Rats?!?!?!?

Question

I want to get a pet rat but i have no idea how to take care of them.What stuff do they need and whats the price range?Also when do they need to go to a vet and how can i make sure my pet Rat is healthy?

P.S::If you want Best Answer--with 10pt-- Then i'm looking for long spaced out answers =]

THANKS =]

EmO o.0 0.o

Answer 1

I got my first pet rats about 3 years ago and they passed away last Jan. I went out and got two more babies about a month after and they are my world right now. I can let you know about things you'll need and just odd little quirks about them.

First off you will definitely want to get two. If you want more then you have to get them in multiples of two or one will be the odd one out and will get harassed by the other dominant ones. Rats are incredible social creatures and having more then one will make sure they are not bored or depressed when you are not playing with them.

As in a cage, you're going to want a medium to big cage. When I first got my rats I completely misjudge how big they were going to get! They look so tiny as babies. Also be very careful when picking out your cage. Rats chew. A lot. They find plastic to be especially entertaining so I would stay away from cages with plastic bottoms or sides.

My boyfriend and I went on a shopping spree one day for our rats and bought them everything they would need for a while including their new cage, bedding, food and toys. Altogether we paid $130 but that is a little ridiculous and we did go a little over the top. We bought them a ferret cage to run around in with multiple levels because we were thinking about buying a ferret in the future. The cage we got cost $80 and then we spent $50 in food, bedding and toys. They like to hide so we bought them a little house to put in the cage. We bought them a huge rat wheel, but to our disappointment they don't like it and never go on it. We bought them treats, a food bowl and some shampoo for them too.

At major pet stores or on the internet you can look for a starter kits that come with everything you need to start out.

Now for the rats in general.

I took one of my rats to the vet once. And that was to put her to sleep. She had cancer tumors all over her body and it was just sad seeing her waste away and not want to move for anything. Domestic rats are highly prone to cancer. She was about two years old at the time, so she had a long life according to rat standards. Other then that, anytime I had a question about my rats, I looked it up on the internet and always found exactly what I needed to know. They are nocturnal creatures so if they sleep a lot during the day and are up a lot at night then that is normal. Other then that if you think something is wrong or different with your rat then just ask around on the internet and you'll find what you need.

Every rat is different. My first two rats bit us a lot. And their bites were malicious and drew blood quite often. But they were very social and loved to be held. My two rats now don't like to be held as much, but they have never bit me. They love to nibble on me if I stick my finger in their cage and it tickles, but they have never made me bleed. So it's pretty much the luck of the draw because it's only over time that you can tell what your rat is going to be like, not for the 5 minutes you hold it in the pet store before you buy them. (Actually the funny thing is that my first two pet rats were bred for being pets, and they were more mean then the ones I have now which were bred to be feeders.)

I wouldn't get a boy and a girl rat unless you want to venture into breeding. I don't know anything about breeding them so I'm not going to even go there. Male rats are very dominant and if you put two male rats that have not grown up together in the same cage, there will be blood. I suggest you go with the female rats because they are more docile then the males. I don't know, maybe I'm partial to females because the males have the huge balls they drag around behind them and it is not very attractive to look at... lol. I suggest first buying rats that grew up together so there is not as much fighting over dominance once they get into a new environment. Either way, rats will fight and wrestle with each other a great deal. I have woke up many times at night to a piercing scream from one of my rats... it sounds horrible but they are just rough housing. Just look after them and if you ever notice blood I would separate them.

They great thing about rats is that they will eat anything. It's never "Oh my gosh, it's 11:00 at night and I need rat food!" It's more like "Oh, I'm out of rat food. Want some goldfish crackers? Or how about some Cheerios?" They love fresh veggies and fruit, and you can get some rat food just to have on hand so that you know they are getting what they need, but they are very low maintenance when it comes to their diets. Just no candy or chocolately things and they'd be fine.

And rats hoard their food. So it might look like they are eating everything, but life up their house or look in the corner or the cage and you'll find a pile of the food you gave them the night before. It's like they think that every time they get fed it's going to be the last time so they have to ration it. Cracks me up.

And finally just like any other rodent/cage dwelling animal, you just have to keep up with cleaning it. Clean the litter when it smells bad and every three months or so take everything out and rinse the cage out well. I wouldn't use soap unless you rinse it out really well.

They really are great pets. I hope this helps you out in deciding if they are the right pet for you. :)

Answer 2

Dear Rat Care Inquirer,

Rats are very intelligent, but curious animals, just like most other rodent pets. If you've taken care of hamsters, gerbils or mice, rat care is fairly similar.

First off, you should initially purchase two rats, same s*x and put them in the cage together. You will find that if you have two rats in the same cage, they will be generally happier. You should have enough space for them, though.

