Paris for a week - off the beaten path ideas?

Question

Are there any good markets, unusual places in th city...general "untouristy" places of attraction. Any advice as to how to see the real side of Paris as opposed to the miniature-model-of-the-eiffel-tower-sold... touristy side would be very much appreciated. Thankyou!

Answer 1

Part of the reason that places are "touristy" is that there is something there that is worth seeing. In a place like Paris which has millions of tourists pass thru every year its hard to name a place that isn't "touristy" to at least some extent.

The only places you won't find tourists are in the poverty stricken banlieues on the outskirts which probably aren't the wisest places to visit.

Indeed, some of the places that have the largest tourist crowds are also the places that Parisians find the most desirable as residential areas. Wander around the 6th arrondissement and you can't swing a cat without hitting a tourist but the Hausmanian apartments along the blvd. St. Germain cost a million or more euros to and don't stay on the market very long when one is offered for sale.

The "real" Paris is everywhere and in every arrondissement and consists of attitude and lifestyle rather than a neat geographic box where a one time visitor can go look and come away believing that they hipper than others by having seen what others have not.

If you want to see the "real" Paris then you need to take the time to fall into the rhythm of the city and make yourself a part of a neighborhood if even only for a week or two. Rent an apartment rather than a hotel room. Establish yourself as a regular at a nearby cafe. Shop at the street markets. Buy a baguette every morning from the same boulangerie. When the waiter at the cafe asks "comme habitude?" (the usual?) or the fellow in the market offers you a taste of a new cheese he has that day then you can say you've seen the real Paris.

As for sights, some of the less touristy places might be:

1. Musée des Plans-Relief

An overlooked museum that is housed over the Army Museum on the Esplanade des Invalides. For years this place was just a garret filled with models of the various fortifications and walled towns in France. Prior to 1950 the public was not admitted since some of information that could gleaned from the models was considered a state secret. The collection of models was started by Louis XIV. The oldest model, representing the town of Perpignan, dates back to 1866.

2) Arena Lutetia on the rue Monge.

These are the remains of a Roman arena destroyed in the 3rd century. Completely forgotten during 1500 years they were rediscovered in 1869, when new streets were planned and diggings ordered. It was one of the largest amphitheatres of Gaul and could accommodate at least 15,000 spectators.

3) La Maison du Haut-Pignon at 51, rue de Montmorency, Paris 3rd arr.

This is the oldest house in Paris. It was built in 1407 by the writer and alchemist Nicolas Flamel. Look at the façade and see the inscription: "Ora et labora" (pray and work), which was the motto of the alchemists.

4) Cimetiere de Picpus

This is the burial place of the Marquis de Lafayette which can be found at 35, rue de Picpus. The only way into the cemetery is through an unmarked door in a larger, perpetually-closed gateway. You have to ring the doorbell and turn to the right after you pass through the door and find the entry 'official' who takes your entry fee.

An American flag flies over his grave and did so even during the n**i occupation of Paris.