Question:

Mites in my leopard geckos vivarium?

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hi, ive been getting lots of mites since about a 2 months ago i tried to feed him some melon... bad idea... the next day the fruit was covered in mites. i have to painfully wash everything in the tank and changed the substrate.... then yet again i started to sea small mites back in his cage...... so yet again i cleaned everything, this time i put everything boiling water and renewed the substate again

by now i stated to notice that theese mites appear when i feed him crickets. i have also found out that this species of mite were infact harmless but still very anoying.

could the mites be coming from the crickets i feed my leopard gecko? and whats the easiest way to elimnate all mites from ever comming back.?

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  1. How to choose Reptile Treatments.

    Occasionally your Reptile may show signs of ill health or less than perfect condition. This could be due to a large number of possible causes. Buying disease free, healthy stock from a reputable source will go a long way to reducing the likelihood of health problems in the future. So too will ensuring provision of the best possible vivarium conditions and giving a variety of suitable foodstuffs together with appropriate supplements (See other information pages). If you have concerns about the health of your Reptile then you should first check with the original supplier or breeder for their advice. If you cannot do this or if you are unhappy with the advice given, seek the professional advice of a vet. It is important to take action quickly as problems can quickly escalate. There are a number of common problems and ailments, which can be dealt with easily using a variety of proprietary treatments. The golden rule is, however, if unsure, always seek advice before administering any treatment. A few of the more common minor ailments and possible solutions to them are detailed below.

    Parasitic Mites.

    Mites are small members of the spider family, which feed off the blood supply of a host animal by attaching themselves to the skin. Close inspection will reveal these small (Pin head size or smaller) unwanted guests, often hundreds at a time, scurrying over the surface of your Reptile. An infected animal will often lose colour and may sit in a water bowl for long periods looking thoroughly miserable. Mites can introduce other diseases to their host and the small wounds made by them as they attach and draw blood can become infected. Treatment can be effected with pump spray applicators such as Bio-Mite by T-Rex. Mites are persistent and several repeat treatments may be necessary. It is important to remove all substrate and decoration and thoroughly sterilise these and the vivarium itself to kill all mites and prevent re-infestation. Not all Mites are parasitic, however, and a common variety is often introduced with the Rain Forest type substrates. This type of Mite eats decaying wood and is no threat to the reptile. Replacement of substrate and sterilisation as above is all that is required to eradicate them. Placing new substrate in the Microwave briefly will kill any mites present but may end up with instigation of divorce proceedings by the wife if she spots you doing this.

    Ticks.

    Ticks, like Mites are parasitic skin burrowers. Often larger (Although not always) than Mites, the treatment to both animal and vivarium are the same. “Tick Off” by Zoo Med is a topical application (For application directly onto the tick) and is usually effective. Vaseline applied thickly to cover the tick can also work as the Tick is suffocated and will withdraw its attachment to the reptile as it seeks to find air. Never pull a live Tick off an infected animal as this action will invariably leave parts of the Tick embedded with the possible and likely result of infection which at least will require treatment with antibiotics and at worst could result in scarring, disfigurement or death.

    Cuts and Lesions bacterial and fungal infections.

    On occasion, due to boisterous interaction, sparring or mating activity with other vivarium occupants a reptile may show signs of damage or bleeding. It is important that such visible damage is treated quickly as the high temperature environment of a vivarium can soon lead to secondary infection. Tamodine wound cleanser by Vetark is an iodine-based treatment which is very effective and can be used for application to all wounds and will also combat bacterial and fungal infections on both scaled and shelled reptiles. If symptoms persist consult a vet. Apply using Q Tip cotton buds or similar. Tamodine can also be used for sterilising Mite bites and damage caused by Ticks.

    Shedding problems.

    As Reptiles grow they shed their outer skin to replace it with a new one. On occasion difficulty may be experienced during the shedding process, which leaves part of the old skin attached. If this old skin is in tail tips or limb extremities then serious damage or loss of part of the limb may result. Infection may also be a consequence. Stubborn areas of skin attachment can be eased with a spray application such as Shed Ease by ESU. Never attempt to remove dry skin without application of a softening agent such as Shed Ease. It is possible to add items to the vivarium either as part of the decoration or when shedding is obviously imminent which will help your reptile to complete the shedding process. Rough rockwork, branches with convenient “v” shaped forks and even “shedding shelters” comprising a box or tunnel full of Sphagnum Moss or dampened, crumbled up brown paper may all assist a trouble free shedding process.

    Ailments such as metabolic bone disease (Week limbs or soft shell caused by adverse environmental conditions and Calcium deficiency), weight loss or loss of appetite which may require worming treatment or vitamin B injections, respiratory ailments or any non specific problems should be referred to a vet for consultation. With reptiles the important thing is to act quickly.


  2. If the mites are coming in with the crickets you should see them in the tubs that they come in. If they are in the cricket tubs change your supplier. Check your substrate too they might be coming in in that. Also if you use newspaper that can sometimes get paper mites. I get them occasionally with my lizards. Thoroughly scrub his tank with reptile disinfectant. Every nook and cranny and the lizard too! Give him a bath (probably not in disinfectant) and make sure he's not harbouring any in his armpits. Hopefully that should get rid of the little blighters for good!

  3. You need to go and pick up some Betadine to bathe your leo in as directed.

    Then while your leo is tucked up somewhere safe (NOT in a tub from his enclosure) then you purge the enclosure.

    Anything that can be thrown out must be (bulbs, substrate, bedding, carpets, cheap tubs).

    Anything that can be cooked (wood, stones etc) must be cooked in the oven at 150C for 30 mins.

    Anything that can't be cooked must be place in *BOILING* water with a bleach solution. Leave to soak, scrub with a rough cloth, and rinse, then leave to soak in fresh boiling water until ready for it.

    Then get some heat resistant waterproof gloves and get a cloth laced with bleach and boiling (maybe let it cool a little) water and scrub the interior of the enclosure - floor, walls, ceiling, light fittings, everything. Rinse thoroughly.

    Don't put any substrate back in, but everything else and finally your leo.

    Then change your bug supplier and DO NOT feed your leo fruit and veg and c**p - 100% insects.

    Leave it for a week.

    Do it all again.

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