Something that you need to pay attention to more in rats than any other rodent, is the cleanliness of their environment. It's an ongoing argument, however mostly true, rats can be called the most hygienic of the rodent pet family. You will find them cleaning themselves and their cage friend. They also care a lot about how clean their cage is.

If you go to www.petco.com or www.petsmart.com, you can find food and cage accessories for them. The accessories are pretty much the same for any rodent. (Wheel, toys, tubes, chew toys, etc..)

The good thing about rats is that they do not gnaw and bite like other rodents do, which is very good while handling them. You need to make sure you can give your rat the best care possible, and as much care as possible.

If you need any additional help, please e-mail me,

Pet Rodent Expert

Answer 3

Cage: 2 square feet per rat, no less than 16" in width (skinny cages can cause permanent back issues) bar spacing 1/2"

Petco's rat mansion is perfect for up to 3 rats. No solid-wall cages or aquariums.

$75-100 for cage.

Bedding: Yesterday's news, Kiln-dried pine, or fabric. No cedar as the harmful oils cannot be removed. No carefresh because it is too dusty.

$1-20 monthly, varies immensely, especially smart to buy in bulk.

Food: Mazuri, Oxbow, Regal Rat, Harlan Teklad blocks mixed with unsugared cereals, uncooked pasta, high-quality dog food. Also fruits, veggies, and other safe human foods. http://ratfanclub.org/diet.html

$10 monthly for staple diet.

Water bottle $5

Vet: When you hear excessive sneezing (some sneezing is ok when introduced to new surroundings), hear crackling in lungs, see red around nose and eyes, see bleeding that won't stop, limping, weight loss

$50 for vet visit about average in US

Hammocks- 25¢ a piece for thrift store fabric napkins or placemats (already sewn around edges), 88¢ at walmart for loose leaf binder clips in school section to hang hammocks

Toys- $1 doggie rope toy to climb, $15 for 12 inch wheel (no smaller for adult rats, back and neck issues taken into account), free boxes of shreded paper to climb in

1 companion rat to sleep with, groom with, chatter with, wrestle with- priceless

Answer 4

Background

The domestic rat is a descendant of the wild brown rat (Rattus norvegicus) and has been bred as a pet for about a hundred years. Pet rats are much less fearful than their wild cousins, and when handled gently, they quickly learn to enjoy riding on their human friends’ shoulders and napping in their laps.

The average rat ranges from 14 to 18 inches long, including the seven-inch tail. These companion rodents come in a variety of coat types and colors, from curly and shiny to black, white and black-and-white. If well cared for, rats typically live 2 1/2 to three years.

Curious, intelligent and always up for some fun, rats can be great pets for kids—but young caretakers should always be supervised by an adult. These animals are not toys, and must be treated with kindness and respect.

Cost

When you first get your pet, you’ll need to spend about $35 for a cage. Food runs about $50 a year, plus $20 annually for toys and treats, and $220 annually for litter and bedding material. We recommend purchasing your rats from a breeder or, even better, adopting them from a local shelter or small-animal rescue group.

Housing

Rats are very social with members of their own kind, and should be kept in pairs at minimum. Baby rats can be removed from their litters at about six weeks of age. A pair of females is recommended for first-time rat caretakers. Males can do well together if introduced when they are young. Females, on the other hand, are more accepting of new friends introduced later in life.

Note that a neutered male can live with females, or a spayed female can live with males. Do not keep intact males and females together, as they will breed—and breed. The average rat litter is 12 young, and can be as high as 20.

Rats do best in wire cages because they enjoy climbing, and the wire offers good ventilation. A cage that is 2’ x 2’ x 2’ will generally do for a pair of rats, but a larger space would be much appreciated. If you plan to keep more than that, you’ll need a larger cage. The floor should be solid, and a bedding of aspen or pelleted recycled paper must be provided. Do not use pine or cedar shavings, which can be harmful to your pets. If you find that your rats like to make nests, provide shredded paper towels or napkins for this purpose.

A large, multi-level cage designed for ferrets can also make a great rat home, as can a large aquarium. If you opt for the latter, you’ll need a screen cover to provide ventilation, and will probably need to clean the cage more often to keep odor problems under control.

Whatever type of cage you choose, don’t forget the furniture! Provide small boxes or flower pots to hide in (it’s very necessary for your rats to have a quiet place to which they can retreat) and PVC tubes for your rats to run through. You can also add a tree branch for them to climb on. Some rats enjoy running on an exercise wheel, so you may want to get yours one. Make sure that the wheel has a solid surface without wire rungs, so their tails cannot get caught while running.

Keep in mind that a bored rat is an unhappy rat, and it’s up to you to provide the fun and games for your little guys. They LOVE toys, and you can offer yours many of the same toys that are enjoyed by parrots, including swings and ropes for climbing.

