My bird hates me????

Question

I have been training my indian ringneck parakeet for about a month, and he seems to be showing no progress. The only way i can get him out of the cage is to leave the door open, walk out the room and then he will get on top of his cage. once he is on top of his cage he will come get on my finger. I want to be able to put my finger on the cage and get him to step up but he just freaks out and flops around the cage when i do that. What should i do?? I hand feed him apples through the cage. I have tried everything!!!!!! Please Help me before i go insane

Answer 1

You need a lot of patience to train a parakeet.

http://www.pet-parrots.com/Parakeets/par...

http://www.lisashea.com/petinfo/articles...

http://www.lisashea.com/petinfo/question...

http://www.birdtricks.com/parakeets/

I tried to tame my parakeet, and was unseccesful, of course I'm only 12. But I hope these web sites might help you.

Answer 2

they usually feel safer in there cage. n if u wanna get him to step on ur finger from inside the cage try putting  some treats on ur hand

Answer 3

Indian Ring-Necked Parakeet Stats



Scientific Name:  Psittacula krameri manillensis

Size:  Medium, 16 inches

Native Region:  India

Life Expectancy:  15 to 30 years

Noise Level:  Moderate

Talk/Trick Ability:  Fair; can be good mimics.

Traits:  The most popular and widely kept of the Psittacula species, the Indian ring-necked parakeet is not known for its affectionate manner. Indian ring-necked parakeets can make excellent companions if owners handle, interact, play and talk to them daily. .

Behavior/Health Concerns:  Indian ring-necked parakeets can develop social phobias with regular interaction and handling. Indian ring-necked parakeets enjoy chewing, so provide soft wood toys. Generally not picky eaters, provide an Indian ring-necked parakeet a varied diet with plenty of fruit, vegetables, green and whole grains. Males have a more distinct rose collar and facial markings than the females. They have a narrow black stripe on the mandible under the throat and a black lower mandible. Female Indian ringnecks do not have the colorful neck rings or facial markings found on adult males. Female also tend to be more dominant than males.

Birds use their beaks for a variety of tasks, including eating, exploring, nest excavation and defense. A clear definition for each type of “bite” clarifies this discussion.

•If your skin is a little red or your bird plucked a few stray hairs, it was touching and tasting, not biting.

•When the beak leaves a small impression and redness on the skin, this is a “nip” or pinch.

•Bruising or bleeding constitutes a bite.

•If your bird leaves a deep bruise or cut and there’s lots of bleeding, this is a “chomp.”

Contrary to opinions expressed in the past, we parrot behavior consultants now put more emphasis on teaching parrots to comply happily whenever possible, instead of muscling in and forcing the issue.

If your parrot will let others pet her but bites after a few minutes, this means that people are trying to pet her for too long a period. The pet owner’s job is to figure out how long is too long. If you time the interactions, you will get a feel for your bird’s tolerance. Once you understand that, you can remove her from the situation before she loses patience and lashes out. If she accepts being stroked for 10 minutes, then move her away after five to seven minutes. You will begin to have no further problem with her biting those who pet her. Her patience will increase once she no longer feels pressured.

If you observe your parrot closely, you will find that she warns of an impending bite with body language that humans often do not understand. Despite their proclivity for noisy interaction, parrots communicate mostly through subtle changes in body posture and feather position. If we are oblivious, we tend to blunder along, being incredibly rude from the parrot’s point of view. As far as they are concerned, they are being perfectly clear with their feelings. Unable to know that we do not understand what they are telling us, they likely perceive humans as ignorant.

When she nips you while you put her into the cage, she might be trying to tell you that she would rather be with you than alone in her cage, or you might be holding her in such a way that she has to step backward into the cage, which many parrots resist. Whatever the reason, you can change her behavior by teaching her that lovely things happen when she politely enters the cage, such as a reward.

If you put her into the cage backward, try facing her inward to see if that helps. Additionally, show her that you just dropped her favorite treat into her bowl. This treat should be used only as a reward. Now she might be more inclined to return to the cage to retrieve her reward. My macaw always receives a nut for going into her cage, so the cage becomes a good thing.

As an alternative, step her down into her cage and lavishly praise her politeness, then instantly bring her out to play some more. Repeat this exercise several times; put her in the cage, praise her, and then bring her out for more attention. By combining the training, praise and special food treats, she will learn to enter her cage with pleasure.

If your parrot is not hurting you when she bites you,  she is telling you something in a polite and gentle fashion. A nip is more of a pinch. There is discomfort involved, but it isn’t a bite. In other words, she is not nipping just because she is using her beak. That is tantamount to assuming that hands are only used to damage, no matter how gentle their touch.

