Mercedes-Benz 240D owners?

Question

I've been looking for a cheap diesel car to drive around so I can save a little in gas (I have access to cheap biodiesel) and keep miles off of my new car, since I'm leasing it. A guy my dad works with is selling a 240D sedan that he bought just so he could remove the WVO kit for his newer Mercedes, and he is selling the 240 for $1,400. It only has 170K-ish miles on it, which is supposed to be hardly anything for those cars, and at this price it seems like quite a good deal. The car is in good shape and has no rust since it's from Texas. I was just wondering if anybody has/had a 240D and what experiences you've had, wether good or bad.

Thanks. :)

Answer 1

It's a little early for a new chain, but one is coming up. That's a significant job, which must be done by a Diesel mechanic, not the corner gas station. Otherwise, if a 240 works, it will keep working as long as you keep up with the maintenance. On an old 123, oil should be changed every 3000, and valves adjusted once per year. Fuel filters should be changed whenever the car feels unusually sluggish. As for flex disks, bushings, motor mounts, etc, get it inspected and only fix what's worn. BTW, the car is a slug, it will barely get out of it's own way. So get used to low riding, and enjoy the durability and economy of a classic Diesel.

Answer 2

at these mileages there are several things to be concerned with.

A. timing chain has probably stretched to allowable limit, this means that chain, tensioner shoe, and hydraulic tensioner should be replaced [while rare for these chains to break the gradual retardation of cam/pump timing really kills the power output]

B. the vacume pump should be overhauled or replaced as a preventative

and the brake booster tested for vacume leaks ( hard [high effort] brake pedals are common at these mileages) all the vacume door lock actuaters have probably given up. [this system can be blocked off if you want [resulting in manual locks]

C.front end suspension bushings . notably the lower control arm and radius rod bushings and the steering damper are usually needed [ball joints seem to last if their boots stay intact].

D. the right and left engine mounts have probably hardened and  collapsed resulting in a harsh idle vibration

for 1400 dollars  get it , do what it needs, and drive for another 200k miles.

after a while and any/all bugs are attended too you will find that the leased car is not worth keeping. i hope you will be able to dump it without loosing too much.

Answer 3

Replace timing chain at 200,000 miles,flex disks if needed.Good cars,will run over one million miles with oil changes and chains every 200,000.