Question:

Rats: Cage/Supplies?

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Okay I am thinking to getting 2 possibly 3 rats (same s*x).

What cage would be most suitable. I know I know the bigger the better but I am kinda needing something reasonably priced and not to much of a space hog.

Also, what s*x would be better? M vs. F?

Also, what are the essential/basics that I need to have (like the 1st day).

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  1. I had a female (mouse close enough lol) and I had just a regular cage for her but she started squeezing out! So then I bought one that was 2 stories and she LOVED it! So try getting one that has the attachable tube at the side with a 2nd story. Also make sure you have a couple "houses" in them so they go in for their privacy. they like sleeping in there. I personally had a female and she was lovable and adorable.  I'm getting sad thinking about how much I miss her... now the essentials are the cage, wood chips, the little houses are super important, wooden chew toys so their teeth don't get too big. Get the water bottles that hang with the roller ball. If you get a bowl with water, it'll tip over and soad the wood chips.. not good... and food of course. Also have a wheel inside the cage so they can exercise. Most rats love the roller ball that you put them in so they can run around the house and you don't end up losing them lol. It's a big clear ball. Just make sure you get the wooden chew toys. That's something that's easily overlooked. They love them. Oh and get treats too. My mouse loved pumpkin seeds.


  2. Rats can grow quite large so I'd suggest buying a used fish tank (20 gal?) some shavings and something to hide in.

    You'll need a hood for the tank - or a screen topper (found at a pet store)  

    You'll need food -  water bottle - and might think of using metal items vs. plastic so they dont chew it.

    Speaking of chewing - be sure at some point to get wood or keep roughage in the cage (carrots) in order to help keep their teeth filed.  

    Rats have a short life (3 years?) so hopefully the rats you are getting aren't very old - so they dont die on your right away!

    Edit - forgot the s*x preference - FEMALES not doubt!

  3. I have a write up on good rat cages here:

    http://www.petinfopackets.com/rats/ratca...

    As for what s*x, that's up to you. Here's the general rule:

    Males: Tend to become lazier and more laid back as they age, making them better lap rats, scent mark more (urine dribbles), have a little more odor to them.

    Females: Tend to remain more active and playful as they age, prone to benign mammary and pituitary tumors later in life if not spayed.

    This is just the general rule though and every rat has it's own personality.

    Essential basics:

    - Large, multi-level cage

    - Safe bedding (NOT pine, cedar, sawdust, corn cob, or most cat litters) like aspen or Carefresh

    - A hidey house (Super Pet Igloos work well)

    - Food bowl and water bottle

    - A good rat diet (harder than you might think to find, most pet store diets are terrible), I have a write up on good rat diets here: http://www.petinfopackets.com/rats/ratfe...

    - A solid wheel (optional, some rats use them some don't), not wire since those are dangerous

    More research resources:

    http://www.petinfopackets.com/rats/ratin... (My website)

    http://www.rmca.org/

    ftp://members.aol.com/juliesrats/e4ninde...

    http://ratguide.com/

    http://www.goosemoose.com/rfc/index.php

  4. I have always had females, and they seem to all get along fine (I had up to 4 at one point all together). The girls are more high strung and the boys are more laid back and content to sit on your shoulder. What you want depends on you, and there are success and horror stories on both sides. I recommend getting them from the same litter, that way you already know that they get along.

    I would get a ferret cage or a kitten cage with small gaps:

    http://pet.imageg.net/graphics/product_i...

    The cage I personally use for my rat came from someone's attic. I am not sure where you can find one like it, but it has 1/2" x 1" gaps all over the cage and a litterpan that fits snugly under the cage. I have looked for one like it for other people, and I can't find one. The dimensions are 24" x 24" x 36"

    My rat is very content in it, and it has a shelf and we build her hammock in the top corner. Despite what anyone else says, rats LOVE hammocks, I reccommend using old t-shirts so you can change it out every couple weeks.

    Other supplies include:

    -- Quality rat blocks:

    Do not buy seed mixes, they pick and choose and do not get a good diet. Use blocks. They may not be thrilled about them at first, but as long as you don't give them too many treats, they will eat the blocks. The rodent blocks are good for their teeth. Some smaller pet shops can sell you rodent blocks in much larger quantities than the chain pet stores. My feed and supply store offers up to 50 pound bags of rat blocks.

