be sure that your scissors are sharp before you cut. Always sew slinky seams with a medium length narrow zigzag stitch or double needles.

Answer 2

Serge if at all possible is my recommendation -- the differential feed is going to keep you from going crazy with seams that want to either stretch out or contract during construction.  Coverstitch is useful for elastication, but can be lived without.  If you're using Schmetz needles, try universal, ballpoint and stretch -- different knits will react differently with the various needlepoints.

Required reading for making swimming suits:  Kwik Sew's book:

http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/Book_Swim...

http://www.kwiksew.com/DealerSite/Books/...

Remember that chlorine and bromine eat the heck out of fabrics, so any pool suits should be made of chlorine/bromine resistant fabrics and elastics.   Suits last longer if they're made of two layers of the outside fabric, rather than outside fabric and lining.