My hamsters are scared to death of me!

Question

I just bought 2 hamsters today, and they are so scare of me when I pick them up they would p**p they would be so scared and they always run away from me! what do I do?

Answer 1

Its going to take a lot of time and patience on your part to get them to trust you.  The best thing to do for now is pick them up by getting a toilet paper roll and letting them crawl into it.  When you have them in your hand let them walk on you for a while and give them a hamster treat.  Eventually they will associate you with treats and you can stop using the tube slowly.

Answer 2

you just bought them, they aren't familliar with you yet. they just need some time to know you that's all, just like my hamsters. i thought i will never get to pick them up, but some week later they are just fine with me. there is nothing to worry.  

Answer 3

if you just got your hamster today, you probably shouldn't try to pick it up for about two days. getting a new home is a lot of stress for a hamsters and right now, it's probably just getting adapted to its new environment. when they are finally ready to be handled, it takes a lot of time to finally be able to pick them up out of their cage and for them to trust you. hamsters are pretty much scared of everything that's not their kind, so be patient!

first, they have to get used to your voice and smell. just try talking to it gently and leave your hand in the cage, but make sure your hands are scentless, otherwise they might bite. they'll probably come over and smell your hand, after awhile, they'll learn to get used to your smell.

after you and your hamster are comfortable with that, maybe put some food or a little treat in your hands and let them eat off of it. this will help them learn that good things come when you're around and they'll learn to trust you.

after that, it's time to actually try to handle your hamster. you don't want to pick it up directly from the cage at first though. you might want to let them crawl into something.. like a cup, for example. then let the hamster come out of the come on its own and let it crawl from one hand to the other simultaneously. did this for several nights and soon enough, you'll be able to pick it up directly from the cage. but with scooped hands so your hamster feels secure!

lastly, you need to frequently handle your hamster. maybe let it eat for your hand, or pet it while it's eating. if you got dwarfs and you don't handle it enough, it'll eventually go back to being wild and you'll have to start the process all over again, bit it'll be harder to tame an adult hamster.

WARNINGS:

-only handle them at night when they are active. if you try handling them while they're sleeping, they'll bite!

-when you carry the hamster, stay close to the ground because they can be fast or they can jump off your hand

-don't let it run freely near stairs or high elevations. they can fall and get injured

-wash your hands before and after after handling! make sure your hands are sentless before handleing the hamster!

hope that helped!

Answer 4

Your hamsters are still new to their environment. Hamsters take some time getting used to new places, so give them some time to settle down. I have attached my hamster training guide for your reference. Hope it helps you bond with your two hamsters.

Guide to taming hamsters -

Taming your hamster can be a long process, don't expect your hamster to suddenly like be handled over night. It can take weeks or even months depending on the hamster. Here the the steps to handling a hamster -

STEP 1 - When you first get your hamster leave it alone for the first 2 - 3 days to let it get used to it's new cage and surroundings. If you pick him up on the first day itself, he will definitely bite you since you are a stranger to him.

STEP 2 - Once the hammy seems comfortable in his new cage, start talking to him softly and hang around his cage enough for him to get used to your voice and smell. After this time feed your hamster some treats from your hand so he get used to seeing your hand. This might take a few days to happen but be patient. If you feel that the hamster still bites you, you can use gloves initially.

PRECAUTION - always interact with the hamster only when he is active. If you touch him or disturb him when he is sleeping, he can get angry and bite viciously.

STEP 3 - Once your hamster seems confident with taking treats out of your hand you can try to start handling your hamster. Before you handle your hamster make sure you have washed your hands well. Hamsters have a strong sense of smell. If they smell something on your hand they may mistake it for food and decide to bite!

Get a cup or something similar and place it into the hamster's cage. He should come to investigate and crawl inside. Take the hamster and cup out of the cage and let him walk out onto your hand. While you do this make sure you're sat down or sat close to the floor incase your hamster decides to jump. Let him walk from hand to hand. Be careful you don't grab or wrap your hands around your hamster until he is fully tame as this may scare him and he will jump out of your hand.

STEP 4 - Once your hamster is more confident with you, you can start to pick up your hamster straight from it's cage. Just make sure your hamster is aware that you are there, if not you may suddenly scare the hamster and it may turn around and bite you.

