Question:

Parrotlet biting?

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I've only had my bird for a couple days, and he's a biter! He will step up easily outside the cage, inside he's a bit more trouble about it. And the critter always wants to taste my fingers! When I try to get him to step up inside the cage, he'll usually bite, and when I try to "baby" pick him up (gently "grabbing" him), he bites. I tell him "No bite," but what else can I do to break him of this habit?

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  1. This is territorial behavior.

    It's instinctive and training them out of it is nearly impossible.

    How would you feel if suddenly your bedroom window opened and a gigantic hand reached in and gently yanked you out of bed.  You'd have some words to say, right?  No matter how gentle they were?

    Birds are prey animals.  Being "cornered" in a cage and grabbed tells their little birdy minds they're about to be dinner.  In his mind, he's fighting for his life.

    What to do?

    Open the cage and wait for the bird to come out on it's own.

    Have a command for when you want him to come out nicely.  The command will tell the bird what you want so that it doesn't draw it's own conclusions and freak.

    Good luck.


  2. they do not like to be "grabbed" at all. they think it's a predator and will bite of of instincts. most birds hate to be grabbed at because they were picked up against their will and can't escape because their wings are bound.

    they will not understand the words no bite or no. giving verbal attention to a bad behavior will inforce the bad behavior. say nothing and do not react to the bites. the one thing that will work is to withdraw your hand from the cage, turn the light out and shut the door to the room without a word and leave him for several hours alone. this will teach him when he bites he gets no attention. when yousay "no" or say "ouch" the bird gets a reaction and he enjoys that.

    you say you just got him, so he doesn't know you very well. it will take time. he is also testing to see how much he can get away with. just like a small child will test their parents to see what they can get away with. they will also go through a bull dog phase when they bite a lot.....and continue to push your buttons. this is when the above advice comes into play.

    reward GOOD behavior with a piece of fruit or lettuce. when you come to get him out offer him treats, healthy treats. he will learn you = treats and that you are good. it will also help to build up trust. you have to earn the trust of the bird even if it was tame when you bough him. work with him every single day this breed of bird needs daily contact and work to keep them tamed.....Also give loads of verbal praises to the bird when he does something well. it will take time and he will learn.

    he may be nipping to test out your finger, lots of birds do this and it's very normal for newly trained birds to do that. it will reduce when the bird has learned it can trust you.

    It will take time and lots of work. Love and attention for good behavior. Most of all patience and kindness. This breed of bird is a real firecracker, little bird with the personality of a large parrot. You will most definately will have your hands full and will be well rewarded when your bird bonds with you!

    It will go just fine....

  3. My sister has a few parrotlets and they all are aggressive especially when in the cage.  My sister is able to play with them once she gets the birds out of the cage.  Hers are even aggressive when they are on the cage.  In order to keep them tame you need to take them out of the cage every day.  The biting is more of an instinct for your bird.  The more you take him out of the cage the more your bird will get use to it.

  4. These answers are all excellent advice. A few things: A new bird for you usually means a new cage for the bird - one that he is NOT used to. He may still be territorial with the cage, but he is also nervous about the new cage. If the cage came with him, he is bound to be nervous about the move and where you have placed the cage. Location is very important, no high traffic areas, but he would still like to see what's going on in the household. A corner of a room with a window to look out is nice. My grey likes his top tray installed all the time so there is a "roof" over his head, then he knows there is no danger from above.

    In training your bird, you will have to put up with some bites, there is no getting around it. My grey is eight, I've had him for five years. He was already well-trained when I got him, so I am very lucky. During the first couple years, he bit me several times, drawing blood, too. He has only bit once in the past year. There is always a reason for it, the problem is figuring out that reason. Now, when he's "not in the mood" for some activity, he will only give a little nip that doesn't even hurt. If I insist, he may nip harder OR decide to go along with it, you never know.

    Lastly, I am a firm believer that parrots MUST learn to step up everywhere, including inside the cage. They must obey that command because they could be in some kind of trouble and you must be able to control the bird (and protect it, if necessary) by getting him onto your hand and to safety. For example, when Elmer is outside his cage, he will sometimes climb down to the floor, especially when he thinks he's not getting enough attention (lol). I have six cats, and I prefer that he stay off the floor (the "Up" command comes in handy here, but he will only go up if he's still ON the cage). If he gets to the floor, I have him step up immediately and put him back on the cage. He knows about the cats, too, so he is nervous on the floor and more than willing to step right up. You have to make sure that your bird knows that the safest place that he could possibly be is on your hand, then he will want to step up every time. Also, I do not recommend training the bird to step up directly to a hand held perch or stick, unless going FROM your hand onto that stick. When you place him on any perch from your hand, including back into the cage or onto the cage, use the "Perch" command. Be sure he is close enough to whatever you want him to perch upon so he can easily step off your hand and onto it. The "Step Up" command should be used only for stepping up onto your HAND. Your bird should not be confused as to what you want him to do; continuity is important.

    This bird is new for you, it will take some time for both of you to get used to each other. Feel free to email me with any questions or concerns. I don't know my way around here very well yet, so if you ask another question, to be honest, I may never see it! Good luck! Birds are the coolest!

    -Kookoo

    P.S. I must say that I do occasionally let Elmer come out of the cage on his own, also when guests or roommates want him to come out, they can do that, too. People are sometimes afraid of birds, I wouldn't make them stick their hands in the cage if they don't want to. If he does come out, it means he is ready for them to pet him and handle him once he is ON the cage.
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