Longboard vs. short?

Question

I'm interested in trying a shortboard next time I go surfing. I'm used to a longboard and want to get as many tips in riding the shortboard before I go out and make a fool of myself. I believe the shortest board I've ever used is a 6'11"... or it may have been a 7'11"... not sure.

Anyways, I'm most concerned about how to sit on the board while waiting for the wave and placement of my body on the board while paddling.

Also, while I'm on the subject, if someone could explain how the line-up works... I'm used to waikiki where you'll see 6 people on the same wave--doesn't seem to work that way everywhere else.

Answer 1

I'm 6'2" and ride a 5'7" as my regular board.  I'd say my chest is about between a 1/4 and 1/3 of the overall length from the nose of the board.  But it is what is the best balance between floating and the ability to control it while paddling.  As far as sitting in the line up, You will need to be closer in to the break because it is more difficult to catch the wave on a short board as apposed to a long board.  Most of the time I'm close enough to the break that I push the board straight down into the water to let it spring forward to get the momentum moving and only require a few stokes before the speed is fast enough to catch the wave.  As far as other surfers in the lineup, typically the surfer up first or in the prime position on the face gets the right of way.  Since I usually surf in a lineup with people I know, we share the lineup and are courteous and let each other get their turn.  I know this is not so in breaks where you are the outsider.  Some sites, if not most, the regulars are a little territorial so you need to be patient and try not cut anyone off by dropping in on them.  Can make for an ugly situation.  If possible you might want to meet some of the locals when surfing in a lineup that is unfamiliar to you so they will me more receptive of you surfing their break.  Hope this helps.

Answer 2

no