Best way to hold hamsters is to make them climb into one hand and cupping the other hand softly over the body so that his head pokes out from the gap between your two hands. Remember, do not apply any pressure on his body, he will get scared and snap at you.

Answer 5

Maybe, the hamsters were abused before you bought them. Give them some time. The more time you spend with them, the more accustomed they will become of you.

Answer 6

give them time for a break then they love you if you talk to them half an hour a week.

Answer 7

Taming your hamster:

For a hamster to be a tame and good pet, it must be socialized. This means frequent, gentle and respectful handling that helps the hamster become comfortable with people. The younger the hamster, the easier he is to tame. Also, syrian hamsters tend to tame a little faster. With all hamsters, patience is the key. If your hamster looks scared or if he bites during the taming process, you need to slow down. Go back to the previous step or even two steps back. Your hammie should approach you in a relaxed manner several times (usually a period of over 2 to 3 days) before moving on to the next step.

1. Start by feeding him treats thru the bars of the cage. Let him smell your hand.

2. Feed him treats through the opening of his cage. Place treats between your index and thumb.

3. Feed him treats through the opening of his cage. This time, place the treat in the palm of your hand.

4. After he runs in his zoom-zoom ball, place your hand inside the ball, palm up. Encourage him to walk onto your hand. This step may take some time. Limit your first play sessions to 5 minutes. It may take a few sessions before he comes out of his ball and onto your hand.

Alternate steps 3 and 4, and he will eventually come out onto your hand.

5. Make sure you are sitting on the floor when you first handle your hamster. Always have his cage or ball nearby. Let him sniff and explore your hand and lap. Hamsters like to go from one hand the other hand that's placed slightly lower. They like to go onto your shoulders, but wait on this until you've handled him for a couple weeks.

The average taming takes between 2 weeks to a month or more. Remember that biting is a reflex. Your hamster will bite when scared. Let your hamster climb on your hand instead of trying to catch him. Wash your hands before and after handling your hamster. He may try to nibble if you smell like food. In my opinion, wearing gloves can make taming more difficult and slows the process. Though, you being nervous is not going to calm your hamster. If you are only comfortable handling him that way, do so, but as long as you're not rushing and you follow these steps, you should be fine. When you're hamster does bite, calmly put him back into his cage. Never scold your hamster. He will not learn that way, he'll just get more scared and bite more!

When first picking up your hamster, don't lift him high above the floor or walk with him in your hands. Until he's comfortable with you, he will jump. Experienced hamster owners will learn to feel their hamster on their hand and know what moves he will make.

Answer 8

Characteristics

Hamsters are stout-bodied, with tails much shorter than body length and have small furry ears, short stocky legs, and wide feet. Their thick, silky fur, which can be long or short, can be black, grey, white, brown, buff, yellow, "sapphire" or red depending on the species, or a mix of any of those colors. The Djhungarian hamster (Phodopus campbelli) and the striped dwarf hamster (Cricetulus barabensis) have a dark stripe down the middle of the back. Dwarf desert hamsters (genus Phodopus) are the smallest, with bodies 5 to 10 cm (about 2 to 4 inches) long; the largest is the common hamster (Cricetus cricetus), measuring up to 34 cm long, not including a short tail of up to 4 cm. The tail is often difficult to see; usually it is not very long, and on a long haired hamster it is barely visible. Hamsters are very flexible; and their bones are somewhat fragile.

Habitat

Hamsters' northern range extends from central Europe through Siberia, Mongolia, and northern China to Korea. The southern portion of their range stretches from Syria to India. Throughout dry, open country they inhabit desert borders, vegetated sand dunes, shrubby and rocky foothills and plateaus, river valleys, and mountain steppes; some live among cultivated crops. Geographic distribution varies greatly between species. The common hamster, for example, is found from central Europe to western Siberia and northwestern China, but the golden hamster has been found only near a small town in northwestern Syria.

Diet

Hamsters are omnivorous. Their diet consists mostly of grains (such as whole grain oats and corn) but also includes fresh fruit, roots such as carrots, green parts of plants. Hamsters carry food in their spacious cheek pouches to a cache in the burrow. Hamsters in the Middle East have been known to hunt in packs to find insects for food

Pet stores sell a variety of treats that are suitable for hamsters. However, it is important not to give a hamster too many of these, especially ones that are high in fat or sugar, because they may lead to the hamster getting diabetes. It is better to give hamsters fresh vegetables over fresh fruit, as fruit is also high in sugar. If you give hamsters fruit it is always best to do so as a treat and in extremely small amounts. The skin of fruits such as apples and pears is also good. It is also important not to give a hamster too much fresh fruits, as they can cause diarrhea.

