Red tailed boa wont eat?

Question

I have a 5 1/2 ft. red tailed boa and I've had it for about a month, but it wont eat. any suggestions on how to get it to eat. Ive been trying to feed it live rats and dead, neither work so far.

Answer 1

a month is getting to that point where there may be something wrong. I would go back to the person or store you got it from first and get some information like the last time it had ate, what type of food they fed it, how often they fed it, etc. Also check your temperatures and make sure that is correct. If it is too cold it may be going into a hibernation. A vet or other professional would be another or last option.  

Answer 2

hello, i wouldn't worry too much about it. my Red Tail once refused to eat for 3 months! everything was fine and normal she just refused to eat. some things you could try to do:

1) feed him in late evening after the sun goes down

2) make sure it is dark in his tank/feeding tub and he is not being bothered. you can do this by placing a towel over his cage/feeding tub and place him in a quiet area if hes not all ready in one.

3) leave the rat in his enclosure all nite

4) make sure the rat being fed is propper size (as big as the thickest part of his body)

5) remember that snakes are less likey to eat if they are going through shed.

snakes can go awhile without food so don't stress out too much. (im not saying you should feed your snake every three months im just letting you know it wont kill them) if he still hasnt eaten after 3-6 months (or when he starts losing a significant amount of weight, which ever comes first), I'd get him checked out by a herp vet, only because the person who sold him to you might have been lying about  his health and he could probably have parasites etc... GOOD LUCK! :)

Answer 3

The most common reason for failure to feed is because the reptile isn't set up with the proper environment. "Environment" is the specifics of lighting, temperatures, humidity, furnishings, size, design and layout, and photo-periods. If any of these things are wrong for the species, it can cause reduction in appetite or a complete failure to feed. The most common environmental problem is wrong temperatures, either too hot or too cold. Shedding and health issues can be a factor as well. An individual should be active and responsive to handling, and which feels strong and muscular. Animals which show loose folds of skin along the body (dehydration); lumps along the body; signs of external parasites such as ticks or mites (look closely around the mouth, eyes, and cloaca); signs of runny or bloody f***s in the tank (internal parasites), any discharge of mucus from the mouth, nose, or eyes may be unhealthy.vA visit to a veterinarian is recommended for general check up and a fecal exam to detect internal parasites.

Diet – Boas devour a variety of prey in the wild - amphibians, lizards, other snakes, birds and mammals. In captivity, they should be fed pre-killed mice, rats and, when adults, rabbits and chickens. Juveniles should be feed after their fist shedding, 1 appropriate sized mouse or rat(pinkies,fuzzies,hoppers) twice week (3-4 days). Adults should be fed 1-2 appropriate sized prey items once a week to every 14 days. Appropriate size is matching the prey to the girth (largest / fattest part) of the snake. Be sure to provide constant fresh clean water.

If it takes the prey but won't eat, or won't take it, drop the mouse inside, and swathe the enclosure with towels to block the snake from seeing anybody or anything and leave it alone for 24 hours(never leave your snake unattended if feeding live).

Try multicolored or colored mice. There are no albino mice in the wild - at least, not enough for any animal to imprint on them.

Feed at night, not during the day.

Dip the prekilled mouse in warmed chicken broth.

Cut open the skull with a razor blade(known as Braining) or just above the nose.

Housing – While young boas can be housed in small enclosures, you must be prepared to provide a much larger enclosure for an adult. The rule here is “the bigger, the better.” Ideally, you should provide an enclosure at least 6’L X 2’W X 2’H. The idea is to provide your animal with enough room to stretch out, and for a temperature range within its environment. Adult common and red tailed boas should not be kept in fish tanks!! You will need to provide a water dish large enough for the entire snake to soak in, some form of hiding space such as cork bark or a hide box, and some climbing branches will be readily utilized by these snakes. You can use paper, outdoor carpeting, cypress or aspen mulch,coconut fiber,alfalfa (rabbit) pellets, even potting soil that does not contain perlite as a substrate. Irregardless of what substrate you use, it is vital that you keep it clean.

Note: Alfalfa pellets are great becuase it is cheap, safe if ingested, and still has some what of natural apperance.

Hiding Place

A hiding place should be provided for Boas. A half-log (available at pet stores), an empty cardboard box or upside-down opaque plastic container, both with an access doorway cut into one end, can also be used. The plastic is easily cleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed out when soiled and replaced with a new one. Many Boas enjoy hanging out on branches; provide clean branches big enough to support the Boa's weight. If you use a found branch, soak first in the bleach/water solution, then clean water to thoroughly rinse; place in cage only when completely dry. If you use rocks and bricks to construct a cave, be sure to affix them firmly in place. Boas are very strong, and can easily topple such a structure when moving about. When the rocks tumble on the snake, severe injuries may result.

Lighting and Heating:

Your boa will need a source of daytime lighting which can be provided by using a reptile daytime spot light. This will also provide a source of heat and a basking spot. You may also wish to provide a nighttime bulb or ceramic heater to maintain the temperature at night without the bright light which would disturb the snake at night. Do not use a white light at night! You should provide an overall enclosure temperature of 80-85°F with a basking spot around 95°F. Night time temperatures can drop to 75-80°F. If using light bulbs for heat, be sure that they are placed in such a way that the snake cannot contact any hot surfaces. You can also provide heat through under tank heaters and specialty reptile heating platforms. Be sure to use a thermoregulator to allow for better control over the temperature. The heated area does need to be large enough for the entire snake to bask. A small spot of heat will not be enough for a large snake.

NOTE: UVb for boas is usually considered unnecessary but I still recommend it. I use full spectrum plant & aquarium fluorescent bulbs and/or 2.0 fluorescent reptile bulbs -these provide very low levels of UVa & UVb. I like to provide a light gradient and let the snake regulate itself just as it does for tempature.

Humidity: The common boas require a high relative humidity around 55%-75%. Maintaining this level of humidity will help to avoid illnesses and also aid the snake in shedding properly.

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