Rat tips and advice?

Question

Hi, I've recently got a rat off someone who had to leave the UK. She's called Koko, is about 1 year old and adorable. I've have lots of pets before but never a rat. Can anyone give me some general tips about what they like and their behavior etc as well as ideas for treats, games and stuff to keep her amused. I get her out every evening for a couple of hours but would love more advice.

I've also just got her a bigger cage as the one she had was a bit pants, and she seems to love her new home (she has more space to climb and it has a hammock) but I've heard that rats are very sociable, so I was wondering if anyone had tips for introducing a second rat (i will probably get a younger female)

Thanks !

Answer 1

TREATS- my rat used to love ham and fresh lettice!! don't give them cheese it can kill them, if not make them so obese the die of heart attacks.......

no they don't need company as long as you show her lots of love and keep her busy teach her things rats are soooo smart .

but if you want another def go young female of there will be fights.... there still may be for a day or so untill the bigger one proves her dominance cats are the same

Answer 2

Do not get another rat under any circumstances! Rats are nocturnal by nature so she will be mainly sleeping during the daytime anyway. Another rat being introduced will more than likely fight her for dominance in the cage. Not a good idea. If she is happy leave her as she is.

It is best to get toys to challenge her mind, such as treat boxes, where  they have to work out how to get the food. Your local pet supermarket usually has a good wide range of toys for her.

So to sum up, keep her on her own if that is what she is used to, buy her some toys to challenge her mind and enjoy Koko as she is...

Answer 3

That is wonderful, she sounds like she's in great hands! :)

First, there are a ton of games and activities you can play with her. Interaction is really important since they are so intelligent, and get bored easily.

http://www.dapper.com.au/fun.htm

http://www.ratsauce.com/toys_games/index...

Now you are totally right about them needing companions. But the thing about female rats, is they can get a bit snarky and bossy around other rats. This is why the new compaion must be tough enough to stand up for herself, meaning she should also be an adult. If you get a baby, it is very possibe that Koko will pick on her to the point of stressing, so not a great idea.

The first step before introducing however, is quarantine. This is mandatory for rats. Rats have illnesses that they are capable of carrying (without being affected by) and not showing any symptoms. But when introduced to other rats, those rats will get sick, and eventually so will the original carrier rat. The quarantine period is meant to keep the new rat in different air for no less than 2 weeks (preferbly more). Within this time, potential illnesses die on thier own, and afterwards the rats are safe to introduce.

For the actual introduction, you should not have too much problems. You can put thier cages near eachother, and take them out several times a day to meet on a neutral surface like a bathtub. You can also allow one to go into the other's cage while the other is not in there. All this is to get them used to eachother's scent.

After about a week, scrub one cage clean, and put them in together. They will probably get into scuffles, but this is normal at first. As I said, females are almost problemless since they aren't very territorial.

Here are some sites about quarantine and introductions.

http://www.petratscanada.com/ratcare.htm

http://www.ratz.co.uk/

Answer 4

u should get another female rat for her as a friend. u can never spend all day with her like another rat can so she would be much happier. they will fight occasionally, but that is just how it is and plus its better to have some imperfections in her life life otherwise it would just be boring for her. before you automatically introduce the new rat to your rat u first have to get another cage for the new rat. it can be small though because she won't be in it for long. u have to quarantine the new rat. put the new rat in the other cage for a week or so and then u can gradually  get your rat use to the new one and when u know for sure that they are okay with each other then u can put them together.

Answer 5

Simple things-

-aspen shavings for bedding, no other shavings are safe (cause respitory disease)

-basic rat and mouse food every day in a not tipable bowl (ceramic or metal) topped up with veges and fruit regularly (look online or in a rat care book for a list of dangerous foods)

-Fresh water in a bottle (that hangs from the side of the cage) not a bowl they mess it up too much otherwise.

-provide chew toys such as the cardboard rolls out of plastic wrap, gift wrap and similar, wooden chews from the pet shop (locally made and without too many dyes).

-house, they need a house within their cage like an igloo, make it big enough for her and her new friend, you will find them in the rat or rodent section of your pet shop, they look like igloos except plastic . This is where they will sleep, and give them some shredded non-inked paper and some soft material.

and you take her out enough.

you CAN introduce new rats and intoducing a new rat is a great idea as they like company.

-separate for two weeks in case new rat has a disease or something the other rat could catch.

-introduce in neutral territory, some good places are a bed or large bath tub.

-there could be some minor scuffles, signs of serious fighting are side stepping, ruffled fur and violent biting and rolling around squeeking really loudly. If this happens separate and try again later or the next day. This might happen though so don't panic if it does, they will soon get to know each other.

-get them to meet like this about 6 times or until they have bonded. To begin with one will demonstrate dominance by mounting the other one or nipping it etc. The submissive rat will go up to the dominant rat and l**k it under the chin area (this is a good sign). A good trick is to drip a small amount of yoghurt on each rat and they have to l**k it off one another.