Most people try to feed their hamster everyday foods found in their kitchen. It is best to avoid human foods that will make them unhealthy or be hard for them to digest. Any fruits or vegetables should be chosen carefully. It is also important to thoroughly wash fruits, vegetables and greens before feeding, as they can have traces of pesticides. Some foods to avoid giving hamsters are kidney beans, onion, garlic, large amounts of citrus fruit, and potato sprouts. Some hamsters also shouldn't eat iceberg lettuce, as it causes diarrhea. Dark leafy greens are preferred, such as kale and spinach. Celery, green beans, carrots, broccoli on occasion are great also.

Behavior

Syrian hamsters (Mesocricetus auratus) are generally solitary and will fight to the death if put together, whereas dwarf hamsters can get along with others of the same species. Hamsters are primarily considered crepuscular and at one point were considered nocturnal as they are sometimes active all night. They are excellent diggers, constructing burrows with one or more entrances and with galleries that are connected to chambers for nesting, food storage, and other activities. They will also appropriate tunnels made by other mammals; the striped hairy-footed hamster (Phodopus sungorus), for instance, uses paths and burrows of the pika. None hibernate during winter, but some (mostly Syrian hamsters) experience periods of torpor lasting from a few days to several weeks. This probably means that conditions are too cold for them. Hamsters are known to stockpile large amounts of food, because of natural instinct from the wild. Because of this behavior it is alright if you leave a hamster alone for a few days if you need to go somewhere. Once you tame a Syrian hamster, they remain so for a very long time. However, once you tame a dwarf hamster, you must keep playing with it. If left alone for a maximum two weeks, it will become untame again.[3]

Reproduction

Hamsters become fertile at different ages dependent on their species, but this can be from one month to three months of age. Male hamsters remain fertile for the rest of their lives, though females do not. Females are in heat approximately every four days.

Breeding season is from April to October, with two to five litters of 1 to 13 young being born after a gestation period of 16 to 22 days.[3] Gestation lasts 16 to 18 days for Syrian hamsters, 18 to 21 days for the Russian hamsters, 21 to 23 days for Chinese hamsters and 23 to 30 for Roborovski Hamsters. The average litter for Syrians is about 7, but can be as great as 24, which is the maximum number of pups that can be contained in the uterus. Campbell's Dwarf Hamsters tend to have 4 to 8 in a litter but can have up to 14. Winter White Russian Dwarf Hamsters tend to have slightly smaller litters, as do Chinese and Roborovski hamsters.

Siberian hamsters form close, monogamous bonds with their mates. If separated, they may become very depressed. This happens especially in males. Males will become inactive, eat more, and even show some behavioral changes similar to some types of depression in humans. This can even cause obesity in the hamster.

Chinese hamster females are known for being aggressive toward the male if kept together for too long. In some cases, male Chinese hamsters have died after being attacked by the female. If breeding Chinese hamsters, it is recommended to separate the pair after mating.

Hamsters are born hairless and blind in a nest which the mother will have prepared in advance. She uses shredded material such as leaves in the wild but prefers cotton or toilet paper in captivity. After one week they begin to explore outside the nest. They are completely weaned after three weeks, or four for Roborovski Hamsters. Most breeders will sell the hamsters to shops when the hamsters are anywhere from two to eight weeks old.

Classification

Taxonomists generally disagree about the most appropriate placement of the subfamily Cricetinae within the superfamily Muroidea. Some place it in a family Cricetidae that also includes voles, lemmings, and New World rats and mice; others group all these into a large family called Muridae. Their evolutionary history is recorded by 15 extinct fossil genera and extends back 11.2 million to 16.4 million years to the Middle Miocene Epoch in Europe and North Africa; in Asia it extends 6 million to 11 million years. Four of the seven living genera include extinct species. One extinct hamster of Cricetus, for example, lived in North Africa during the Middle Miocene, but the only extant member of that genus is the common hamster of Eurasia.