Paper targets for rifle Help?

Question

I need a target like this one http://www.reloadbench.com/pdf/files/TargetRightHanded.pdf but for rifles not pistols. Any help would be great.

Answer 1

Look at Fleet Farm they have targets like that.  

Answer 2

The problems that this target seeks to identify are mostly unique to pistol shooting and relatively shorter ranges compared to rifle shooting.  You probably will not find a similar target that apply's to rifles due to that fact.

Answer 3

You can down load and get a variety of free targets providing you have a copier.* Just do a web search by typing in { free targets } ..... Good Luck, hope this helps.*

Answer 4

Downloadable targets specifically for rifle scopes:

http://www.6mmbr.com/targets.html

Answer 5

The target referenced is for pistol shooters.

The proper target for working with rifles and scopes is a 'grid' target.  They come designed for various ranges, but the most common for 'sighting in' purposes is a 25yd. target.

These are usually available at any store that sells rifles, either singly or in pads/packages of 10 or 25.

In addition, you can do a search for targets.  Note that most rifle targets are larger than most printers can handle.

As to telling you what you are doing wrong; that is easier with a pistol than with a rifle.  I note that MANY of the listings on your target are SPECIFIC to right-handed shooters, and would be different for left-handed or 2-handed shooting.

Note: I use 25yd rifle targets out to 500yds at times.

Answer 6

You will not find one like that for rifles.  Those issues are unique to pistol shooting.

What you need is something like this.....

http://appleseedinfo.org/smf/index.php?a...

Answer 7

No piece of paper is going to decipher the troubles you have zeroing in your rifle. You’re placing the blame for inconsistent shooting on anything but where it rightly belongs. Even if your rifle is off, or you have an inherent marksmanship problem, the way to correct this is by adjusting you scope to correct your oversight. There are hundreds of different ideas on how to accomplish this.  Shooting from a bench rest for stability and consistency . . . sandbags, shooting bags, or a vise (a "lead sled" is awesome) . . . is pretty key in sighting in a rifle or pistol. Essentially, you need to start with a laser/bore sight; put the laser dot on the center of a traditional bull’s eye target that has some room for error. Then adjust your scope so that the crosshairs or dot (if you’re using a red/green dot scope) lands on top of the laser dot projected by the bore sight. Afterwards, carefully remove the bore sight, taking care not to disturb the rifle and bench rest set up and load some ammo; shoot a group of three rounds and check your target . . . note the direction and distance that you are off (mark your holes so you know which ones are new and which ones are old),. then go back to your rifle and (carefully) make the necessary adjustments to your scope and load/shoot three more rounds. Check your shots and note/mark your target . . . repeat the process until no more adjustments are necessary.

. . A few things that need to be considered in the process are what distance you will be shooting at and the specific ammo you are using. Most ammunition manufacturers are pretty consistent in their process and the cartridges perform consistently. If you use a specific cartridge/mfg for sighting in, it should be the exact same cartridge you expect to use for the hunt or shooting competition. That's right the trajectory will change from mfg to mfg, and from bullet grain and load to bullet grain and load. You certainly can find cartridges that that are comparable, and probably some that have identical traits . . . but that should be explored before hand. Likewise, by trying various kinds of ammo you may find a certain cartridge that performs better than all the others . . . this is what accuracy freaks seek; they try to find the ultimate cartridge/rifle combination to get the maximum performance out of their rifle. Furthermore, competition shooters hand load their own/roll their own ammo so they can control the results of their labors. As little as a 1/2 of grain of gunpowder (there are 7000 grains of powder in a pound) can affect the performance and accuracy of your shot. Competitive shooters have been known to sand and polish their bullets to improve their performance.

Anyway, back to zeroing in your rifle . . . 100 yards is usually the specified distance for match shooting. There is a considerable number of match grade shooting competitions surrounding the M1 Garand rifle; the M1 is a former military rifle noted for its reliability, availability, and accuracy capabilities. The M1 is most commonly chambered in 30-06; noted in the sources list is a link for ballistics for common calibers, at 100 yards it illustrates commercially manufactured 30-06 cartridges that have trajectories that range from as little as  7/10ths of an inch high to 5 inches high. Glancing at the same ballistic chart I also see that at 300 yards there are commercially produced cartridges with a minor drop in trajectory of 4 and 7/10ths of an inch to as much as 20.and 2/5ths of an inch drop. So, while zeroing your scope in you need to decide whether you want to take this data in to consideration beforehand or while you’re in the field. Target shooters usually go for the 100 yard nuts on approach, as perfection is what they seek. On the other hand, if your deer hunting you have some wiggle room and perfection is not required. I have seen a lot of hunters zero in at 200 yards with the trajectory calculated in, and then while in the field they can make the necessary adjustments for the 100 or 300 yards shot, or even just take the shot and hope for the best. If there is only a 5 inch difference between the rise and drop in trajectory at 100 and 300 yards . . . that’s plenty good and there is no need to fuss any further. Still there are a lot of wanna be snipers out there who insist on starting from nuts on, and doing their calculations in the field based on measurements from electronic rangefinders, and wind detection gadgets, humidity and temperature apparatuses, and downhill and uphill rangefinder/trajectory manual slide rules, etc . . .  how my Grandfather ever bagged a deer with his 12 gauge is beyond me . . . I guess he was just lucky. A scope with a mil-dot lens is most handy for deer hunting, and actually becoming quite trendy. I’d say it is a worthwhile investment, providing a person using it grasps the concept of its use prior to its purchase.  

Given all this I hope you don't still insist on pinning all your hopes for sighting in your rifle on some gadget that was printed up with the intention of misleading a gun owner about the intricacies of zeroing in their gun. For me, tin can lids were always the perfect target if you paint 'em and nail 'em to something for practice after you’re zeroed in; even better is a two inch tin can lid encircled by progressively larger sized lids that are painted alternatively. Nonetheless if you want to spend your time searching through the list of links to find the specific target that will magically increase the accuracy of your rifle and your personal marksmanship skills, the last link gives you plenty of targets to download and print for free. Should they be too big for your printer, you can always print a copy or save it to a disk and take it to Kinko's, OfficeMax, or Office Depot and have it blown up. Who knows maybe if you don’t find exactly what you are looking for and after trying several in lieu of the specific one you seek, you may find some consistency in your shooting inadvertently.