    -- Ceramic Food dishes:

    They won't chew on them like plastic dishes and they are sturdy and will not move around the cage or be flipped easily.

    -- Water Bottle: Get one that clings to the side of the cage. Make sure that the water bottle closes tightly and is big enough for all the rats and small enough that you need to put fresh water in every other day or so (I recommend about 8oz).

    -- Toys: Get things that hang from the cage, possibly a ball, and somewhere for them to hide in the cage.

    -- Litter/Bedding: Usually if the rats will be in the bedding, you should use ASPEN wood shavings (NOT cedar or pine). But I have recently found that using rabbit/ferret litter (NOT cat litter) in the pan under the cage (wire bottom) is MUCH easier to clean (scoop like kitty litter) and it does not smell nearly as much. The rats should have some bedding with them as well, so they have something to snuggle in, but old t-shirts and paper towels are wonder items!

    -- Last but not least, take the rats to the vet as SOON as you get them. I recommend getting them from a rescue or shelter, because some shelters offer free vet exams from surrounding veterinarians. But shelter animals are also better because buying from a shelter does not promote the breeding of rats. Rats are sometimes bred in mill-type situations as well, and some are inbred solely for the purpose of being feeders. (My second rat was sold to me at 3 1/2 weeks old because the mother was already pregnant again and they were trying to get rid of them before the mom had the new babies...Not a good situation. All my other rats (3) have come from the humane society. Look on petfinder.com to see where there are rats available in rescues and shelters near you.

    Good luck with your soon to be new kids!

  5. I have had numerous rats as pets...good choice by the way...they are very sweet and cute.  I would choose females for 2 reasons--1. males tend to smell more and 2. females are more attractive (have you ever seen and adult male rat--they have nuts the size of mini-torpedos--gross!).  

    Cage size:  Rats do tend to get fairly large so I would get as big a cage as you can afford.  

    First day needs:  cage, water bottle, bedding, food.

  6. Get males. They are best. I have to males and they are SO cute and smart.

    go to your local petshop for supplies. Ask them what you need.

  7. Oh rats are such wonderful animals and lovely pets!  Sooo smart!

    I don't know about specific products (because you might not have the same availability as I do depending on where you are).  Here are things to look for in a cage

    *Wire mesh so they can climb

    *Thinly spaced bars - I've heard 1/2 inch by 1/2 is good.  My older rat has much larger spacing and he hasn't ever tried to escape but better safe then sorry.

    * DON'T get a cage with wire mesh on the bottom.  It hurts their feet and will eventually cause permanent damage.  

    You will need

    *rat food - I use a mix and blocks

    *food dish bowls

    *Water bowl - I use this instead of a bottle.  My rat likes to wash his face in it.

    * A litter box.  It is soooo easy to train rats to use the litter box for their p**p (not so easy with the pee).  Use a courner litter and for the first week or so pick up all their p**p and put it there.  When cleaning the cage save some of their p**p (gross I know) and put it in their clean litter.  It took my rat two days to figure it out.  So much easier than house training a dog!

    * Litter for the litter box - no cider or pine

    * Some old towels.  I cut mine up into 1/2 foot by 1/2 a foot squares and use them in my rats house for comfort.  Then I can easily throw them in the washing machine to clean them.  This saves sooo much money!

    *Parrot toys!  They love them!  Try different things

    * A wheel - mine never uses his wheel but he was old when I got him.

    Look at your local shelter to see if you can rescue a rat.  I heard girl rats are more energetic and boy rats are calmer.  Boy rats might have fights with each other if they don't have enough space or if they were not litter mates.  

    Also remember not to give the rats too much protein as it can cause skin problems.  Remember to spend time with them each day, they absolutely love spending time outside their cage.  

    Besides that... I think you're good!  Have fun!

    ***Oh and I forgot!  A house!  I admit I got this idea from the first person that responded.  I use a plastic house because it's easier to clean.

    * wood blocks for the rats to chew on.  You can also give them any kind of bone. They will literally eat a chicken bone... crazy stuff.
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