Question:

OMG help me please!! ?

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I have a beardy that's about 4-5inches in length, maybe 6, he's very young, and i had him for about 2 mos now. ne way, i ran out of crickets and he didnt eat for about 2-3 days, i fed him 2 wax worms, which he devoured......then 2 days later, he regurgitated the worms. i had bought a bulk of crickets this time, and tried feeding him, but he hasnt budged. he lays around and jst sleeps. i spray him regularly for water and laps it up as it falls off his head. but he will not eat! the tank he's in is maintaind about about 90 degrees during the day and about 75-80 during the night. he hs never had a problem w/ eating until now. i dont know what to do..... he is also losing weight, i'm starting to notice his spine, down his tail and his underbelly looks loose (saggy like), so i know he's losing weight. every time i feed him the crickets i dust them w/ dragon dust. also he will not eat ne veggies EVER! i tried feeding him collards w/ summer squash cut up in bitty peices and wont touch it.... i even tried cilantro and parsley, still nothing.....also tried spinach, and that didnt work either.....help please?

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  1. If he's throwing the wax worms up two days later, that may be a heat issue. I would think if they were just too big, they'd be thrown up that day or the very next. 90 is a little too low for a baby beardie, you want a basking spot of 100 to 115 for babies. I wouldn't worry so much about the veggies, that's something that may take awhile for them to start eating but make sure you continue to offer them as that is what helps them start eating veggies. Don't feed your bearded dragon spinach though. It is bad for beardies as it binds w/ the calcium. and if you do give your dragon veggies, don't give them frozen veggies or lettuce. Frozen veggies lose their nutrients through the freezing and lettuces are very low in nutritional value, for dragons and humans. If you're a human and eating lettuce sandwiches, you're just eatting water bread and ruffage so no need to give that to your dragon. You want to give them dark leafy greens like the collard you were giving him as well as dandilions, pok choy, mustard greens, etc. Vet care would be around $55 for a visit, and any treatment would cost extra. Although, when a beardie is that young, there really isn't much, if anything a vet can do. The vet will most likely tell you that as well. Now if the dragon is not eating on it's own, you may need to start feeding it some liquid food such as baby food, reptile aid or jump start, preferably jump start. use a needless syringe and put a little at the edge of it's mouth and it should lap it up. the dragon should start taking live food hopefully a week later. Don't listen to the person that told you not to mist your dragon. That's prefectly fine.


  2. Ok. I have a 2 year old beardie.

    I do not know why you are misting, or spraying him. Do not do this as it causes the humity to rise in his habitat. He is still considered a baby, so the temp needs to be 95-100 degrees.

    My beardie doesn't always eat his veggies either - not everday, but I still supply them for him just in case. Get the spring mix of lettuce from the grocery store -it is the best for him and he will enjoy it more. I also buy frozen mixed veggies and sometimes mix those in with his lettuce.

    You do not want too many crickets in his habitat - they can actually pick at him and cause him some stress. I keep mine in a plastic habitat with paper towel roles and the like. I have a bowl of fish flakes (they eat it) and another small bowl with a sponge that I make sure is always most for drinking - this will keep your crickets alive.

    Beardie's react to movement at meal time - I will take one cricket at a time and brake off a leg so it can still move, but cannot move to fast for the beardie and I drop it right infront of him so he is sure to see it. No, you do not have to do it just like this - you can just throw a few in their. I do it this way so I am sure he gets them, and so I don't hear them chirping all day.

    Keep a very small bowl of water in his habitat. And also be sure you have a uvb light on him. This is how their body takes in the calcium from foods and such - it can cause them not to at and sleep if they do not have a good source of UVB.

    Here are some sites that have helped me:

    http://www.beardeddragon.org/

    http://www.bearded-dragons.com/

    http://www.anapsid.org/bearded.html

    http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?...

    http://www.kingsnake.com/gladescs/bearde...

    http://www.reptilecare.com/Bearded.htm

    http://www.petco.com/caresheets/lizards/...

    If you have any more questions, post here on yahoo - many people here also have beardies and are vvery helpful. You can also email me.

    Best of luck!! Beardies are awesome.

    If he gets too bad you may have to take him to the vet!!

  3. i think you should take him to a vet if not keep on trying to feed eventually he will get hungry and eat

  4. give him plenty of water, crank up the heat to 100-105 during the day,  make sure you have a UVB bulb, you can buy them at most reptile stores,  the special bulb and the heat should bring up his appitite, if that doesn't work then you have to force feed or take to a vet,  

  5. TAKE HIM TO THE VET. NOW.

    Even if it turns out to be nothing (although it doesn't sound like nothing...) it is better to be safe than sorry!

    I hope he gets better!!!

  6. Justin K has a good answer- I just want to add, make sure that you dont cook the whole cage. The side of the cage opposite the heat lamp must be able to go down to room temp, or close to it. I'd try for a basking spot of 110 degrees. For standard height aquariums (13" tall or so) I have had good sucess with GE softwhite floodlight R20 bulbs from walmart. In the 45-50 watt size, yellow package, sold in pairs. Use along with your uv bulb. They are cheap, throw lots of heat in a small area using low wattage, and dont overheat the area around them.

        If your basking spot isnt quite warm enough, try elevating the spot by putting a brick or 2 to allow him to get closer to the lamp, rather than having to run a higher wattage bulb. I usually use a standard grey brick from home depot under the heat lamp- gives them a great spot to sit and soak up the heat. Rinse it real good first.

      Also, if its not eating the crickets- remove them, or they will stess out, or even hurt the dragon when he tries to sleep. throw a small chunk of carrot in the corner of his cage too, the crickets can eat that instead of sucking moisture out of your dragons eyes, which can happen.

      Light misting directly on him is fine, just make sure the cage has good ventilation so he isnt living in high humidity.

      Hope this helps.
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