Do not try to pet your bird if she screams and bites. Forcing your affection on your bird is astonishingly rude. Unfortunately, most people are accustomed to dogs that always seem to enjoy petting. Many people perceive parrots as dogs with feathers, so they assume there is something wrong with a parrot if it doesn’t want to be petted. This is an erroneous conclusion. Like humans, parrots have opinions about what is permitted with their bodies, and they — like us — have the right to enforce their beliefs.

Training your bird at a young age is ideal when compared to re-training or correcting the bad habits of an older bird. Some pet owners can become sidetracked by the freshness of having a new bird and enjoying their cuteness while they’re still baby birds; however, you must remember that in order to set the stage for the future, it is important to socialize your bird, work on good communication, and establish trust at a young age.  Just as human babies need to learn to eat with a spoon and play well with others before they tackle long division, baby birds need to start with the basics. Spend time with your young bird developing trust and teaching the basics of good bird behavior. For example:

Body handling. If you help your baby bird become accustomed to being gently handled now, you will prevent many problems later. For example, gently playing with your bird’s feet and toes will help it tolerate toenail filing. Gently lift its wings, so a trip to the groomer doesn’t become a nightmare later on.

Toweling: Start using the towel as part of your play with your baby bird, gradually working into wrapping your bird up in the towel. When you or your vet need to wrap the bird in the towel for its own safety, the experience will be much less stressful.

Beaking: Baby birds use their beaks to explore, but now is the time to let your bird know that anything beyond gentle nibbles is unacceptable. Frown and tell your bird “No,” and leave it alone for a minute or two, so it associates biting with being put in “time-out.”

Harness: It can take some time before a bird accepts wearing a harness or flight suit, but things will go more smoothly if you start when the bird is young. Once you get your bird into the harness, take it outside, at least briefly, so it learns why the harness is worth the bother. It’s also a good time to try out the carrier. Take short car rides that don’t end at the vet each time, and your bird might look forward to them.

You will begin to notice better communication between you and your baby bird. Working with your bird frequently allows you to become familiar with the body language and preferences of the bird, making it easier to know what your pet wants and how to respond to its actions. By taking time to teach your bird new tricks, you are encouraging desired behavior. Your bird will begin to demonstrate the favorable behavior because it learns it receives your attention then, as opposed to misbehaving. The stimulation training provides your bird is also very important to cater to their intelligence and appease their curiosity.

Because different techniques are required to alter different behaviors, it is important to properly identify observed emotions. Symptoms of anger in an avian companion can manifest in numerous ways, which makes diagnosis difficult. This is where knowing your bird’s personality can be helpful.

Some birds, like people, are just grumpy. This is not always the same thing as anger, although a grumpy bird can become angry. Anger is stronger than grouchiness and the bird often appears extremely frustrated. An angry bird might also develop a short “fuse,” exhibiting little or no patience. The bird might also lash out violently, sometimes waging a full attack upon a person, animal or object.

This can be a tough call to make, especially because some destruction could be normal nesting behavior or an ecstatically happy and rambunctious little parrot doing what he does best — making a mess. One clue to look for is that an angry bird often does not seek positive social interaction, whereas a rowdy, happy little guy will.

Some apparent aggression might actually be territorial behavior, in which the bird defends his favorite person, place or object and attempts to drive all others away. That is not true anger, unless he is not taught that he cannot do this and eventually becomes angry because everyone is violating “his” property and not paying attention to his clear messages to keep away.

An angry bird often spends much of his time alone. He might be tense and sit relatively still, or he might tear around the cage destroying things. He might scream or be vocally or physically confrontational. He might destroy his feathers, often in a methodical and deliberate manner. However, taking the aforementioned things into consideration, the most accurate way of determining if a bird is angry is the fact that he will often just feel angry to those who know him.

Reasons For Anger

What kinds of things make birds angry and what can be done about them? Well, what situations make you angry? The reasons for problem behaviors are diverse, and pinpointing the cause is an important component of the behavior modification and healing processes in both humans and animals.

If it is not appropriately addressed

Answer 4

He might be showing signs of cage dominance. many parrots can develop this behavior all you have to do if show him whos boss. All you have to do bring him to a neutral area like another room away from the huss and fuss of the house and away from eyes range of his cage. Work with him daily for about 20 minutes keeping the training sessions short. Just be patient and  

continue to work with him offering praise and reward for good behaviors and ignoring those bad behaviors. i highly suggest you invest in T-Stand that you can perch him on in the middle of the neutral room(of your choice)

heres a google image of a tstand

http://www.arcatapet.com/fullsize/13100....