Painting Prep? I'm refinishing an old pine dresser. How much old finish do I have to remove before painting?

Question

Got it at a garage sale for $5. I've been sanding all afternoon. I plan to paint it once its prepped. It's not an important piece of furniture; just a dresser for a cabin. Any suggestions?

Answer 1

Just remove any loose stuff and if there are large bits peeled off then just feather the edges so it dosnt show thru. Hit it with a sealer primer then repaint to your coilour. As it is indoors, in reality, you dont have to be too fussy. Just remove loose paint and wash down with some soapy water. Dry and slap a coat of paint on it.

Answer 2

If you are going to paint it sand it with 120 or 150 grit sandpaper until everything feels smooth.  Its not necessary to remove the old finish.  Since I don't know what the existing finish I will recommend a bonding primer.  Let the primer dry overnight and do an adhesion test.  Stick a piece of scotch tape to the primer and rub it down so its really stuck.  Pull it off quickly.  If no primer comes off,  you are ready to paint.  Apply two coats of semigloss acrylic paint.  Don't listen to the guy who said use oil base paint.  Acrylic will hold up better to temperature and humidity changes and it is more fade resistant.  I don't recommend foam or throwaway brushes.  A good $15 brush will give you much better results with less effort.  Don't use cheap paint,  I like Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore.

Answer 3

Even a cheapo piece should deserve some effort. If you have it fairly well sanded, I'd prime it with one coat and then paint it with an interior oil based paint. Oil based because you said it was pine, which is a very soft wood, and the fact that you are planning on using it in a cabin usually means there will not be a lot of heat year round in it. Oil paint will help protect the wood from moisture and humidty so that next year, you will still be able to get the drawers open. Got some cheap sponge brushes so you can throw everything away after painting.

Answer 4

welll ................sand it,paint it polish it. i guess.

Answer 5

You've gotten plenty of input, but I just wanted to give my vote for oil-based paint.

I have always used latex paint (and I've done a great deal of painting).  However, a few months back, I was talking to my general contractor, and he was going on and on about how great oil-based paint is for trim, cabinets, and furniture.  

I decided to give it a try on my next project, and I was absolutely AMAZED at the difference.  I will never go back to using latex paint on trim, cabinets, and furniture.  It will only be oil-based from now on for me.  The quality is unmatched, and the finish is much more durable.

Simply sand enough to even out the rough spots, and to give the piece of furniture some "tooth" (don't leave any shiny spots), then apply a good coat of primer.  Let it dry completely, and then apply the paint.

I like to paint with a good brush--not outrageously expensive, but not cheap either.  I generally use Purdy brand brushes, which you can purchase at Home Depot.

Answer 6

sand it until smooth all over and go for it. Sounds like you got a great deal...garage sales and flee markets are the way to go when you don't have a lot of money to spend and 9 outta 10 times they look just like the new ones do.

Answer 7

You could just give it enough sanding to give it a tooth to hold the paint with. That will work just fine and save time as well.

Answer 8

Depends on what kind of finish is on there now. If it is paint, sand enough till smooth and touch up with any filler fine sand with a 220 grit, prime then light sand to smooth, and paint 2  coats sanding light between coats.  But if it is wood color that is totally different, need to get down to wood and then just put a clear coat (polyurethane). 2 or 3 coats sand between coats.

Good luck