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Rabbits! please help me!

by Guest58095  |  earlier

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Hi every one! Im getting a 9 and a half week old dutch next week and im not totaly sure what to do with it.could you please give website and toys and pics and names and basically everything you know about them. thanks in advance!

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  1. ok i'll tell you the same thing i told another person......

    1. CAGE: cage has to be big, a solid floor is fine and not too difficult to clean. Many cages meant for rabbits are still made with wire floors over pull out pans, designed to make cleaning easier. Wire floors are uncomfortable to a rabbit and can cause sores on their hocks!If you get a wire cage make sure the bottom is covered with a piece of wood, or grass or sisal mats (grass mats are are nice to have in solid floored cages too, to vary the surface and provide traction).

    The door to the cage should be about large enough to get a litter pan (and rabbit) through easily. A side door is probably best, as a top-opening cage makes getting the rabbit in and out a little harder. The opening should have smooth edges, or plastic guard strips over the edges of the wires.

    2.BEDDING: cedar and pine shavings should be avoided due to concerns over the aromatic oils they release. Use hardwood shavings such as aspen. Straw or hay is a good bedding material for rabbits.

    3. CARING FOR: they need a great deal of interaction with their owners and/or other rabbits to be happy. Daily playtime and exercise outside of their cage is necessary. Rabbits like to be near people, but they often would rather not be held.

    4.FOOD: Rabbit pellets alone are not a sufficient diet -- they need lots of good quality hay and a variety of fresh vegetables.

    (lettuce,carrots,etc.) When buying pellets from your local store, be sure to buy fresh pellets. Rabbit pellets should be stored in the refrigerator, and any food that will not be used within 2 months should be frozen for later use.

    5. OTHER: Rabbit pee can have a awful smell, so change their litter box(cage) frequently (spaying and neutering can help reduce the smell. In addition their pee is high in calcium so it will leave a chalky residue when it dries that can be hard to clean up (vinegar works pretty good for this).

    6. CLEANING THE CAGE: Remove any uneaten fresh foods (greens, veggies etc.) from the cage daily ( mornings and nights are the best).

    Remove hay from the floor of the cage -- if you don't use a hay rack, at least remove any hay that is wet or nasty.

    Wash out the food bowls, and wash and refill the water bottle.

    7. CLEANING CAGE WEEKLY: Remove all accessories from the cage.

    Remove all bedding from the cage.

    Wipe down the cage well with hot water (use vinegar to remove any pee spots). If you have a smaller cage, you may want to take it apart and rinse it with hot water (e.g in the tub or with a hose).

    Wash feeding dishes, the water bottle, hay rack and litter box with hot water.

    Clean any toys or furnishings that have become soiled.

    **It is a good idea to periodically disinfect your cage, but any disinfectant needs to be rinsed really well and isn't a good option for wood cages (which can soak up the chemicals) or cages that aren't easily moved to a place where they can be hosed off. A bleach solution (one part bleach to ten parts water) can be used to disinfect the cage, but make sure to rinse extremely well. **

    8. WATER: Rabbits should have water made available to them at all times, especially during the summer months. A hanging drops-style water dispenser is a great solution for keeping water from spilling and keeping it free of contaminants. The water dispenser should be refilled with fresh water every two days and should be cleaned and rinsed every time it is refilled.

    9.NAILS: Rabbit nails should be trimmed every two weeks. To trim your rabbit’s nails, use cat clippers and cut the sharp ends off of the nails. Be careful not to cut too deeply or it will bleed. Rabbits should never be declawed ( rabbits need their nails for climbing, walking and escaping predators.)

    10.CLEANING EARS: Rabbit ears should be checked daily for wax clogs or mites and cleaned every two weeks. Any black discharge or soreness in the ear could indicate mites or other infections that require the attention of a vet. To clean your rabbit’s ears, use a soft cotton-tipped swab to clean all the visible areas of the ear ** NEVER** insert the swab into the ear canal or in anywhere that you cannot see. Gently rub the swab to remove any wax or dirt that may have collected in the ear.

    11.BATHING:Rabbits are normally not bathed. Because bathing can cause extreme stress and because rabbits do not dry out quickly, bathing can cause rabbits to experience stress, chills and may induce shock. If your rabbit is diagnosed with fleas, check with your vet on the best way to treat the fleas. If your rabbit is ever completely soaked with water, dry the rabbit as best you can with a towel and immediately move them to a warm, dry location (in the sun)

    Anything else just ask!

    Good Luck with your rabbit!! =)


  2. Our bunny lives in an outdoor run year round, we feed him hay, fresh grass and vegetables along with a pelleted complete feed.  Bunnies can be litter trained quite easily which makes cleaning up after them much easier, pick up and cuddle/pet your bunny a lot if you want to be able to handle it when it's older.  They make harnesses for them but they will respond quite negatively if you try to pressure them into following a leash so you basically follow were they want to go.  Heavy dishes are best, our bunny has quite an attitude and overturns his dishes regularly.

  3. go yo  

    rabbits.org

    it will tell you everything

    good luck  

  4. http://www.gomestic.com/Pets/Usual-Pets-...

    this is a great website, just enough info, but not too much..

    here is a picture of our gal marissa, who sadly died recently.

    http://www.picable.com/Nature/Animals/Fu...

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