-They have bonded when they go up to one another confidently, they groom one another (not just submissive l*****g), they start to play fight (they will both stand up on their hind legs and one will push the other one over on its back and then tickle or l**k its tummy and chin (yes cute!), the one on the ground might squeek but it should be a long, quiet, wailing "I give up" squeek rather than a shrill "OUCH!" squeek.

-Once you are convinced they get along, clean the cage they will both live in thoroughly  with mild soapy water (i use about 3 drops and no more of mild dishwashing liquid in a bucket of hot water) and then rinse off thoroughly and dry. Place rats in.

-Watch, one or two minor scuffles is fine as they adjust but any major fighting separate and start again. But they should be okay

Health tips-handle every day and check body regularly for any lumps as tumours are really common. Also make sure eyes are clear and remain discharge free (discharge is red, a tiny bit is okay but not if it's constant).  Also sneezing constantly is a bad sign.

Good Luck

Answer 6

hi there well done you not everybody likes rats im glad youve bought her a bigger cage too she will like that toilet roll tubes are cheap and cheerful toys if she is not too large you can feed her fruit, they can chew on raw hide chews that you buy for dogs this is good for their teeth as it wears them down. you can  buy specific treats from pet shops for her. my sons rats used to love cornflakes or cooked meat,also they are ok with chicken bones as well. just make sure she has got access to fresh water and food everyday. remove any uneaten food clean her out weekly once a month dismantle her cage and give it a really good clean with hot soapy water rinsed well. i personally would not introduce another one as it could be a disaster with both rats being injured. just spend time with her handle her everyday and she will be fine.

Answer 7

Myth #1: Rats are dirty, disease carriers

Not at all. In fact, rats are the cleanest of all the rodents. They clean themselves head to toe on average of about 6 times a day. They do this by l*****g their paws and then running it through their fur. Often times they will help clean their cage mates as well. It’s also not unusual for rats to want to clean themselves after you’ve held them so that they can get your “grime” off of themselves. Rats are also very meticulous housekeepers. They will arrange their toys just the way they like it and only do their “business” on one side of their cage, so they don’t get the rest of it dirty. This is part of why they are so easy to litter box train. They do need an occasional bath, but all animals do. Disease should not be a problem if you buy your rat from a pet store or a rat breeder. Sometimes they can get illnesses, but in most cases they are not contagious.

Myth #2: Rats are not social animals

This myth is 100% false. Rats are very social creatures, which is why it is recommended to buy two. When a person first gets a rat, they need to spend at least 2 hours with the rat(s) daily. After the first 2-4 weeks, this time can be reduced to about 1 hour a day, unless you only have one rat. In this case, it is recommended to spend 2-4 hours with it daily. If you do not spend time with your rat(s), it can become depressed, which can be fatal. If you spend time with your rat(s) daily, it will form a bond with you. Whenever it sees you coming, it will run to the cage door to greet you. They will always want to play with you, and love being around you. Some people even compare their relationships with rats to that of a dog. Most rats also adjust to change quite well and are good around other people because of their personalities.

Myth #3: Rats are not intelligent

Yes, rats are very clever. They are actually the smartest of all the rodents (along with cleanliness). Most rats learn their names and how to come when called within days. Several can learn basic tricks, such as jumping through a hoop or going through a maze. In fact, rats can be trained how to use a litter box, like a cat. Most rats are actually happy to use a litter box to keep their homes clean. Because rats are so smart, it is why they are used many times in science experiments.

Myth #4: Rats bite a lot

This myth can vary, depending on the rat, but for the most part, rats do not bite. It is not in their nature. Some will if they feel pressured, insecure, frightened, stressed, etc. You usually have to just relax the rat and it should be fine. Fight or Flight. If this behavior continues, it is advised to see a veterinary professional. Now, biting should not be confused with nibbling/nipping. Often times a rat will nibble at your palm or finger. This can be for a variety of reasons. It could be just simply trying to get your attention, or it may be a bit nervous. If you are handling a rat that you’ve bonded with, it can be the ultimate rat compliment. When a rat grooms itself, it will often nip at its coat, or that of another cage mate. This is basically what it is doing to you. If your rat is doing this, it means that it accepts you as an equal. They could also be “exploring” you to get used to you, since they have such poor eyesight. This can also become a problem if you start feeding your rat through the bars of its cage. It will start to recognize your fingers as food, and may begin to get the two mixed up, resulting in it trying to “eat” your finger.

Myth #5: Rats are nocturnal, and noisy at night

This is only a half true myth. Yes, rats are in fact nocturnal, which is why they can be great family pets. They will sleep during the day while the family is away at work and school. But, rats can also change their sleeping habits to suit yours. They will be up and willing to play when they know you are. For example, if you wake up at 6:30 and leave for work at 7:30, they will be up during that time to see you. Depending on the rat, they can be noisy, but are relatively quiet. This can be fixed by placing them in another room, getting them a new wheel that doesn’t squeak, switching their toys, etc.

Rats don’t need much, but here is a list of the necessary equipment when owning one.

•A cage

•Food, including: a staple diet (dry food), lab blocks, and fresh fruits & veggies

•Bedding

•Water Bottle and Food dishes

•Litter Pan

•Litter

•Several toys (these need to be switched often to keep the rat stimulated)

•Things to chew on (to keep their teeth at the appropriate length)

•A vet that treats pocket pets

There are also several things that are not necessary, but are nice to have for your rat.