Rats can be prone to colds, so be sure to keep the cage out of drafts. Intense direct sunlight should also be avoided, as rats are highly susceptible to heatstroke. A room kept at 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit should be just right. Make sure the cage is easily accessible for clean-up by placing it away from the wall. (And P.S., it’s especially great if you can find a location where the family gathers in the early evening—your gregarious pets will love it!)

Diet

Your pets’ main diet should consist of rat blocks, a high-quality pellet chow formulated for rodents. Look for a brand that lists soy meal as the main ingredient. This food should be available at all times.

The ASPCA recommends offering small amounts of fresh fruits and vegetables to your rats every day. Peas, broccoli, carrots, apples and bananas are good foods to start with, but it’s fun to try new things and find out your pets’ favorites. Rats love people food, and you can give yours the occasional table scrap, such as cooked pasta, small pieces of egg or chicken, or a bit of pizza crust. Treats need to be limited to prevent obesity.

Do not give your rats chocolate, corn, candy, caffeinated and carbonated beverages, onions, sticky foods such as taffy and peanut butter, and junk food.

Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. A water bottle with a drinking tube that attaches to the side of the cage is the best way to go.

General Care

Remove droppings, uneaten food and soiled areas of bedding from your pets’ cage every day. Clean the cage completely once a week by replacing dirty bedding and scrubbing down the rest of the cage with warm, soapy water.

Like that of all rodents, a rat’s front teeth grow continuously. Provide unpainted, untreated pieces of wood, dog biscuits or safe cardboard or rawhide chew toys for your rats to gnaw on. This is crucial for keeping their teeth in tip-top condition and preventing dental problems.

Rats are friendly and curious by nature, but you’ll need to get your pets used to you—and used to being handled. Start by feeding them small treats. When they’re comfortable with that, you can pick them up, one hand supporting the bottom, the other over the back. When you get to know each other better, don’t be surprised if your little friends want to snuggle and be petted.

Once your rats are hand-tamed, you should let them play outside of the cage in a safe, secure area for an hour or so every day. This out-of-cage playtime is mandatory—and will keep your smart, active friends mentally stimulated and physically fit. Just be sure to supervise at all times, please.

Veterinary Care

If you think one of your rats is sick, don’t wait until your regularly scheduled annual check-up—seek medical attention immediately. Common signs that something isn’t right with your rat include sneezing, lethargy, weight loss, dull eyes, diarrhea and difficulty breathing. Rats are particularly susceptible to external parasites such as mites. If you think your animal is infested, a trip to the vet is in order to clear up the infestation.

Rat Supply Checklist

- Wire cage, large aquarium with screen cover or multi-level ferret cage

- Aspen or pelleted recycled paper bedding

- Small boxes or flower pots

- Tree branch for climbing

- Exercise wheel (solid, no rungs)

-PVC tubes for tunneling

- Rodent chow, block or pellet form

- Attachable water bottle with drinking tub

- Unpainted, untreated piece of wood, dog biscuits or safe chew toy for dental health

- Safe and rodent-appropriate toys, including swings, ropes and other toys made for parrots.

heres a link to TONS AND TONS of information on rats

http://www.petratscanada.com/ratcare.htm

http://ratguide.com/care/

http://www.quite.co.uk/rats/

http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/careofrat...

haha is this long and spaced out enough?

Answer 5

pet rats are great to have, they need rat food, bedding (not aspen), water bottle, food dish, chew treats (their teeth grow non-stop so they need something to help file them down) , a house to sleep in, a cage, exercise ball or wheel.  they are social animals so i would consider getting 2 of the same s*x otherwise you will have some hoppers soon.   they also like to eat carrots, lettuce and pea pods.  as for the price they range from like $6.00 to $15.00 depending on the size and breed. i payed $15.00 for my dumbo rat, $12.00 for my blue and $9.00 for my large fancy and $6.00 or my medium fancy.  they don't need regular vet care like shots or anything like that but they do get tumors easily so check their body over when you are handling them.  they should be handled every day so they get to trust you and you can teach them tricks like fetch.  as long as they eat and are active they are healthy.

hope this helps and good luck

Answer 6

heh, your cute....... Oh.. right umm pet rat.

Well first you need a place to keep your furry friend. You can use a glass aquarium, or you can buy a cage at your local pet shop. Yuor going to need proper bedding.. also availibe at your pet shop, a bag/box of feed... you guessed it at your petshop, also a bowl to keep the food in.. some little things for it to hide in and other trinkets for its home. and also you will need a waterbottle, these generally hang from the side of the tank with a metal tube coming out of the bottom, thats where they drink from... let me know how things go!

Answer 7

well all you need to do is put a toy in a cage with water and food.they shouldnt cost no more than 50 dollars.to find out if they are healthy make an appointment with the vet .you the vet and the person who sells the rat should discuss health issues.ask for that before you buy it

Answer 8

The most important thing is that rats are very social animals, they need the company of other rats. So you should get two because you're not going to be with the rat 24 hours a day. You'll find rats are much happier if there are other rats.

Maybe sure you get a hammock for him, rat food AND rodent lab blocks and stuff to chew on. The bigger the cage the better. Check out martins cages.

Answer 9

If you want to get a pet rat first off you need to understand that pet rats are extremely social. You need to get two and I would suggest 2 of the same s*x or you will have babies. 2 rats are no more to take care of then one.

They need a suitable sized house. One that is ventilated. Aquariums are ok but dont get very good ventilation. A good cage for 2 rats would be like a guinea pig or rabbit starter kit. Although most rats that are sold in petstores are babies so you will need a cage that the bar spacing is so tiny they wont be able to get there head through it. They will need a food bowl, I also suggest getting a glass water bottle. They cant chew it and if you get plastic you will go through a lot of water bottles. I feed my girls vegetarian dog food for older dogs because the protein content in the food isnt high. The rat mix that the stores sell isnt good for them. They can eat the rat lab blocks but if you get them and they will eat them you want to look and make sure the lab blocks dont consist mainly of corn. You need to supplement there diet with fruits and vegetables:The most common thing to add to your rat's diet are fresh vegetables and fruits. Broccoli, peas, green beans, carrots, tomatoes, bananas, cherries, whatever. I can't think of any vegetable I've offered them that they didn't like, although there are some (like asparagus) that they will only eat for about a day.

Rats like toilet paper rolls, anything that they can hide in. You dont need to buy anything just take old boxes and cut holes in them and then put them in the cage. They like the wooden hanging bird toys. My girls like the plastic cat balls to chase around.

Prices:

Prices will vary on them. The petshop that I have gotten mine from are $15 because they are a certain variety. I have gotten rex's, dumbos and blaze birkshires. Other petstores that sell them where they are just labled as rats only charge like $5 for them. Usually in this instance they are used as feeders.

Making sure your rat is healthy:

Rats arent like dogs and cats. They dont need shots and only have to go when they are sick. Rats that are sick can be hunched up with fur standing up, popherin(red staining that is secreted by the eyes)on and around the eyes and nose, labored breathing, wheezing. Here is a list:

In upper respiratory disease, signs may range from clinically silent to early signs of sneezing, snuffling, squinting, and porphyrin staining (rust colored) around eyes and nose. Inner ear infection may also be seen with signs of head tilt, rolling, and face or ear rubbing.

As disease advances along the respiratory passages causing bronchiolitis, bronchiectasis and bronchopneumonia, the signs may include rattling moist breath sounds, labored breathing, gasping, chattering, and coughing. Additional signs of illness are: hunched posturing with rough coat, weight loss, and changes in behavior due to illness (e.g. nipping, biting, avoidance).

In genital infections, the organism may be a cause of pyometra or purulent endometritis (inflammation of the lining of the uterus), salpingitis (inflammation of fallopian tubes), and perioophoritis (inflammation of ovaries). The signs may range from clinically inapparent symptoms to abdominal distention or signs of blood-tinged uterine discharge. Hematuria (blood tinged urine) from a concurrent urinary tract infection may also be present.

Where chronic uterine infections are attributed to Mycoplasma, decreased litter sizes may also result.

The rat heath guide has helped me out more times than I can help with my girls. I forgot to tell you about bedding. Carefresh, Yesterdays News and Soft Sorbant are all good brands for pet rats and do not cause respitory infections. Do not use aspen, pine or ceder. These will give your babies respitory infections of the worse kind. When you go to get your rat from the store look for a rat that has clear bright eyes, no hunched posture, nose that is clear with no popherin staining, and put your hand in the cage and see which rat comes up to you first. I have always picked my rats like this and have never had problems with biters. Good luck with your new rat and I hope I gave you all the info that you needed.

Answer 10

instead of a pet rat, how about a hamster? i have a robo hamster, and she's just soooo adorable and cute.

anyways, im pretty sure that a pet rat needs a wheel, a big enough cage, a hideout house where he can sleep in or hide, two separate bowls for food and water, and a type of bedding. My robo uses an aspen type bedding.

as for the food, you can feed him carrots, letuce, actually any veggies would do, you could also feed him store bought food from pet stores. Never feed your pet chocolate or any sweet since it might make them diabetic!

i dont know about the price range but my hamster was $15 from pets mart. as for the vet, mine was vet assured already.

to determine if your pet is healthy, look at its p**p. its p**p should not be liquidy and too green. if thats the case, then he has diarrhea. also, look at his tail. if it's wet, then that's wet tail. look at his eyes, his eyes must be "sparkly" and a little bit moist. he should not be losing any fur-meaning no bald spot and raw skin. if your pet has any of these symptoms, bring him to the vet ASAP. there should be a vet at any pet store.