•A nesting box/“hideaway”

•A wheel

•A roaming ball

•Treats (these help when training your rat)

•Vitamins

•Cage cleaner

•Shampoo/wipes for your rat

•A leash/harness

•An extra mini cage (while their cage is being cleaned)

•A travel cage/bag (for trips to the vet - this can also be the same as your mini cage)

Basic Rat Information

• Life Expectancy: 2-5 years

• Size: 6-10 inches (with the tail being 6-8 inches)

• Experience Level: Beginner

• Ages 8+

Housing

Because of rats’ active, curious, and playful nature, they need a large cage that will keep them entertained. It is advised to get them a cage with at least one extra floor or balcony. A minimum of 2 cubic feet per rat is suggested. Some people tend to use aquariums, but this is not the way to go. When aquariums are used to house rats, they do not get the proper ventilation, resulting in respiratory disease. A wire cage is recommended to house your ratties. The bars of its cage should be about ½” apart, because otherwise your rat could escape. Its cage should not have a wire bottom or wire balconies. This is hard on rats’ feet, and they can become stuck. They can obtain a condition on their paws called bumblefoot if they walk on wire surfaces. The cage shown here can house up to four rats.

Diet

Rats are pretty flexible when it comes to their diet, however there are certain things that they need and certain things to look out for. They need a staple diet, which is the main thing that they eat. It’s mainly just small, dry pellets mixed with dry corn, seeds, oats, alfalfa, etc. You do need to watch what parts of the dry food your rat eats to make sure they aren’t picking and choosing certain ingredients. If so, they could be skipping out on certain vitamins and minerals that they require. Some people feed their rat cat food, which is not good. It is too high in protein for them. Then they need what are called lab blocks. These are thick, hard pellets. These are essential because they help keep their ever-growing teeth to the length they should be.

Rats daily need fresh fruits and veggies as well. Although they cannot be given too much, or it can result in diarrhea. About 1 teaspoon, or one ½” block should be enough. Fruits should only be given as treats about 1-2 times a week. Veggies (esp. leafy greens) should be given about 4-6 times a week. Always remove uneaten fruits and veggies that have been there for at least 12 hours to avoid tummy aches.

Here’s a list of safe foods for your rat:

• Fruit: apples, cherries, grapes, bananas, strawberries, other berries, melons, plums

• Veggies: broccoli, potatoes, peas, carrots, cooked sweet potato, kale, parsley, bok choy, squash, yams, leafy greens, carrots

• Cooked lean meats

• Whole wheat pasta and bread

• Cheese

• Cooked beans

• Yogurt (esp. w/ live cultures)

• Brown rice

• Unsweetened breakfast cereals

• Mealworms

• Treats: nuts, sunflower seeds (very fatty though), carob chips, unsalted/unbuttered popcorn, pizza crust, etc. Really anything that does not have high quantities of sugar, fat, and/or salt.

There are also several foods that can be lethal to your pet rat. These include:

• Chocolate

• Raw beans

• Raw sweet potato

• Cabbage

• Brussel Sprouts

• Green Potatoes

• Green Beans

• Oranges

• Sweet sugary treats and any other kinds of junk food

• Caffeinated or carbonated beverages

Potty Time

Rats can be potty trained, sometimes in a matter of days. When you decide to potty train your rat, keep a close eye on it first for a couple of days. Usually rats will choose a certain area/corner of its cage to eliminate waste in. Once a general area is located, place a litter pan there (of course with litter in it). It is very important that you use separate litter and bedding, to establish what is the bathroom and what is living space for your rat. So they recognize it’s the toilet, put their droppings and wet bedding in the litter box, then also place your rat in the box. Whenever you catch you rat using it as an actual litter pan, reward it with treats and extra petting. When you catch it going elsewhere, say “No” in a firm voice, then place it in the litter box. Eventually, it will catch on.

Cleaning

Rats’ cages need to be cleaned every 5-9 days, or else they can begin to smell. First, all of the toys and accessories need to be removed and individually wiped down with warm soapy water. Then, remove the rats and place them in another cage, or other contained area. Throw out all of the bedding (which needs to be changed every 2-3 days, along with litter) and wipe down all of the surfaces of the cage, including the shelves. You can buy cleaner especially for this purpose. Then you can return the cage back to normal and place your rats back in it. You don’t need to clean the actual rats often. Males do tend to acquire an orange-ish discharge on their skin, which can be avoided if you use fur cleaning wipes on them once every 1-2 weeks. These are available at PetSmart.

Introducing new rats

Well, first of all, you need to create neutral ground. In other words, ground that neither of them claim as &qu

Answer 8

they are very sociable animals and id suggest getting another girl or two. to introduce them put them in neutral terratory like your bed or something or if you cant do that but the new girl in the older ones cage. they can be nocturnal but ours are aake during the day (we have babies running around now) however they do get more lively in the evening.

um not sure whatelse to say but feel free to add me to yahoo messenger or email me for more advice

Answer 9

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